Nice read, thanks! Years ago I tried a set of puresound blasters and really liked them so they've been my go-to whenever I need/want wires. They are intended more for louder demanding play but I find their properties just give increased snare presence under your stick which can be beneficial for both low and high volume playing while the thicker gauge wires and beefy end clips help them last much longer then most other wires. Any and every snare drum I have and had over the last few years has had puresound blasters and an Evans hazy 300 on the bottom then a calftone, coated g1, or coated g12 on the top (depending on the intended purpose of the drum, calftone most of the time as I don't really bash).
The 'equalizer' concept is no joke. If you have sympathetic buzz that you just absolutely can not tune or muffle out and it's driving you crazy... Simply cut out the middle 4-8 snare wires and you'll be blown away by how much it reduces if not eliminates the probablem. If you are concerned about having so few wires then simply get a 30+ strand and cut out the middle few.
Might be a mistake in that article regarding endplates as it mentions that
"Shallower snare beds (vintage Ludwigs) like to see flatter plates. Deep snare beds (modern Dunnetts) tend to prefer pitched plates"
Which is contrary to what fatcat wires recommend ?
"One way of deciding which snare is best, can be determined by the depth of the snare bed on the drum. Some snare drums have little to no snare bed which will require choosing the P style end plate. This will work the best because when the Fat Cat is attached and fully tensioned, it will automatically force the snare wires into the bottom head resulting in minimal un-wanted rattling and maximum contact and sensitivity. Choose the NP (No Pitch) style end plate for snare drums with a deep cut snare bed. In this case, the deep bed is creating the contact and there is no need for the reverse angle on the end plate."