Wow, I just safely and completely unyellowed my WMP

Brian said:
What exactly will happen if 50's Leedy/Ludwig's or a '65 Ludwig tom are treated with this? I may try it just for fun, since the drums are worth nearly nothing.
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What.......how damaged are they if you think they're worth nothing?A 65 Ludwig tom in decent condition,depending on the finish,can go from 150-450.,maybe even more.

Steve B
 
Brian said:
No I only saw your pictures, but the drums look good if not great. I'm definitely interested, will bump this thread in the near future most likely. ;) I have a mid 50's 13" tom that is missing a couple pieces, collecting dust and it's actually very yellowed..perfect test rat!
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Don't do it Brian! The older wraps (up until the late 60s) used a different kind of plastic and will probably react very badly with the retrobrite solution.
 
tamadrm said:
What.......how damaged are they if you think they're worth nothing?A 65 Ludwig tom in decent condition,depending on the finish,can go from 150-450.,maybe even more.

Steve w
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I have a 65 wmp Ludwig that a drum shop wouldn't offer anything. Great shape, all original parts.
 
FWIW, I used alot more gel than what you have shown in the pic. I am also assuming you made the retrobrite correctly, following the recipe exactly. You did use the peroxide at 10 to 15% strength right? (I got 35% peroxide and diluted it with distilled water) The 3% peroxide you buy in the store isn't strong enough. You also used the Oxy-Clean, right? pretty important step. I put the gel on much thicker than you have pictured and I also rewetted it alot with a spray bottle that contained distilled water and some Oxy-clean dissolved in it. I let it sit out in the sun all day. I repeated the procedure the next day and turned the shaded side so it was in direct sunlight, just to be sure I got full coverage.
 
At your urging I tried some of this on my Standards that have turned green from yellowing. There was very little change after two applications unfortunately. I will try again in a couple of weeks... followed the instructions to make my own and no dice =\
 
alparrott said:
At your urging I tried some of this on my Standards that have turned green from yellowing. There was very little change after two applications unfortunately. I will try again in a couple of weeks... followed the instructions to make my own and no dice =\
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Al tell me exactly what you did.
 
larryace said:
Al tell me exactly what you did.
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Went with this guy's instructions to make the liquid version:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/66071596@N00/3822230561

Mixed the peroxide and OxiClean together as per his proportions. Applied it to the wrap with a rag, nice and sudsy. all over. Left in direct sunlight for an hour, with exposure to all sides but the most yellowed side directly towards the sun. After an hour, reapplied and repeated. Wiped off with a damp rag. Almost no discernable deyellowing, although the areas under the lugs where there was no yellowing look great now.
 
Al, the method I did called for like 18 hours of sunlight. And 15% peroxide, not 3%. I bought 35% peroxide at a natural foods store and diluted it down to 15% with distilled water.

The original website is not there anymore. But the above statement I recall perfectly.
 
larryace said:
Al, the method I did called for like 18 hours of sunlight. And 15% peroxide, not 3%. I bought 35% peroxide at a natural foods store and diluted it down to 15% with distilled water.

The original website is not there anymore. But the above statement I recall perfectly.
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OK. I think I'll wait for this summer and try again - 18 hours of sunlight easy. Thanks for the pointer.
 
From an earlier post:

"It's basically 15% peroxide supercharged by just the tiniest bit of oxy-clean, with ingredients to make it into a gel so it sticks".

Then you just stick it in the sun, turning it every 3 hours or so to get direct UV on all parts of the shell. I rewetted the gel when it dried in the sun with a spray bottle that contained water with some oxyclean dissolved in it, not much.

I did the treatment twice, but it only needed one time. I always overdo stuff.

Don't add the Oxyclean until right before you want to use it.
Don't cover it after adding the Oxyclean because it expands.
You can prepare the other stuff ahead of time, the xantham gum, glycerin and the 15% peroxide. Definitely dilute your peroxide with distilled water, or the peroxide will be wasted cleaning the water. Don't get 35% peroxide on you, it will burn you. Safety glasses recommended.

The original website I found the info from is gone.
 
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larryace said:
From an earlier post:

"It's basically 15% peroxide supercharged by just the tiniest bit of oxy-clean, with ingredients to make it into a gel so it sticks".

Then you just stick it in the sun, turning it every 3 hours or so to get direct UV on all parts of the shell. I rewetted the gel when it dried in the sun with a spray bottle that contained water with some oxyclean dissolved in it, not much.

I did the treatment twice, but it only needed one time. I always overdo stuff.

Don't add the Oxyclean until right before you want to use it.
Don't cover it after adding the Oxyclean because it expands.
You can prepare the other stuff ahead of time, the xantham gum, glycerin and the 15% peroxide. Definitely dilute your peroxide with distilled water, or the peroxide will be wasted cleaning the water. Don't get 35% peroxide on you, it will burn you. Safety glasses recommended.

The original website I found the info from is gone.
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Do these guidelines look close to what was said on the original site you posted? http://www.retr0bright.com/make.html
 
Right on! I might try this on a champagne tom that I think has been ginger-aled. Now to convince the girlfriend to let me use our new blender.
 
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