Interestingly enough I’ve never fiddled with the settings. I know there are more tweaks and adjustments you can make to it, but it felt great to me right out of the box. It’s the first pedal I’ve owned that I can say that about.Thanks for the review!
Did you fuss with the adjustments on the pedal?
What kind of music do you play?
The pedal just felt right to me right out of the box. Tama has achieved something remarkable here. I probably could dive deeper but I’m pretty stoked with it as is.Did you have to do much tweaking of the original settings, or did it feel perfect right out of the box?
[/QUOTEI haven’t touched the settings on the
Thanks for getting this back on topic.I want to address the OP’s original question. I own a Dyna-Sync single. I too was a little reluctant because you can only do so much testing in a shop. I took the plunge and haven’t looked back. It is far and away my favorite pedal I’ve ever owned. I don’t know what kind of black magic Tama used to create this thing but the “loss of power” that I’ve also felt from other DD pedals doesn’t exist in the Dyna-Sync IMO. Worth is in the eye (or wallet) of the beholder but I feel like this pedal has paid me back in spades.
The Yamaha pedal is easily covertible. Just buy the direct drive spare parts and a lefty chain drive pedal, after that it takes a drum key and 5 minutes... Couldn't be happier with the result.You can make the righty a lefty. You have to remove the mainshaft and flip everything around on both the master and slave pedals. You now have a lefty version.
I try to avoid buying at the big online retailers, but I will test it in a store nonetheless! Thank you.
Were you able to test the Tama for reversibility in a store?Don't know why Tama refuses to offer a lefty version (or at least an easily covertible one)
A slow-mo video will likely not capture the subtlety of the situation.Enough, already! Will somebody post a link to slo-mo vid of a comparison between a DD pedal’s and a chain pedal’s motion?
Yeah, that is a little strange. It doesn't bother me so I haven't looked into it further, but I imagine you can slide it to the left by loosening the one hex bolt.My only tiny complaint about this pedal is that the beater/shaft is not centered directly over the foot pedal. I like to have it strike the middle of the head. Out of the box, it's like 2 inches to the right so I'm going to move it as close to the drive link as possible. Other than that, I'm very happy with it.
I noticed this on a shop demo and figured it was a way to have that beater length (if needed) and not strike the center of the drum of any diameter.My only tiny complaint about this pedal is that the beater/shaft is not centered directly over the foot pedal. I like to have it strike the middle of the head. Out of the box, it's like 2 inches to the right so I'm going to move it as close to the drive link as possible. Other than that, I'm very happy with it.
I have a thought on this. You stated elsewhere you are an engineer (I think), so I will run it by you.For all practical purposes with average spring tension and average beater weight, skilas is correct that the chain will never appear slack. But to say that the chain is always under tension means that it should have an identical feel to a direct drive, which it doesn't so that should be enough evidence to convince someone. If tension is the only force on the drive system, they would operate and feel identical.