Remote Hi-Hat..Anyone have experience with it?


Senior Member
I have a 3 legged pearl hi hat stand and when my double pedal is setup it places my hi hat to where i have to reach for it. I'm looking at the Pearl Eliminator Remote hi hat but before i spend $250 I want to know if there is any downfalls I should be aware of or if it will act just like a regular hi hat stand just with more mobility.


my old drum instructor swears by them now. he's an ambidextrous open handed player so he has his hats in front and above his snare, instead of rack toms. he has an auxiliary snare and one floating floor tom on his left, and two floor toms on his right. there are two different rides flanking the hats, it's a badass setup. i like it, but the remote's feel is less satisfying wen it comes to tapping the pedal in comparison to a regular stand. a bi pod hat stand would best, only if you're going to keep the hats where they "normally" go. i am a single kick player and still use the two legged stand because they are more comfortable. since i play open handed, there's no third leg to interfere with the snare tripod, so i can keep the hats closer to the snare and rack tom


Administrator - Mayor
Staff member
can you not turn the legs on your hihats so that you have room for the slave pedal. Mosy good hihat stands will let you loosen a screw and swivel the three legs without turning the pedal.


Platinum Member
My hh stand swivels and I was able to extend the slave pedal shaft long enoughnto get the slave pedal to be outside of the hh pedal. The shaft just crosses over the hh pedal.

Best of both worlds and didn't have t buy anything.


Senior Member
This would be a lot simpler to explain with a picture I will have to upload one but for now heres my best shot...I have three mounted toms my snare is just off center (torwards the right) between the 1st and second, with my legs straddling the snare and both feet on the pedals the hi hat stand wont let it get close enough...yes i rotated the three legs but i can only rotate them so far before they get in the way of my foot or the reach the causes more of a perpendicular lineup between my hi hat footboard and my left bass pedal...which in turn prevents my hats from being right there making sort of a triangle between the hats snare and tom 1....I literally reach all the way across my body to reach them....i hope that makes more sense


Senior Member
No one can succeed without any hard work. Karl Max was successful, because he spent more than 30 years writing the book "Communist Manifesto"; Tomas Edison succeeded, because he had experimented thousands of times to find the best material for lights. Every success calls for hard work. If you want to suc-ceed, work hard first.
I have no clue how this applies to the thread i posted........


Platinum Member
This one has got some good props here: Many feel it's far more responsive than the traditional cable driven remote hat stands available.

It's inventor, Bill Bachman is an active member on DW if you have any questions.

Here's a few thoughts from DW members on it:


Platinum Member
I'm looking at the Pearl Eliminator Remote hi hat but before i spend $250 I want to know if there is any downfalls I should be aware of or if it will act just like a regular hi hat stand just with more mobility.
I would say, any trade off in performance will be "negated" by the simple fact that ... you get to position your hat exactly where you want it.​
I have 3 hi-hats ... a Yamaha 700 series (Steve Gadd type), an 80's vintage Tama legless, and a Yamaha WHS860S remote ... three different tools for three different jobs​



Gold Member
Thanks for the mention pocket-full-of-gold.

If any of the existing remote hats on the market worked at a level that I could accept for my primary hi hat, then I never would've invested so much time, effort & $'s into the remote speedy hat. I'd tried everything and nothing felt as good as a straight stand to my foot. And now, the speedy hat feels even better than a straight stand to my foot (and many other's emphatically agree).

I'll never go back to crossing my sticks between the hat and snare again, when you move the hats towards the center a bit (or all the way) so that you don't have to cross everything you play now becomes easier and there are countless new possibilities. When I sit in on a set with a normal straight stand I can certainly get the job done, but it's amazing how much I have to edit my musical ideas since crossing over makes many things I now habitually play next to impossible. It's really frustrating actually to have that limitation re-introduced.

Anyway, feel free to contact me with any questions. -Bill


Senior Member
First, do yourself a favor, and try out as many remote pedals as you can. I've used Pearl and DW remote hi-hats, and in my experience, they felt sluggish and response time wasn't what it should be. In other words, you would have to adjust your technique to open and close the hats milli-seconds earlier than you normally would.

Also, I owned a Pearl Eliminator remote hi-hat for about a week. In that time, the cable completely broke and detached inside the cable housing... I did a lot of research and found many people with the same problem. The reason this happens and will happen to you is that Pearl uses a brass crimp at the end of the cable at both ends (rather than a removable clamp). It's only a matter of time before it fails. I understand DW's is better to deal with due to the cable being easily interchangeable. Another con is moving the pedal. If your cable ever gets crimped or mashed, it's over. They're really more trouble than they're worth.

Now, as I said, try as many as you can first. After that, get yourself a Remote Speedy Hat. Check out Pocket's links. I'm ordering one this week. It's the only remote pedal that makes practical sense to me.