Snare drum size?

NeelModi

NeelModi

Junior Member
Hi all

I recently purchased a vintage 1969 Yamaha D20 kit from a jazz drummer off Kijiji. Made in Japan :)

I want to get a bag for the snare, but I'm not sure how to measure the depth. It's 14" diameter, for sure, but rim to rim it measure 5.75" and head to head about 4.75".

Is this a 5.5" inch snare or a 5" snare?

Thanks!

Neel

20191209_102749.jpg
 
Looks real nice, too! I'm a Yamaha fan myself. Most bags have some wiggle room so as long as there is no large strainer or throw off mechanism, most 5" bags should be fine.
 
GruntersDad said:
Measure the red line. THat is the shell size.
Click to expand...

This is gonna come in slightly under the actual shell depth. The hoop for the head is in this part of the counterhoop, but then there is the collar that rises to the bearing edge and playing surface. I still going with 5" on this one. Most Yamaha snares of this era were 5" or 5.5" deep and this looks like a 5" model.
 
I’m gonna say it’s 5. Like donzo says most bags have some wiggle room , but If you really want to know he shell depth for bag purposes or just to know what ur actual shell depth is , why not just remove the hoops and measure the shell ??‍♂️?. They’ll be no wondering or guessing then ??
 
Over50drumguy said:
I’m gonna say it’s 5. Like donzo says most bags have some wiggle room , but If you really want to know he shell depth for bag purposes or just to know what ur actual shell depth is , why not just remove the hoops and measure the shell ??‍♂️?. They’ll be no wondering or guessing then ??
Click to expand...
Thanks! I took the drum apart and yes, it is indeed a 5"
 
I like it a lot, looking for new heads now, as the existing ones are pretty beat up. Also, at my last gig, I think a screw fell of the throw mechanism, and it kept dropping during the first song. I tightened it up and it kept for the rest of show, but now I'm considering if a new throw and butt end will even line up with this older model. Or I just replace the missing screw and hope it's not something else that was making the snares turn off.
 
Ah man, good luck with the repairs! I hope you can get that sorted out with minimal stress. I'd love to see the badge and throw off mechanism so post pics if you can.
 
donzo74 said:
Ah man, good luck with the repairs! I hope you can get that sorted out with minimal stress. I'd love to see the badge and throw off mechanism so post pics if you can.
Click to expand...
Will do for sure! But likely I won't get to the music store to get some new heads (and hardware store to find a bloody screw) until this weekend.
 
OK, this throw is really giving me a throw ;)

I tried to replace the screw, but can't find the same screw anywhere. But here's the thing - the throw switch is connected with two screws only and just by throwing the switch, the screws get bumped out until the switch falls. I can't believe this is by design. A longer screw with a nut would seem to hold it place, but then the switch gets stuck. Here's some photos of what I mean:

screws.jpg
The screw on the left is the "original" one that came with the snare. Not sure if it's original to the snare, but they were there when I bought it used. The screw on the right is the closest thing I could find at the hardware store.

throw switch.jpg

Here's the throw with one of the new screws. It's just like a pin, it gets knocked out easily enough, even with screws on both sides.

throw plate.jpg

Here's the plate. It's attached by 4 screws. There are also 2 empty holes, vertically spaced at 2.5". I guess there was another plate/throw on here before.

I'm happy to invest in a new throw, but I guess I need one with vertical mounting at 2.5". That likely limits my options.

Any advice here? Fixable or should I just try to get a new throw?

Thanks!
 
Those empty holes, to me, look like a good spot for Allen screws or pins. They could pin the screw in so it won't budge. Looking at the picture, the one on the left is cracked so it might not be able to hold a screw or pin anymore.
 
Nut and bolt clearly won't work. See this photo of the throw from above, there's very little tolerance for the switch to move up, I can't have anything extending past the switch. This is a conundrum. How did they make this work before? Any screw in here is going to pop out....

throw from top.jpg
 
Maybe I need something like this to hold them together:

.187 (3/16") Pivot Barrels - .50" - w/6-32BHT Screws | KnifeKits.com

KnifeKits.com pivot barrels are the most precise in the knife industry, insuring that you have consistency in your fit-up every time. We heat treat our pivots to an optimum spring temper to insure the very best wear and strength properties. If you are looking for barrels that have the same...
www.knifekits.com

Just need the right size.
 
NeelModi said:
Maybe I need something like this to hold them together:

.187 (3/16") Pivot Barrels - .50" - w/6-32BHT Screws | KnifeKits.com

KnifeKits.com pivot barrels are the most precise in the knife industry, insuring that you have consistency in your fit-up every time. We heat treat our pivots to an optimum spring temper to insure the very best wear and strength properties. If you are looking for barrels that have the same...
www.knifekits.com

Just need the right size.
Click to expand...

That may be your best option to retain the throw mechanism that came with the snare. Do you have enough clearance on the inside of the throw for the new, smaller bolt heads?

If that works and should you have any issues with the four newer smaller bolts backing out of the pivot barrels try a drop of Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 on the threads of the bolts. You'll still be able to remove the bolts if needed. Whatever you do, don't use Red Loctite. That is for all practical purposes like "welding" the bolts to the pivot barrels.

Another option would be to file down the threads of your two existing bolts near the head of the bolt and the thickness of the outer mount arm.
Leave the threads on the outer end of each bolt to thread into the throw mechanism. That way the throw can swivel freely on the outer mount arms,
but be threaded securely on the throw itself. A drop of Blue Loctite on the threads should prevent all the bolts from backing out.

And for the record, I don't recommend using Blue Loctite on drum hardware, but I think this may be the only way to salvage the throw off mechanism you have. It's a Hail Mary plan. Otherwise you'll likely need to install a new throw off mechanism altogether.
 
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