Yamaha Maple Hybrid tuning problems

LittleLegs

Senior Member
Hi - I've been through very many kits in my 50 years, and this is the only one I haven't been able to dial in pretty effortlessly. I don't know if it's that I can't start from finger tightness as the lug system (with plastic inserts) always has resistance so the tension rod to spin down to finger tightness to get a level playing field to start from? The toms only sound resonant at one tuning (the 10" never sounds truly happy anywhere). I've used different heads so, it's not a case of a bad head. The edges look good too. Any ideas? I've got clear/coated Amabassdors over clear ambassadors as I like to tune for a lot of resonance. Maybe there's a knack that I'm just not getting yet? I'm almost thinking I need to get a drum dial (not that helps with getting the heads to the right pitch). I'm almost thinking of getting rid of the kit.
 
Bring all the lugs down to where everything is just touching .
Star pattern a quarter turn , make sure opposing lugs are down to where they are touching ( they will back off )
Then start bringing them up and tune.
It is a bit of a trick.
Once tuned to where you want , you probably won’t have to re- tune for months.
I’ve never had a problem with tuning ranges with Yamaha , they sound amazing low to high .

Maybe slack up on the 10” Tom a bit.
Hope this helps
 
Check the YESS mount. Make sure it is tightened properly to the shell. You can also experiment with the placement of the drum on the hex rod, as that can make a huge difference in sound.
 
These are hook lugs right? You can visually set all the screws the same length before you hook them onto the shell.
And while the head is still fairly loose - press the centre to check the ripples are the same all around.
Good point about the Yess mount - the distance along the hexrod can either absorb or reinforce the shell vibrations. Worth a try.
 
If you're going to buy a tuner (HIGHLY recommended) skip the drum dial and get a Tune-Bot instead. The latter is an order of magnitude better that the former. Like, seriously better.

I've owned drums whose tension rods couldn't be finger tightened. It drove me crazy. I get why they do it but I'll never own a kit like that again if I can help it.
 
I’ve got a tunebot coming so hopefully that will help. I have a matching hybrid snare and it tunes effortlessly, so I’ve no idea why the toms seem so difficult. Thanks for everyone's thoughts.
 
I have my 12" at exactly the same pitch - the 10" a semitone higher so it's an octave above my 14" floor (which is where I want it - but your tone sounds better). My bot is coming today so really curious.

Something I noticed is that the 10" sounds better off the stand. Not just when I'm holding it by the rim but when I'm holding the YESS tom holder. So I wonder if there's something going on when the tom holder is inserted into the three-way tom mount?
 
Hi - I've been through very many kits in my 50 years, and this is the only one I haven't been able to dial in pretty effortlessly. I don't know if it's that I can't start from finger tightness as the lug system (with plastic inserts) always has resistance so the tension rod to spin down to finger tightness to get a level playing field to start from? The toms only sound resonant at one tuning (the 10" never sounds truly happy anywhere). I've used different heads so, it's not a case of a bad head. The edges look good too. Any ideas? I've got clear/coated Amabassdors over clear ambassadors as I like to tune for a lot of resonance. Maybe there's a knack that I'm just not getting yet? I'm almost thinking I need to get a drum dial (not that helps with getting the heads to the right pitch). I'm almost thinking of getting rid of the kit.
I recently got a set of these HM’s and have found the same issue. I do not have a tuner to dial them in, never found the need for one on any of the sets I’ve owned over the years. These drums are a different animal for sure. The hook lug almost seems like something that really wasn’t needed from the beginning as head changes are so infrequent but I can see why it was done.
As this thread is a couple years old I’m wondering how you made out with yours? I’m using Aquarian Modern Vintage medium over Classic Clear resos, similar to what you went with. Beautiful drum build and quality but the head swapping and tuning, ironically, seems to be an issue.
 
Wow, this is honestly surprising to me. I've found the AHMs to be incredibly easy to get a range of sounds on; everything is super-easy.

I can send TuneBot settings when I get home if that'd be useful.
 
It sounds like an episode of "The Twilight Zone"

Hard to tune Yamahas? That's like saying Geez these Corvettes are slow.

It just doesn't add up. Have you tried tuning in a different room?
 
more trouble than they're worth?
and you'd rather have the old-fashioned system
 
Wow, this is honestly surprising to me. I've found the AHMs to be incredibly easy to get a range of sounds on; everything is super-easy.

I can send TuneBot settings when I get home if that'd be useful.
Crazy, right? I had a set of Stage Customs years ago that were great and really easy to tune. These AHM’s seem to have a few variables that I haven’t encountered before. Maybe I need a Tunebot? The lugs seem to be the issue to me, perhaps an idea that really isn’t needed unless you’re swapping heads regularly.

I’m sure I’ll get there, it just seems to be a steeper learning curve with these. They are phenomenal drums in every aspect, they just seem different in the tuning. Not a bad thing, just different.
 
He says those First say 3 twists of the tension rod is different and 'throws' off the rest of the process. If I'm imaging that correctly- That would bug me too.

I can't start from finger tightness as the lug system (with plastic inserts) always has resistance so the tension rod to spin down to finger tightness to get a level playing field to start from?
I wouldn't want that plastic/nylon resistance there at the beginning either gimme the old metal to metal sense.
But I am imagining from those words
 
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The lugs with the plastic inserts...I can't feel where I'm at tension-wise. I majorly use feel (assuming everything is lubed up right) to tune my drums.

I don't like anything soft on my drums which includes no nylon rod washers, and no lug gaskets. Soft things are a vibration sink in my mind and my goal is to transfer 100% of the vibrations of the heads and hoops...to the shell, through the rods and lugs. A nylon washer and a lug gasket...that's 2 points to lose vibes from. I absolutely notice a big sonic improvement when I remove lug gaskets, especially if they are soft rubber ones like DW uses.

Audible differences by removing nylon washers? Not so much. Still, nothing soft on my drums, just for good measure, period.
 
My Birch Custom Absolutes with Nouveau lugs were a nightmare to tune also. The plastic inserts made finger tightening impossible and there wasn't enough room between the rim and the lug for my fingers anyway. You can see what I'm describing in the photo below.

That's half the reason I sold them. I'm fanatical about tuning and they made it much harder than it had to be. Such a shame as they were incredible drums.

20181130_081932.jpg
 
It took me a time or two to figure out the hook lug thing, but messed around with them and now can get them even pretty quickly.
Then tuning is no problem.
The not starting at finger tight point is valid, it’s more like starting at the hooks grab point, but it was easy to figure out and tuning is them is very easy. They are a bit sensitive to the slightest turns of the key but the resulting tone is incredible and I don’t change heads often at all.
I’m kind of a find what I like, set and forget it guy.
 
I just thought of something. If your hoop is holding onto a head despite gravity, (off the drum) that can absolutely explain tuning nightmares. I have first hand experience wit dat. Give all your hoops the gravity test and replace the ones that hold on to the head. If your hoops pass the test, then IDK
 
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