Noob questions.

[Discount Bassy]

Howdy. I am starting to think pretty hard about getting a kit, very likely used. I am new to the drumming business, but not to music. I play/have gigged playing electric bass (5 string and fretless 6), baritone saxophone, flute, keys and clarinet. I've lived in a few situations where there was a drum kit upon which to tap, but never had a chance to really get down to much other than keeping straight time and fooling around. I'm finally in a situation where I can manage to get my own kit and spend some time learning. So...where do I start with used drum options? Brands? Things to look for? I can belly up north of a grand into this investment, but not much more. I'd like to stick to the basic kit, putting off cymbals other than a high hat and maybe even delay the ride for a while. Learn me up.

 

[C. Dave Run]

Anything that says Pearl, Tama, Yamaha, PDP, DW, Sonor, Premier, Mapex, or any of the name brands. Manufacturing is to the point where everyone makes good drums. Really just find something pretty you like then research it.

Cymbals are personal, I'm not suggesting anything. One man's clang is another man's grail.

 

[Discount Bassy]

Anything that says Pearl, Tama, Yamaha, PDP, DW, Sonor, Premier, Mapex, or any of the name brands. Manufacturing is to the point where everyone makes good drums. Really just find something pretty you like then research it.

Cymbals are personal, I'm not suggesting anything. One man's clang is another man's grail.

Thanks. I'm looking at a Pearl Export shell kit from a local fellow in the next couple of days. As far as cymbals go, other than the high-hat and a decent ride, it is all clatter to my ears...but maybe I've just not heard the right cymbals yet.

 

[Bo Eder]

I would not just blow off your cymbal choices at this time. You can go even cheaper on the drums and hardware, but get good cymbals because you can’t make those sound “pro” later, so you just have to start there - otherwise you spend more $$$ in the long run because you’ll end up replacing anything cheap you’ve bought. So stick to Zildjian A’s, Sabian AA’s, Paiste 2002’s, or Meinl Classics if you’re gonna just pick cymbals off a rack. The A’s and 2002’s are most likely what you’ve heard on countless hit recordings, so just stay in those models and you’ll be at least covered with decent sounds. They also make nice pre-packaged sets if you’re really at a loss on what to choose.

 

[cbphoto]

Just make sure you enjoy the finish of the kit. As strange as it seems, the kit’s looks do help one enjoy the instrument.

Some purchasing thoughts for a noob:

• Lesser priced kits will use cheaper metal fittings. Thinner gauge hoops are used.
• If looking at buying a wrapped kit (usually a type of vinyl, used instead of paint), check the seams along the shell and especially at the bearing edge. Look for delaminating and/or large, low bubbles.
• Check the bearing edges if the drum looks trashed. That means removing the drumhead. Most common problem: delaminating plies.
• If the heads need replacing, expect to spend USD$150–$250.
• When evaluating hardware, consider ease of placement, maneuverability and sturdiness.

 

[Discount Bassy]

I would not just blow off your cymbal choices at this time. You can go even cheaper on the drums and hardware, but get good cymbals because you can’t make those sound “pro” later, so you just have to start there - otherwise you spend more $$$ in the long run because you’ll end up replacing anything cheap you’ve bought. So stick to Zildjian A’s, Sabian AA’s, Paiste 2002’s, or Meinl Classics if you’re gonna just pick cymbals off a rack. The A’s and 2002’s are most likely what you’ve heard on countless hit recordings, so just stay in those models and you’ll be at least covered with decent sounds. They also make nice pre-packaged sets if you’re really at a loss on what to choose.

I putting off the cymbals at this point mainly because I don't really like the sound of cymbals in general. Maybe that is verboten drum-speak, but the only cymbal sounds I really dig are the high hat and ride used more in the context of keeping rhythm. I saw that the fellow with the shell kit did have a 20" Zildjian ride and 14" high-hats for sale, priced reasonably. Fishing around the band community, the guy has been mentioned in a positive light by several folks I used to perform with, so if all goes well, I may be asking a different set of questions after Friday.

 

[Discount Bassy]

Just make sure you enjoy the finish of the kit. As strange as it seems, the kit’s looks do help one enjoy the instrument.

Some purchasing thoughts for a noob:

• Lesser priced kits will use cheaper metal fittings. Thinner gauge hoops are used.
• If looking at buying a wrapped kit (usually a type of vinyl, used instead of paint), check the seams along the shell and especially at the bearing edge. Look for delaminating and/or large, low bubbles.
• Check the bearing edges if the drum looks trashed. That means removing the drumhead. Most common problem: delaminating plies.
• If the heads need replacing, expect to spend USD$150–$250.
• When evaluating hardware, consider ease of placement, maneuverability and sturdiness.

Any recommendation for heads? I was told I'd likely need at least a few uppers. Is it common to sheath a kit in a uniform brand/model of heads or do folks to drum specific to their tastes? Noob as I am, I am not wise to the ways of ported vs. un-ported bass drums and the general basics of proper tuning procedures.

 

[GretschedHive]

As far as cymbals go, other than the high-hat and a decent ride, it is all clatter to my ears...but maybe I've just not heard the right cymbals yet.

I find this really interesting. If you've gigged a fair amount, and it sounds like you have, then I assume you've also heard a decent variety of cymbals and that, for whatever reason, they just don't appeal to you.

Wait...are you Peter Gabriel [circa 1980]?! (Or Robert Fripp [circa 1981]?)

Any recommendation for heads? I was told I'd likely need at least a few uppers. Is it common to sheath a kit in a uniform brand/model of heads or do folks to drum specific to their tastes? Noob as I am, I am not wise to the ways of ported vs. un-ported bass drums and the general basics of proper tuning procedures.

Most people put the same make and model heads on the batter (upper) side of the toms, but something different on the snare (and perhaps bass/kick drum).

 

[Discount Bassy]

I find this really interesting. If you've gigged a fair amount, and it sounds like you have, then I assume you've also heard a decent variety of cymbals and that, for whatever reason, they just don't appeal to you.
Wait...are you Peter Gabriel [circa 1980]?! (Or Robert Fripp [circa 1981]?)

I've played with a bunch of different folks, good and bad with gear to match (not always matching good players to good gear or vice versa) and rarely have I heard a crash cymbal that I like or look to hear. I can definitely say I have a preference for hearing larger rides to smaller. The sweetest ride I can relate was a 24" Zildjian a friend picked up as an upgrade to a 21" and I really liked the sound...when tapped, not slammed. It might be something about the transient of the cymbal crash. I like the sound of cymbals played with mallets, notably swells, just not the explosive kablang business. I play a bit of guitar, but only really like the sound of my PRS baritone and not so much up in the higher end of the neck. When I play flute, I generally steer clear of the shrill side of things. Of note, I do dig Peter Gabriel and Robert Fripp. To be completely honest, I prefer rims shots and de-snared snares as well.

 

[GretschedHive]

I've played with a bunch of different folks, good and bad with gear to match (not always matching good players to good gear or vice versa) and rarely have I heard a crash cymbal that I like or look to hear. I can definitely say I have a preference for hearing larger rides to smaller. The sweetest ride I can relate was a 24" Zildjian a friend picked up as an upgrade to a 21" and I really liked the sound...when tapped, not slammed. It might be something about the transient of the cymbal crash. I like the sound of cymbals played with mallets, notably swells, just not the explosive kablang business. I play a bit of guitar, but only really like the sound of my PRS baritone and not so much up in the higher end of the neck. When I play flute, I generally steer clear of the shrill side of things. Of note, I do dig Peter Gabriel and Robert Fripp. To be completely honest, I prefer rims shots and de-snared snares as well.

You might want to check out some dry and/or dark cymbals, if you have the opportunity.

 

[Discount Bassy]

You might want to check out some dry and/or dark cymbals, if you have the opportunity.

Thanks for the heads up. I just got off the phone with a friend I haven't played with for 20 years and picked his brain a bit. I liked the sound of his kit in general and he noted that at the time, he was using darker cymbals and heads that he had purchased as an experiment, but didn't like so much. I really dug them. To each their own, I suppose.

 

[Bo Eder]

I putting off the cymbals at this point mainly because I don't really like the sound of cymbals in general. Maybe that is verboten drum-speak, but the only cymbal sounds I really dig are the high hat and ride used more in the context of keeping rhythm. I saw that the fellow with the shell kit did have a 20" Zildjian ride and 14" high-hats for sale, priced reasonably. Fishing around the band community, the guy has been mentioned in a positive light by several folks I used to perform with, so if all goes well, I may be asking a different set of questions after Friday.

Cool. If it works out then it works out

 

[Rhythm666]

Howdy. I am starting to think pretty hard about getting a kit, very likely used. I am new to the drumming business, but not to music. I play/have gigged playing electric bass (5 string and fretless 6), baritone saxophone, flute, keys and clarinet. I've lived in a few situations where there was a drum kit upon which to tap, but never had a chance to really get down to much other than keeping straight time and fooling around. I'm finally in a situation where I can manage to get my own kit and spend some time learning. So...where do I start with used drum options? Brands? Things to look for? I can belly up north of a grand into this investment, but not much more. I'd like to stick to the basic kit, putting off cymbals other than a high hat and maybe even delay the ride for a while. Learn me up.

whats your budget?

 

[Discount Bassy]

whats your budget?

All said and done, I'd like to be under $1k.

 

[Supergrobi]

What kind of music are you going to play?

Keep in mind that you'd want to swap heads immediately which might be another 80-100 bucks. If you like it mellow look out for some 15" hats instead of 14". Paiste 602 are great but also quite expensive, maybe 300-350 used. Same for a decent 24" ride, both will be keepers. Cymbals can't be tuned nor upgraded, just replaced, so don't go too low on them. As already stated - get some used shells with hardware for around 250-300 bucks (one rack tom, one floor tom, bass drum and snare), those and the hardware can be replaced piece by piece easily later. Also what you hear from a drum set is mainly the heads, not so much the shells.

 

[Supergrobi]

Take a look into the comment section.

 

[BGDurham]

Just to stir things up a bit, this complete set is available via Craigslist somewhere near your location.

 

[C. Dave Run]

Thanks. I'm looking at a Pearl Export shell kit from a local fellow in the next couple of days. As far as cymbals go, other than the high-hat and a decent ride, it is all clatter to my ears...but maybe I've just not heard the right cymbals yet.

Exports are good. Numerous people, including myself, have owned or still own Exports.

Using your profile info, I perused your local CL. Not sure how far you are willing to drive, but there are a few good deals.

This cant be beat for $100. Its everything you need to get started:

PEARL DRUM SET COMPLTETE ONLY $100 - musical instruments - by owner...

Excellent Condition FULL Pearl Drum Set only $100 - Hurry will go fast! Pickup Only. Thanks Happy Holidays

philadelphia.craigslist.org

Another good option:

Ludwig Complete Drum Set - musical instruments - by owner - sale

Ludwig Accent GS Custom 5 piece drum set with added seat, sticks and case for some drums. Son moved out so not using.

philadelphia.craigslist.org

Not sure if hardware/cymbals are included:

Natal Drum Kit - musical instruments - by owner - sale

Natal Drum Kit Stealth DNA UF22 Configuration Color- Black Metallic 10”x 8” rack tom, 12” x 9” rack tom, 22” x 16” base drum, 16” x 16” floor tom, 14” x 5.5” snare drum. Only used for a couple of...

philadelphia.craigslist.org

Ay dios mio yalls CL is gear whore boner central! Anyone need to kill an hour? Look at all this good stuff:

Musical Instruments "drum" near Baltimore, MD - craigslist

Musical Instruments "drum" near Baltimore, MD - craigslist

baltimore.craigslist.org

 

[cbphoto]

Any recommendation for heads? I was told I'd likely need at least a few uppers. Is it common to sheath a kit in a uniform brand/model of heads or do folks to drum specific to their tastes? Noob as I am, I am not wise to the ways of ported vs. un-ported bass drums and the general basics of proper tuning procedures.

I’m an Evans fan, so I’d start out with Evans coated G1 batter heads over Evans clear Genera resonant heads. Evans EQ3 batter on the bass drum with an Evan EQ3 ported reso head.

The Evans G1 is a single ply of 10 mil mylar. Remo makes an equivalent model: the Ambassador. Aquarian makes the “Texture Coated” series that is also a single-ply 10 mil design.

You can’t go wrong with any of these brands.

For the sake of generating a homogenous sound from the toms, I’d stick to only one make & model of drumhead.

 

[Discount Bassy]

I've been listening to different cymbals more carefully and there are more distinctions to the sounds that I had ever realized. Listening to 15" vs 14" hi-hats was notable, the same with rides of varying sizes and brightness. The other thing that struck me was evaluating the sound of a cymbal by itself versus how it nests in the mix of the kit while played. The same goes for heads. I had never realized all of the variables associated with a kit's sound. The lesson seems to be to listen and evaluate and the choice is personal. Also, the first kit is not the end all kit. This purchase is an entry point.

I went through a similar learning curve with other instruments, but with less variables. I bought a beater bass years ago, learned to play and then gigged out with a minimal setup. The job was done and over time I learned where the instrument seemed to lack. In the end, I knew I wanted more range/strings, liked the sound of active pickups versus the passives that I had and wanted something that didn't need constant adjustments to the neck (I lived just south of Death Valley at the time and the humidity/temperature swing was unreal). I went for a graphite neck. Once I found the strings I liked, I was set and haven't really changed anything in years. The only real change in preference was wanting one more string and a fretless timbre option. My learning curve was pretty quick, but not cheap.

For my woodwinds, I was looking for a combination of sound, but keeping serviceability in mind. Most winds are basically musical typewriters. Things wear out, break and need fixed. It is good to be able to get parts and not be at a loss for repair information or assistance. I went for established brands with model lines that held up over time.

I appreciate all of the information and opinions that I am receiving on something I know little about.