Then I must be in that 1% of people who bought TWO DW kits and didn't like them. It definitely isn't about my not being able to afford it. I really wanted to like them but they always sounded better when somebody else played them, to meI would say most, if not all, of the DW hate you read is jealousy. I can't afford it, therefore, I'll hate it and call it overpriced, no better than, ugly hardware, on and on and on.
See.. this is the perfect example.. Bo is not HATING.. He is TELLING THE TRUTH..Then I must be in that 1% of people who bought TWO DW kits and didn't like them. It definitely isn't about my not being able to afford it. I really wanted to like them
To the OP, I think at that time the bubinga was still real veneer. The veneer they use now for everything except the Scandinavian Birch is now Alpi veneer, which is created. Is this the kit in the UK by any chance?
This is correct.. They actually still continue this at present with most of the types they use. The Genuine and Alpi....the african bubinga used as the outer ply in sonor's designer series was, i believe, an actual ply of bubinga, as opposed to a thin layer of veneer ..
Did I say that Sonor invented it? No. Premier has been doing it that way forever too.Just thought that making it sound like Sonor invented undersized thin maple shells was more than a little silly. I was surprised that none of the watch dogs got off their seats over that. But when i made my comment, well....... I said pick the DWs, its that easy.
So, you're in the UK?This is matt and almost bare wood feeling. Anyone got any tips for waxing / polishing?
Thanks. Yes, Im in the South East.So, you're in the UK?
As for getting a better lustre on your finish, just apply a couple of coats of Briwax (clear) to the shells. Wait about 10 minutes for the wax to nearly dry before buffing to a shine on the initial coat, then apply again, but wait about 30 minutes before final buffing. Continually turn the buffing cloth (soft cotton/toweling) to present a clean surface to the wax. Buff to final shine with a clean cloth in the same manner. This takes a bit of effort, & best done with the hardware off the shell.
Removing all the hardware is best. It's not essential, but it does make the job a lot easier. Additionally, if you have a bare shell to work with, it's easier to get an even shine without wax getting caught up around gaskets & other trap points.Thanks. Yes, Im in the South East.
Do you mean best with heads & hoops removed or all hardware?
No, I was there a long time. I spent most of the time checking the bearing edges rather than inspecting the finish. There's eight shells, that took a bit of time What do you mean by "so so hue?"Make sure you go over your drums good.. It sounds like you did not spend too much time where they were located ??
Cool tom sizes for sure.. Finish is so-so hue.. Maybe it's the gold making it so-so in my mind........... hehe
I think I know what you mean. The finish is not 'bling' its dull. You can see the grain more as a result, but they are matt. A clear lacquer would have looked better IMO.That guys pics.. The finish looks "o.k".. I remember seeing that finish little bit more vibrant I think.. and yours probably are if I was in the room looking at them.