I think the way you "use" D'Virgilio's reviews is to actually listen to the sound of the instrument on the video with good speakers or headphones. Think to yourself: With an excellent drummer playing this instrument under pretty optimal conditions, this is what that drum will sound like.
EDIT: I should add, after watching some of this video in particular, that he is clearly dissing the provided heads a few minutes in when he talks about how much better they'd sound with real heads. That's an important part of listening to his reviews: He'll damn things he doesn't like with faint praise by indicating that you can upgrade them later.
I really like and appreciate his videos. He's smart, kind, and positive and he plays his butt off. And he shows the products in their best possible light. I DO wish that he was more critical at times but I don't go to the Sweetwater reviews for that.