motleyh
Senior Member
OK, a couple of things you might want to know as a future FF owner:
First, you can put pretty much any 14" diameter shell into the frame. A real FF shell doesn't have a bottom bearing edge -- the bottom edge is flat and rests on a "shelf" of the frame and the bottom edge of the frame has the snare-side bearing edge -- but a shell that has a bottom edge cut will still work. This means that you aren't limited to Pearl shells -- you can use other brands, make your own from Keller ply blanks, change to a stave shell, a steambent shell, even acrylics. If the shell you insert is thicker than the frame (like with a stave shell) it doesn't matter; the added thickness will be on the inside of the drum and it will still seat securely. (If you're using a previous snare shell that has holes and beds cut, they will act like additional vents and you will have a VERY dry drum.)
Again, the depth of the frame is about 1.5", so you can change depth depending on what size shell you use. If you put a 5" shell in, you'll have a 6.5" drum. If you put a 6.5" shell in, you'll have an 8" drum, etc.
Second, you can change the lugs when you change depth -- Pearl makes these lugs in 3 different lengths. But they also charge about $100 for a set of lugs. All you really need is longer tension rods, though, which are just a few dollars. My own FF is originally a 3.5" depth, so I can use different tension rods to make it any depth above that, for around $15 per depth. And when you do that, you also open up the possibility of really cranking that batter head, because the top hoop won't touch the lugs -- for those who tune that high.
First, you can put pretty much any 14" diameter shell into the frame. A real FF shell doesn't have a bottom bearing edge -- the bottom edge is flat and rests on a "shelf" of the frame and the bottom edge of the frame has the snare-side bearing edge -- but a shell that has a bottom edge cut will still work. This means that you aren't limited to Pearl shells -- you can use other brands, make your own from Keller ply blanks, change to a stave shell, a steambent shell, even acrylics. If the shell you insert is thicker than the frame (like with a stave shell) it doesn't matter; the added thickness will be on the inside of the drum and it will still seat securely. (If you're using a previous snare shell that has holes and beds cut, they will act like additional vents and you will have a VERY dry drum.)
Again, the depth of the frame is about 1.5", so you can change depth depending on what size shell you use. If you put a 5" shell in, you'll have a 6.5" drum. If you put a 6.5" shell in, you'll have an 8" drum, etc.
Second, you can change the lugs when you change depth -- Pearl makes these lugs in 3 different lengths. But they also charge about $100 for a set of lugs. All you really need is longer tension rods, though, which are just a few dollars. My own FF is originally a 3.5" depth, so I can use different tension rods to make it any depth above that, for around $15 per depth. And when you do that, you also open up the possibility of really cranking that batter head, because the top hoop won't touch the lugs -- for those who tune that high.