Repairing Roland SPD-S

Best case, 1

Worst case, 11

Some songs are as simple as triggering a rhythm guitar part during the instruments portion of the song. Some are simply verse chorus.

I have learned to make adjustments and usually I can limit it to 4 to 6 segments.

Generally I use pad 1 on the SPD for the song's intro. Easy enough. I also use pad 9 for a kill switch. Very important :)

On an easy/typical verse, chorus, bridge song, I can cover it with just three pads mounted on the right side.

I took on this project because 1) I couldn't find a reliable keyboard player and 2) the music we play (60's/70's/80's/90's classic rock/pop) has very basic drumming and I felt the need to do more. It's actually pretty simple. A lot of songs are repetitious and the backing parts start at the top of the measure which means you usually have a free hand at the time.
 
Hi, folks. New Tricks, if you haven't found a solution to your problem, I might venture a couple suggestions. You can use the pedal inputs in a couple different ways, and I think they can probably get you where you need to be. You can use fairly inexpensive pedals, all they need to be is a momentary switch. It sounds like I do a lot of what you're doing (calling up sequenced/sampled horns, keys, latin percussion, etc, to fill in blanks) and I use Boss FS-5Us. If simply using the pedals to trigger more sounds isn't enough, you can also program them (or pads, for that matter) to scroll up or down thru your various kits. If you really have that many unique sounds you need to call up during one song, spread it out over two kits, and use the pedal(s) and/or pad(s) to switch kits during the performance. I've also found that some passages, say a horn lick, will be shorter for the first time around, and longer later in the song. Sample the whole "long" passage, and set the pad or pedal you're using to trigger it to "ALT." When you need the "short" passage, trigger it, then hit that pad or pedal again to stop the playback at the appropriate time. When you need the longer passage, just go ahead and let it play out. The horn lines in Santana's "Smooth" would be one good example of how I use this method. Doing this, and/or switching kits mid-song should allow you to accomplish your goals, or at least get closer. Anyway, I'd think two external pads on each side of your drum kit, and two pedals in addition to the SPD-SX's pads should be plenty once you work out the logistics.

As for opening up the SPD-SX to attempt repairs, I recommend strongly against it. My headphone jack was starting to go a little wonky, so I thought I'd open 'er up and check it out since it was so relatively easy to replace the capacitors in the old SPD-S as explained in this thread. Wrong. The SPD-SX is much more difficult to get apart, and once I finally HAD to do it, I was in constant fear that I was going to damage the thing irreversibly. I had to do it because when I'd removed all the screws, the two pieces of the housing still didn't want to come apart. I shook and jiggled and peered and pried, and still no joy. I figured there must be another screw or something under the rubber pad piece, so I took that off to have a look. It's pretty easy to peel off, BUT DO NOT DO IT. There are no screws or latches under there, and once it's off, you HAVE to get the case apart to get it back on properly. It's held down by little rubber nibs that fit into holes in the casing. Pulling them out is no problem, but you cannot push them back thru the holes. You have to get the case apart and PULL them thru from the back side. I honestly don't know what was holding the case together, but I did manage to get it apart without breaking anything. The gain knob on the back is one impediment, but I still think there's more to it than that. Maybe it was just mine being a little extra sticky. Anyway, once you get the two pieces free from each other, you'll find that the PCB where the USB jacks reside is held on to the bottom casing with four screws, and ribbon cabled to the rest of the PCBs. I didn't want to risk damaging the ribbon cables, so I took out the screws, which was no mean feat with no more room than you have. And while I was in there, I saw that there are really no "old-school" thru-hole capacitors or other components. It's all surface-mount stuff which would be quite a challenge to replace or repair (at least for a novice to intermediate de-soldering guy, such as myself). I didn't see any obvious cold solder joints or anything amiss with the headphone jack, so I left it be, and put the SPD-SX back together carefully, after pulling the rubber niblets back into their holes to replace the rubber pad. I'd say it was a nightmare, and I will not undertake it again lightly. I apologize that I didn't take pictures, but I was getting down to the wire on having a show to play, and I'm currently using the SPD-SX as my whole kit, minus a couple cymbals. So while I was able to get an extra 6-8 months out of the trusty old SPD-S, I don't think the SPD-SX is going to be the same kind of story. And that's my story.

Special thanks to Fuzrock for getting me the aforementioned 6-8 months, and thanks to you all for reading my novella here. Hopefully it will save someone the headache and nerve-wracking ordeal I put myself through. And at least for the past couple shows, I haven't had any problems with the headphone jack. Knock on wood. lol

-Russ
 
Hi Fuzrock,

Thanks for the post. I am having the same noise issue with my Spds. I opened and sure enough, there are a few bulging capacitors. I hate to trouble you, any chance you coukd relay the part numbers for the capacitors and where you ordered the from? Other than contacting Roland, Im not sure where to start.

Thanks,
Brandon
 
Hi all!

First post here. I know this an old thread; hopefully someone can chime in and help me.

My SPD-S sat for a couple years and when I got it out it had the dreaded hiss. I found this post and did the repair, but admittedly am no pro. I struggled a bit with the desoldering, but I did manage.

I do not share your results and am seeking help with a resolution. My hiss went from a little steady white noise that was only audible when hooked to our P.A. to a more obnoxious version that can even be heard through headphones and rings awfully bad when patches are played like a bass boom.

So, thoughts? Do you think it's likely an issue with my soldering work, incorrect capacitor type, damage to PC board from desoldering battle, or?

I put in Electrolytic capacitors from digikey and had checked the box for an audio application when selecting them.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Hey Chef-beavis, if that is your real name, I am not sure that you will be able to fix your problem. I don't know much about electronic drums, pads, multi-pads, or the like, but the SPD-S is the only Roland unit I regularly see for $2-300 on the used market.
Every gigging drummer that I know who owns one loved it when it worked. They then cursed the day they bought it. We are on an island with extreme humidity and heat so ymmv.
 
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Hey Chef-beavis, if that is your real name, I am not sure that you will be able to fix your problem. I don't know much about electronic drums, pads, multi-pads, or the like, but the SPD-S is the only Roland unit I regularly see for $2-300 on the used market.
Every gigging drummer that I know who owns one loved it when it worked. They then cursed the day they bought it. We are on an island with extreme humidity and heat so ymmv.

I have no idea what ymmv means, but thanks for the reply. I love mine, yet, so hopefully someone can chime in and help. Mine was rock solid for many years and gigs. Who knew sitting would ruin it?
 
My SPD-S also sat for a while, and when I plugged it in, the volume was too low, and there was a static/hiss being emanated. The memory card was also not being read any longer. I am not sure what to do to fix it. I have bought a Yamaha DTX12 to take it's place, but I would hate to throw it out, but I also don't want to pay several hundred dollars to repair it. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
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