Chinese Maple vs. Canadian Maple vs. North American Maple?

[caddywumpus]

Here's my list of things that go into determining the sound of a drum, in APPROXIMATE order of the influence on the sound. Note that this is just MY general list, give or take a ranking -- somebody else might put these in a different order:
1. Heads & tuning
2. Shell material (wood vs. metal vs. acrylic, etc.)
3. Bearing edges
4. Dimensions
5. Shell thickness
6. Shell construction (ply vs. steambent vs. stave, etc.)
7. General wood density (soft vs. medium vs. hard)
8. Hoops
9. Mounting system
10. Wood species
11. Wood variety within species
12. Number of lugs
13. Type of lugs

That's a great list of factors. I would say that 10 and 11 are interchangeable, or not even needing to be split up into two separate categories. There is MUCH more of a difference between Asian maple and Sugar maple than there is between Sugar maple and Birch.

I'd also argue that number of lugs makes more of a difference in the sound than the type of wood, myself. In reality, the type of wood is far from the most important factor of a drum's sound, but it IS part of it, especially when you're obsessed with nuances of timbre (and timber--ha!!!)...

 

[DrumEatDrum]

Here's my list of things that go into determining the sound of a drum, in APPROXIMATE order of the influence on the sound. Note that this is just MY general list, give or take a ranking -- somebody else might put these in a different order:
1. Heads & tuning
2. Shell material (wood vs. metal vs. acrylic, etc.)
3. Bearing edges
4. Dimensions
5. Shell thickness
6. Shell construction (ply vs. steambent vs. stave, etc.)
7. General wood density (soft vs. medium vs. hard)
8. Hoops
9. Mounting system
10. Wood species
11. Wood variety within species
12. Number of lugs
13. Type of lugs

Awesome list.

I'm going to have to remember this one next time such a debate comes up.

 

[Winston_Wolf]

Awesome list.

I'm going to have to remember this one next time such a debate comes up.

I agree!

Even though I think we all might quibble with a ranking or two I think the most important thing we should take from a list like this is that there are a LOT of factors that all contribute to the overall sound of a drum.

And while a lot of construction factors might influence the sound one way or another the most important factors, and I'm thinking head choice, tuning, and playing style, have nothing to do with the drum itself.

 

[TwoCables]

Here's my list of things that go into determining the sound of a drum, in APPROXIMATE order of the influence on the sound. Note that this is just MY general list, give or take a ranking -- somebody else might put these in a different order:
1. Heads & tuning
2. Shell material (wood vs. metal vs. acrylic, etc.)
3. Bearing edges
4. Dimensions
5. Shell thickness
6. Shell construction (ply vs. steambent vs. stave, etc.)
7. General wood density (soft vs. medium vs. hard)
8. Hoops
9. Mounting system
10. Wood species
11. Wood variety within species
12. Number of lugs
13. Type of lugs

...so if you want to upgrade the sound, I'd suggest recutting the bearing edges before replacing the kit to get a different variety of maple. Yes, the harder wood will give you a noticeable change in the character of the sound, but great edges on cheap wood still sound really good. You can probably give your whole kit a huge step up for $150 or so.

Unfortunately, I've already had my bearing edges professionally re-cut (by Ellis Drum Shop). They did an outstanding job and the improvement was tremendous (and instantly noticeable even while tuning right after putting the heads back on). Plus, I've also retrofitted my toms with RIMS style mounts to replace the through-the-shell mounts. Additionally, I've tried several head combinations and different tunings.

So, I've already done everything that I can. It's just that I don't like their sound anymore (I'm kinda sick of it).

I thank you very sincerely, though. I am very grateful to you for making this list of variables!

 

[motleyh]

Unfortunately, I've already had my bearing edges professionally re-cut ... Plus, I've also retrofitted my toms with RIMS style mounts to replace the through-the-shell mounts. Additionally, I've tried several head combinations and different tunings.

You're right. Probably time to move on and up, then.

I did leave one important variable off the list. Different players can sometimes make drums sound different, simply because of playing technique and style. Seems like it shouldn't be true, but it is and it's a pretty significant factor. That's just a general comment, not directed to you. You need to match the kit to how you play, not vice versa.

 

[TwoCables]

You're right. Probably time to move on and up, then.

I did leave one important variable off the list. Different players can sometimes make drums sound different, simply because of playing technique and style. Seems like it shouldn't be true, but it is and it's a pretty significant factor. That's just a general comment, not directed to you. You need to match the kit to how you play, not vice versa.

Oh believe me, I'll try to once I'm able to replace the mid-level drums with high-end drums. But they'll be my first high end drums, so I may need to just use the purchase as a learning experience. But so far, I feel quite drawn to the Mapex Orions. So, I have a feeling that I might get those in 2-3 years.

 

[motleyh]

That's a great list of factors. I would say that 10 and 11 are interchangeable, or not even needing to be split up into two separate categories. There is MUCH more of a difference between Asian maple and Sugar maple than there is between Sugar maple and Birch.

No argument there.

I'd also argue that number of lugs makes more of a difference in the sound than the type of wood, myself. In reality, the type of wood is far from the most important factor of a drum's sound, but it IS part of it, especially when you're obsessed with nuances of timbre (and timber--ha!!!)...

At the end of the day, you're right, it is absolutely about the nuances. It's all these small factors that make up the sound (plus a few more in the case of a snare). That's why I always try to start a drum design with the sound I want to get to, and then get all these little things working together toward the same goal.

 

[Davo-London]

know why?
industry is a LOT bigger in china than the us...
why? cheap and good labour

why do you prefer buying a 100$ us made product, when you could be the exact same product made in china for 50% of the price? you trust the us labour more than the chinese

why? i include my self in this answer, we presume the us labour is better than the chinese, but do we even know how do the chinese do their thing? as far as im concerned, china has earned a good and big name in industry, and thats because of something (prime work)

This is the crux of a lot of fear relating to Chinese made products and some of the less scientific comments. I'm old. It used to be made in Japan that we joked about. Not any more. Don't confuse labour/manufacturing quality with wood quality.

The OP has raised a very good question.

Davo

 

[TwoCables]

I think I'll get my answer in 2-3 years when I think I'll be replacing the Meridian Maples (or whatever I get) with some top-quality 100% maple drums made from some species of North American maple. I realize I don't have to go with 100% maple in a top-quality set, but that's my dream as of today.

 

[RobertM]

I believe that Canadian Maple and North American Maple can mean the same thing. Many builders who use the phrase "North American Maple" are often using maple from Canada.

Some use the phrase USA "Rock Maple," I believe.

 

[TwoCables]

I believe that Canadian Maple and North American Maple can mean the same thing. Many builders who use the phrase "North American Maple" are often using maple from Canada.

Some use the phrase USA "Rock Maple," I believe.

Oh of course. I'm 31 years old, so it's been a long time since I've practiced my geography; but yeah, Canada is a part of the North American continent!

Thank you for the refresher!

 

[Basswood]

I think I'll get my answer in 2-3 years when I think I'll be replacing the Meridian Maples (or whatever I get) with some top-quality 100% maple drums made from some species of North American maple. I realize I don't have to go with 100% maple in a top-quality set, but that's my dream as of today.

Well what is your budget? Maybe you can go directly go for a north american maple drum set now.

 

[TwoCables]

Well what is your budget? Maybe you can go directly go for a north american maple drum set now.

I'm saving $275 per month on the 4th of every month, and so I'll have $1375 on June 4th. But once June 4th's deposit happens, I need to cancel this monthly deposit and switch it to about $100 (which would start in July) so that I don't go broke. Unfortunately, it may have to stay at $100 per month for the next 2-3 years afterward. I'm also trying to avoid including any possible money I get from any gigs just so that money is like free, found money.

So, here's what I am considering right now:

• Mapex Meridian Maple Studioease shell pack for $779.99 from Midwest Percussion (but a local drum shop claimed that they'll match this price)
• Mapex TS700 double tom stand for $114.99
• Drum heads for all 6 drums which comes to $222.64 after tax
• Drum bags, which is $299.99 shipped, no tax.

The grand total is $1,417.61. I believe that even though this is $42.61 more than what I believe I'll have in my savings account after June 4th, I should still be able to swing it no problem.

And so then I'll save up for 2-3 years after this and get some top-quality, high-end drums.

I know I could buy used, but for some reason I have a strong preference to be the first owner of whatever I get. However, I think that I'll be more comfortable with the idea of getting used drums once I get this out of my system - especially if I find something like a used Yamaha PHX shell pack. However, I don't have any extra room for storing more than one shell pack at a time.

 

[Pocket-full-of-gold]

And so then I'll save up for 2-3 years after this and get some top-quality, high-end drums.

I know I could buy used, but for some reason I have a strong preference to be the first owner of whatever I get. However, I think that I'll be more comfortable with the idea of getting used drums once I get this out of my system.

I get your point, but wouldn't you be better off going the used route now....especially as this kit is just something for the interim? Any money you save can go straight into the coffers to be put towards your high end kit. That's the kit that you'd really want to be first owner of......who cares if your intermediate, "make do" kit has been pre-loved? They're a dime a dozen anyway.

It's about the money mate and if you don't have a lot of it then the sensible thing to do is preserve whatever you can. A dollar saved now is a dollar closer to where you wanna be.
Maybe I need my head read, but I don't get why you'd pay top dollar for a kit that is only going to see you through until you can afford what you really want.

 

[john gerrard]

This is just a suggestion. You are wanting a North American Maple set. Have you looked into a used PDP CX or LX series. These are North America Maple and are the exact same shells as used in the PDP Platinum series. These shells were made in the DW factory in California and shipped to Mexico for assembly. These would be a great set t hold you over until you could affor your dream kit.

I had a set of CX's and they were great sounding drums. They also have true pitch tuning which really kept the drums in tune. The hardware and lugs were the only place that they skipped on professional quality.

This I think would be a great alternative for you until you get your dream kit. John

 

[KarlCrafton]

Hey TC, didn't know Mapex upgraded the lugs to 8 on the ft's. Good move on their part, they are nice kits.
Good luck with whatever you get--can't go wrong with either the Mapex or Sonor really.

 

[Winston_Wolf]

This is just a suggestion. You are wanting a North American Maple set. Have you looked into a used PDP CX or LX series. These are North America Maple and are the exact same shells as used in the PDP Platinum series. These shells were made in the DW factory in California and shipped to Mexico for assembly. These would be a great set t hold you over until you could affor your dream kit.

I had a set of CX's and they were great sounding drums. They also have true pitch tuning which really kept the drums in tune. The hardware and lugs were the only place that they skipped on professional quality.

This I think would be a great alternative for you until you get your dream kit. John

I owned a Pacific CX kit, but I sold it after I bought a Mapex Meridian. The Mapex kit looks and sounds better, and has a higher build quality. Overall I'd say the hardware on both is just about equal, but the suspension mount design on the Mapex is superior.

If you're really hung up on where the trees grew before being shaped into the shells the Pacific kit has a better pedigree, but if you want a better sounding and better engineered kit Mapex is a solid choice.

 

[Winston_Wolf]

I'm saving $275 per month on the 4th of every month, and so I'll have $1375 on June 4th. But once June 4th's deposit happens, I need to cancel this monthly deposit and switch it to about $100 (which would start in July) so that I don't go broke. Unfortunately, it may have to stay at $100 per month for the next 2-3 years afterward. I'm also trying to avoid including any possible money I get from any gigs just so that money is like free, found money.

So, here's what I am considering right now:

• Mapex Meridian Maple Studioease shell pack for $779.99 from Midwest Percussion (but a local drum shop claimed that they'll match this price)
• Mapex TS700 double tom stand for $114.99
• Drum heads for all 6 drums which comes to $222.64 after tax
• Drum bags, which is $299.99 shipped, no tax.

The grand total is $1,417.61. I believe that even though this is $42.61 more than what I believe I'll have in my savings account after June 4th, I should still be able to swing it no problem.

And so then I'll save up for 2-3 years after this and get some top-quality, high-end drums.

I know I could buy used, but for some reason I have a strong preference to be the first owner of whatever I get. However, I think that I'll be more comfortable with the idea of getting used drums once I get this out of my system - especially if I find something like a used Yamaha PHX shell pack. However, I don't have any extra room for storing more than one shell pack at a time.

If you're looking to spend over $1400 you might want to get in touch with Interstate Music when you're ready to spend the money. They often offer coupons and when I bought my Mapex kit I got either 10 or 15% off of my entire order, which saved me a good amount of money.

Also, I'm willing to bet once you have the Mapex you might not be quite as quick to upgrade.

I'm constantly knocked out by the quality and sound of my Meridian kit and I can easily imagine playing this kit for a very long time to come. Besides the fact it is so beautiful, it is very well built, but I can totally change the sound and character by switching heads and tuning it differently.

 

[RobertM]

Oh of course. I'm 31 years old, so it's been a long time since I've practiced my geography; but yeah, Canada is a part of the North American continent!

Thank you for the refresher!

Oh, I didn't mean for my post to be snobby--I was honestly just noting how some folks say "Canadian Maple" (for example, Tama for Starclassics), but others say "North American maple" implying U.S. maple. It's tricky--who the hell knows exactly where the wood is harvested!

 

[TwoCables]

I get your point, but wouldn't you be better off going the used route now....especially as this kit is just something for the interim? Any money you save can go straight into the coffers to be put towards your high end kit. That's the kit that you'd really want to be first owner of......who cares if your intermediate, "make do" kit has been pre-loved? They're a dime a dozen anyway.

It's about the money mate and if you don't have a lot of it then the sensible thing to do is preserve whatever you can. A dollar saved now is a dollar closer to where you wanna be.
Maybe I need my head read, but I don't get why you'd pay top dollar for a kit that is only going to see you through until you can afford what you really want.

I guess my main problem is that I need the peace of mind that if I don't like the drums for some reason, or if there is some defect, then I can always return them. But as far as I know, it seems that most used sales are final.

There are other aspects that I don't like when I consider getting a used set, such as not knowing why the person sold the drums which includes not knowing what the drums have been through.

All in all, I just feel way more comfortable with getting something brand new from a store for that peace of mind.

Hey TC, didn't know Mapex upgraded the lugs to 8 on the ft's. Good move on their part, they are nice kits.
Good luck with whatever you get--can't go wrong with either the Mapex or Sonor really.

Thank you, Karl!

I owned a Pacific CX kit, but I sold it after I bought a Mapex Meridian. The Mapex kit looks and sounds better, and has a higher build quality. Overall I'd say the hardware on both is just about equal, but the suspension mount design on the Mapex is superior.

If you're really hung up on where the trees grew before being shaped into the shells the Pacific kit has a better pedigree, but if you want a better sounding and better engineered kit Mapex is a solid choice.

I think that I'm just like most drummers in that my #1 concern is the sound, and everything else is secondary.

So, thank you for the reassurance!!

If you're looking to spend over $1400 you might want to get in touch with Interstate Music when you're ready to spend the money. They often offer coupons and when I bought my Mapex kit I got either 10 or 15% off of my entire order, which saved me a good amount of money.

Also, I'm willing to bet once you have the Mapex you might not be quite as quick to upgrade.

I keep hearing a little voice in my head that is saying the same thing. I mean, I have a little feeling that when I have saved up for a top-quality high-end kit (in 2-3 years), I might just say "screw it" and get a complete set of my dream cymbals plus some new stands! I mean, I do see the possibility that I might have a hard time parting with these since they're likely going to have a noticeably superior sound to my old Stage Customs!

But regarding ordering over the internet: I think I'd much rather order locally from the local drum shop. Plus, they are saying that they should be able to match the $779.99 price for the Studioease shell pack that Midwest Percussion is selling them for. And by getting them right from this drum shop, I will have the peace of mind that if the drums I end up with have a defect, then I can just bring them back to the store instead of having to deal with return shipping. Or, the same is true if I don't like the drums for some reason (I doubt I won't like them, but I don't want to make assumptions yet).

I'm constantly knocked out by the quality and sound of my Meridian kit and I can easily imagine playing this kit for a very long time to come. Besides the fact it is so beautiful, it is very well built, but I can totally change the sound and character by switching heads and tuning it differently.

What heads have you tried so far?

Also, which finish do you have? Do you have pics I can see?

Oh, I didn't mean for my post to be snobby--I was honestly just noting how some folks say "Canadian Maple" (for example, Tama for Starclassics), but others say "North American maple" implying U.S. maple. It's tricky--who the hell knows exactly where the wood is harvested!

Nah, I was being genuine. I mean, I didn't think it was snobby. It's just that this really is something that's easy to forget.