THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

someguy01

someguy01

Well-known member
Old Dog new Cans said:
What kind of hardware are you looking at? Drumfactorydirect.com is my go to. And if you want something different, Champagnedrum.com has some neat stuff. Not horribly over expensive either.
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Not looking for hardware, looking to wrap my kit as I am underwhelmed by the current finish and it's a little beat.

Phil A. said:
I had the exact same experience. I emailed and called them multiple times after their order was late. I never got a response until I called them a scam in an email. After that things were fine. I think the ed sullivan wrap looks pretty good, I'm not sure how it compares to real oyster black pearl though because I can't remember seeing any examples in real life.
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So, I ordered some wrap samples from them yesterday ($0.80 ea for 3"x3" sample) off the website and they sent it out within an hour. I'll keep y'all updated if I decide to order full wrap from them. Thanks for the information regarding your experiences!
 
P

phototravel

Member
If your wood-shelled drum is looking like it needs some attention and you've never stained and or finished wood / wood drum shell before, here's a handy how-to video with time-lapse video and narration and captions. In 2004, my beloved Bison Drum Co. snare drum, purchased in 1997, was damaged in a house fire. In late 2020, I decided to learn how to refinish wood drums and I gave the Bison a makeover. From the flames came something beautiful. I call this drum "The Phoenix". Enjoy.
 
wraub

wraub

Well-known member
Painting a steel snare drum- Should it help to damp the ring of the drum, or would it more likely dry it up too much and "kill" it?
 
roncadillac

roncadillac

Member
wraub said:
Painting a steel snare drum- Should it help to damp the ring of the drum, or would it more likely dry it up too much and "kill" it?
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I taped off the edges and spray painted the inside and outside of a Tama rockstar black chrome snare drum. It definitely tamed the ring but was still no where near 'dead'. It was noticably drier.
 
someguy01

someguy01

Well-known member
roncadillac said:
I taped off the edges and spray painted the inside and outside of a Tama rockstar black chrome snare drum. It definitely tamed the ring but was still no where near 'dead'. It was noticably drier.
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I would think that some of the dryness was a result of painting the interior of the shell, that would certainly effect rebounding sound waves.
 
roncadillac

roncadillac

Member
someguy01 said:
I would think that some of the dryness was a result of painting the interior of the shell, that would certainly effect rebounding sound waves.
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I also used a matte metallic finish which emphasized your above point even further. At a different point a I bought a pork pie black matte steel snare drum which features a rough black matte powder coating on both the inside and outside of the shell. That drum was super super sweet. It had a nice depth of tone and 'presence' that steel drums have with an added warmth and dryness that they typically don't. Combined with thick 2.3mm hoops and the heavy duty pork pie hourglass lugs... It was as sensitive as it was aggressive. Great drum.
 
wraub

wraub

Well-known member
I was thinking of doing exactly this... The drum in question is a 13x3 steel piccolo, the pop is good but the ring is a little much for me. Drier would be good, I'd think.

I may do this. :)


roncadillac said:
I taped off the edges and spray painted the inside and outside of a Tama rockstar black chrome snare drum. It definitely tamed the ring but was still no where near 'dead'. It was noticably drier.
Click to expand...
 
roncadillac

roncadillac

Member
wraub said:
I was thinking of doing exactly this... The drum in question is a 13x3 steel piccolo, the pop is good but the ring is a little much for me. Drier would be good, I'd think.

I may do this. :)
Click to expand...
Not to discourage a fun project but what about a change in heads? If you like a single ply coated try something like the UV1 as it's a bit darker then a g1 or amb, or try a g12 as it's a touch thicker. Another option is a ps3 or genera dry, they can be tuned pretty high and still have some life to them.

A less permanent solution is to cut strips of moleskin and fix them inside the shell to break up/absorb overtones.
 
wraub

wraub

Well-known member
It has an Ebony Weatherking batter on it atm and a stock reso... I know it may enjoy new heads, and some are likely to happen soon (need new BD heads, too), but I'm also kinda bored with the chrome...
Regardless, paint probably won't happen right away, I have a lot of other things I need to get done first.


roncadillac said:
Not to discourage a fun project but what about a change in heads? If you like a single ply coated try something like the UV1 as it's a bit darker then a g1 or amb, or try a g12 as it's a touch thicker. Another option is a ps3 or genera dry, they can be tuned pretty high and still have some life to them.

A less permanent solution is to cut strips of moleskin and fix them inside the shell to break up/absorb overtones.
Click to expand...
 
someguy01

someguy01

Well-known member
For anyone that has done resto work on a Premier kit: What size is the air vent and how did you go about removing/replacing it since it goes through the "P" on the badge?
I am looking to wrap my kit in the near future and this is the only thing that has me slightly perplexed. I could just wrap around it, but that would make me insane within a few weeks.
 
roncadillac

roncadillac

Member
someguy01 said:
For anyone that has done resto work on a Premier kit: What size is the air vent and how did you go about removing/replacing it since it goes through the "P" on the badge?
I am looking to wrap my kit in the near future and this is the only thing that has me slightly perplexed. I could just wrap around it, but that would make me insane within a few weeks.
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No help with that, sorry. I'm sure someone will come along with some tips. All of my 'go-to' processes for stubborn air vent grommets would surely damage the surrounding badge.

Worst case scenario you could drill through the grommet with a bit of the same diameter, punch the hole through the new wrap, and glue the badge back on in the same spot.
 
MrInsanePolack

MrInsanePolack

Platinum Member
someguy01 said:
For anyone that has done resto work on a Premier kit: What size is the air vent and how did you go about removing/replacing it since it goes through the "P" on the badge?
I am looking to wrap my kit in the near future and this is the only thing that has me slightly perplexed. I could just wrap around it, but that would make me insane within a few weeks.
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This might help in getting them out. I'm not sure of the size though.

 
GruntersDad

GruntersDad

Administrator - Mayor
Staff member
someguy01 said:
For anyone that has done resto work on a Premier kit: What size is the air vent and how did you go about removing/replacing it since it goes through the "P" on the badge?
I am looking to wrap my kit in the near future and this is the only thing that has me slightly perplexed. I could just wrap around it, but that would make me insane within a few weeks.
Click to expand...
I think the method would work with that tool and bit, but I would do it from the inside. Any slippage and you ruin something
 
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