Pearl masters mcx heads and tuning?

Duck Tape

Duck Tape

Platinum Member
Hi guys,

I just picked up this pearl masters mcx in chestnut fade. It was a church kit and took a few superficial knocks and scrapes but I’ve cleaned it, replaced all the heads and it is looking pretty tidy, besides the reso head (got one on order).

I am thinking of taking it out because my stage custom isn’t cutting through quite as well since I’m on a louder gig.

Anyway I’ve put Aquarian classic clear heads as resos and Evan’s g2 coated as batter heads and I notice it has a pretty short sustain, I’d heard that in the videos I’ve watched online but I thought it was just the way they had tuned them.

I actually really like them but let’s say I wanted more sustain from them, would I have been wiser to choose clear batter heads? Or tune them a certain way?

Or maybe it’s just the die case hoops and the coated heads subduing them. Not complaining at all, just wanted some other impressions and tips about the kit.

99F9E622-8EE4-4552-BB7D-AE5999C3E3CE.jpeg

4520A9A5-8093-46E5-9C77-7752CA96D1E7.jpeg
 
That's a nice kit!

You might want to experiment with 2.3mm triple-flanged hoops. It could open up the toms a little more. Die-cast hoops tend to dry up and focus the tone, and going with triple-flanged could increase the sustain.

Your head choice is great...although G1s will have a little more resonance/sustain to them than G2s. But it may not make sense for your louder gig, depending on how hard you hit.

As far as the Coated vs Clear debate, I don't think there's a meaningful difference in resonance between the two.
 
Maybe try something like the ec2/pinstripe? They will tighten up some of the overtones like a coated G2 but they are more more "slappy" and present.
 
Artstar said:
Hello I owned quite a few of the Masters and Sessions with those mounts. Before you spend any money try pulling those tom arm pipes OUT of the receiving brackets as much as you can and then clamp down hard... then play them and see if you notice anything.
Click to expand...
Good call, definitely not the first time I've heard this trick and usually leads to some degree of success
 
roncadillac said:
Good call, definitely not the first time I've heard this trick and usually leads to some degree of success
Click to expand...

Any of my drums with a pipe or rod going in a bracket it helped .. I did it on the Pearl stuff as well as the 90's Sonor drums using the pipes, but mostly the old Yamaha stuff with the brackets bolted on the shells it would really open those up.

His might have minimal effect but it is worth trying before spending money on heads.
 
Remo's and absolutely leave the die cast on.
Coated Amby's..

evans are too "perfect" rem's give a little leeway to tones

that set is a straight shell right (no rings) right.
 
Try triple flanged hoops and Evans G1 10 mil clear or just 7 mil reso heads. Evans has black reso heads and white coated in 7 mil. I have the black on my Birch Tama Kit and the Sustain is really long. I have G2 over G1 all clear on my walnut birch kit (Tama of course) and the sustain is about 8 seconds on the 16 " tom and about 6 seconds on the 12".
 
Last edited:
Artstar said:
Hello I owned quite a few of the Masters and Sessions with those mounts. Before you spend any money try pulling those tom arm pipes OUT of the receiving brackets as much as you can and then clamp down hard... then play them and see if you notice anything.
Click to expand...
A huge reason why i will never buy Pearl. Ive heard those arms are not great for resonance. Tama all the way
 
Hey Duck Tape,

Congratulations on your new (to you) Pearl Masters MCX kit in classy Chestnut Fade!

The shells are 6 stellar plies of Maple goodness, along with a 45° baring edges, die cast rims, and OptiMount hardware.
I'm currently running clear Evans EC2s as my batters, and clear Remo Ambassadors as my resos on my Masters Custom Extra MRX kit. I try to tune them equally (top and bottom) for maximum sustain.

If I may suggest something. I noticed in the first pic that you posted, that when I zoomed in close to take a good look at your kit, I saw something with the placement/positioning of your OptiMounts upon the actual tom shells themselves.

Now, there has been a debate over the years as to the correct positioning of one's OptiMounts back on the old Pearl Forum. I'll try to explain how I have mine set up as an example, but you can always experiment with them to see if you like something else. The main adjustment bolt on the vertical part of the bars can be loosened in order to allow for different shell heights. You do not want the rubber grommets (at the top and bottom of the OptiMount) touching any part of the die cast hoops at all if possible. That in and of itself could kill some of the tom's sustain and resonance, and could even affect its tuning.

I set them so that they (the rubber grommets) are completely covering the brass inserts of the four lugs that the OptiMount is attached to, and just ever so touching the actual body of the lug itself. It shouldn't be "death lock" tight, but slightly snug. Remember, those four points are holding the entire weight of the tom. Once you have them slightly snug, remember to tighten the main adjustment bolts so it doesn't come loose. Now, you can mount them back onto the tom arms. Do not let the tip of the tom arm touch the shell itself through the OptiMount.

Give these adjustments a try, so that your sweet new Pearl MCX toms can sing out like I know they should!
 
Last edited:
I’d lose the Optimount and try RIMS or order newer 2024 Pearl optimount. That should increase sustain.
 
RobertM said:
I’d lose the Optimount and try RIMS or order newer 2024 Pearl optimount. That should increase sustain.
Click to expand...
Try what you already have on there first.

Those OptiMounts work just fine if you adjust them properly.
You can always upgrade when funds permit, but there is no reason why these can't be adjusted to function properly.
 
Blk Diamond said:
Hey Duck Tape,

Congratulations on your new (to you) Pearl Masters MCX kit in classy Chestnut Fade!

The shells are 6 stellar plies of Maple goodness, along with a 45° baring edges, die cast rims, and OptiMount hardware.
I'm currently running Evans EC2s as my batters, and and Remo Ambassadors as my resos on my Masters Custom Extra MRX kit. I try to tune them equally (top and bottom) for maximum sustain.

If I may suggest something. I noticed in the first pic that you posted, that when I zoomed in close to take a good look at your kit, I saw something with the placement/positioning of your OptiMounts upon the actual tom shells themselves.

Now, there has been a debate over the years as to the correct positioning of one's OptiMounts back on the old Pearl Forum. I'll try to explain how I have mine set up as an example, but you can always experiment with them to see if you like something else. The main adjustment bolt on the vertical part of the bars can be loosened in order to allow for different shell heights. You do not want the rubber grommets (at the top and bottom of the OptiMount) touching any part of the die cast hoops at all if possible. That in and of itself could kill some of the tom's sustain and resonance, and could even affect its tuning.

I set them so that they (the rubber grommets) are completely covering the brass inserts of the four lugs that the OptiMount is attached to, and just ever so touching the actual body of the lug itself. It shouldn't be "death lock" tight, but slightly snug. Remember, those four points are holding the entire weight of the tom. Once you have them slightly snug, remember to tighten the main adjustment bolts so it doesn't come loose. Now, you can mount them back onto the tom arms. Do not let the tip of the tom arm touch the shell itself through the OptiMount.

Give these adjustments a try, so that your sweet new Pearl MCX toms can sing out like I know they should!
Click to expand...
Thanks, that’s insightful. I think I understand what I need to try and as you can see from this attached photo the rubber discs are all in contact with the hoops.

6DF1A4FD-16BE-4142-99E3-F20CCD444B92.jpeg

I couldn’t change hoops and mounts as suggested, that would cost me more than the kit cost me.
 
PorkPieGuy said:
Before doing anything, I'd carry them to a different room and see how they sound, and maybe have someone else hit them while you stand out front.
Click to expand...
He definitely needs to readjust those OptiMounts on his toms, so that they are not making contact with the hoops themselves.

Once that is done, then he can move on to the "fun and exciting worlds" of exploring different tuning options, and possibly selecting different heads.
 
Blk Diamond said:
He definitely needs to readjust those OptiMounts on his toms, so that they are not making contact with the hoops themselves.

Once that is done, then he can move on to the "fun and exciting worlds" of exploring different tuning options, and possibly selecting different heads.
Click to expand...

I've never dealt this Optimounts. Good call.
 
Duck Tape said:
Thanks, that’s insightful. I think I understand what I need to try and as you can see from this attached photo the rubber discs are all in contact with the hoops.

View attachment 143527

I couldn’t change hoops and mounts as suggested, that would cost me more than the kit cost me.
Click to expand...

Those are really pretty! The Masters MCX really caught my eye when they first came out. If I hadn't just bought a kit recently they would have been a contender for sure.

I also strongly recommend following Blk Diamond's great step-by-step instructions on the Optimounts. That should help quite a bit.

I would add that compared to triple flange hoops, die casts are a different sound for sure. You might need to make some adjustments to how you tune and select heads to bring out more sustain. In general I'd say a little thinner and a little higher should make those toms speak more clearly.
 
I did it to the 10”, adjusted the optimount as well as the position on the Tom arm.

If it made a difference it’s only fractional. I do have them tuned pretty low I guess. I think I’ll get a bit more sustain with a bit of a tweak up.

I’ll adjust the 12” when I dismantle the kit to fit the front kick head.

Maybe it is just the hoops though and I will get used to it. I love the kit though. It’s my first high end pearl.

Thanks all.
 
Duck Tape said:
Thanks, that’s insightful. I think I understand what I need to try and as you can see from this attached photo the rubber discs are all in contact with the hoops.

View attachment 143527

I couldn’t change hoops and mounts as suggested, that would cost me more than the kit cost me.
Click to expand...
Off topic, but looking at this picture I can understand why Pearl discontinued the Maple Session Custom line. This kit looks exactly like my own MSC kit (with the exception of the cast hoops) even down to the color which they call Chestnut Fade in this line(???). The Session Customs definitely offered the Masters too much competition as far as value goes.

Odd how this Chestnut Fade kit matches my Vintage Fade kit almost exactly, both of which look almost exactly like the current Cherry Amber Fade finish that's available.

I'd echo Blk Diamond's recommendation to tune the tom batter and resonant heads to the same pitch for maximum resonance, although there's no tuning configuration that I've tried on my set that they haven't been able to handle. Amazing drums. Congratulations!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top