Re-finishing idea

Bo Eder

Bo Eder

Platinum Member
Hey all,

So as my busy summer season comes to a close - the reason I have those 80s Granstars - I'm reflecting on how much I really like them. They really are my Safari kit on steroids. As the fall comes on, the black oyster Starclassics will probably get the bulk of the work since there's less moving the kit around once at the gig. I'm thinking maybe, during the downtime, of re-finishing the Granstars to bring back their original lustre. Lets face it, the bass drum has alot of deep scratches and gashes in the finish, but the interiors and bearing edges are in great condition, so I'd like to see if it would be a good idea to do this.

I know there are alot of you here that have re-finished drums, but I never have. I'm debating if covering in a pearl wrap would be good, or to just have it painted another color. I've seen some really cool paint jobs on some hot rod cars at a recent car show and I'm wondering how hard would that be?

So if someone could give me a step-by-step process: obviously I would need to dismantle the drums, should I strip the color myself? How would I do that? What's the process of someone spraying the drums a new color? Just so I don't appear to be an idiot when a painter explains it to me. How much should I expect to pay someone to paint three drums?

I don't know if I'd like a pearl wrap - I had Pro Drum do a kit for me years ago, but leaving it in the sun worries me, and I tend to do that alot. Thoughts? Comments? Leave them?
 
I'd go with painting them, over a wrap. If you're gonna be playing them with Mister Sol shinning down on you, wraps fade, wraps blister, wraps just ain't the way to go. If you play gigs where the audience is more than a few feet away, even a home done rattle-can paint job, done right, will look real good. Have a few bucks to spend, you can probably find a cat with a spray rig that can shoot a kit, for around $300. You'd probably spend the same buying wrap (and wrapping service).​
With my Club Date project http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93540&highlight=club+date+project I bought a Harbor Freight Random Orbital Sander (sometimes called a jitterbug) .... a whopping $25 investment. And some sanding discs. Took 2hrs. to sand the 26" kick .... and about an hour each, on the rack and floor. 60 and 100 grit. I'll do a final sand with 220 grit, then stain the shells. And a satin clear coat, and bam .... done. I'll kick up the project again, when this heat wave passes.​
now, mind you, I'm sanding 'em down to bare wood .... because I'm staining 'em. If you're gonna go with a solid color, then you only have to sand 'em enough to smooth out the surface. The new paint will adhere better, too. Once sanded, I'd primer first ..... then go for the finish color.​
 
harryconway said:
I'd go with painting them, over a wrap. If you're gonna be playing them with Mister Sol shinning down on you, wraps fade, wraps blister, wraps just ain't the way to go. If you play gigs where the audience is more than a few feet away, even a home done rattle-can paint job, done right, will look real good. Have a few bucks to spend, you can probably find a cat with a spray rig that can shoot a kit, for around $300. You'd probably spend the same buying wrap (and wrapping service).​
With my Club Date project http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93540&highlight=club+date+project I bought a Harbor Freight Random Orbital Sander (sometimes called a jitterbug) .... a whopping $25 investment. And some sanding discs. Took 2hrs. to sand the 26" kick .... and about an hour each, on the rack and floor. 60 and 100 grit. I'll do a final sand with 220 grit, then stain the shells. And a satin clear coat, and bam .... done. I'll kick up the project again, when this heat wave passes.​
now, mind you, I'm sanding 'em down to bare wood .... because I'm staining 'em. If you're gonna go with a solid color, then you only have to sand 'em enough to smooth out the surface. The new paint will adhere better, too. Once sanded, I'd primer first ..... then go for the finish color.​
Click to expand...

So basically give it a light sanding, prime it. Light sand again, then spray the main color, then clear coat? Sounds easy!
 
harryconway said:
I'd go with painting them, over a wrap. If you're gonna be playing them with Mister Sol shinning down on you, wraps fade, wraps blister, wraps just ain't the way to go. If you play gigs where the audience is more than a few feet away, even a home done rattle-can paint job, done right, will look real good. Have a few bucks to spend, you can probably find a cat with a spray rig that can shoot a kit, for around $300. You'd probably spend the same buying wrap (and wrapping service).​
With my Club Date project http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93540&highlight=club+date+project I bought a Harbor Freight Random Orbital Sander (sometimes called a jitterbug) .... a whopping $25 investment. And some sanding discs. Took 2hrs. to sand the 26" kick .... and about an hour each, on the rack and floor. 60 and 100 grit. I'll do a final sand with 220 grit, then stain the shells. And a satin clear coat, and bam .... done. I'll kick up the project again, when this heat wave passes.​
now, mind you, I'm sanding 'em down to bare wood .... because I'm staining 'em. If you're gonna go with a solid color, then you only have to sand 'em enough to smooth out the surface. The new paint will adhere better, too. Once sanded, I'd primer first ..... then go for the finish color.​
Click to expand...

So basically give it a light sanding, prime it. Light sand again, then spray the main color, then clear coat? Sounds easy!
 
I've done this several times Bo.. Actually the last time, on the Maple version of your drums, Artstar Customs.. , which I since sold..

I would get a car paint guy to do it.... so it comes out glass like. You will have to visit some to find the right guy and price.. Many will try to rip you off as I found out.
 
Bo Eder said:
So basically give it a light sanding, prime it. Light sand again, then spray the main color, then clear coat? Sounds easy!
Click to expand...
Yeah, pretty much is. And like Artstar mentioned .... the right guy. That may be you. But if not, car guys can indeed do this. But some will wanna charge you $300 .... and some will wanna charge you $1300. So shopping around is a very good idea.​
 
I'm of the mindset that, save for a general cleaning, drums should be just left in their original state. The "is it what it is" theory. I guess Willie Nelson's old beat up acoustic he's been playing forever sold me on the idea. It's ok to let a drum show it's age. A visual reminder of the life it's lived. And it's character. Drum Philosphy 101.
 
I too would leave them alone,but if as you mentioned,you want to bring them back to their original luster,then a multi step job awaits you.Finishing/refinishing drums is more akin to furniture/cabinet building and finishing,and not as simple as painting.Your drums are NOT painted.They have several coats of stain,and clear poly as a finishing coat.So to remove the deep scratches,you'll first have to strip the clear coat,and stain,and sand down to bare wood.Painting over a scratch,will look exactly like,well..... a scratch painted over.Just like dry wall that was just painted over,and not sanded and primed properly.That is unfortunately,the right way to do it.Paint is ...well just paint,and it will scratch,and damage easily

There is a thread on this forum,about a guy completely restoring his vintage Tama Superstars.He details the process about the sanding,staining and clear coating as a final step.The drums look brand new,so this guy did a great job.

So I guess you just have to decide just what kind of job you want to do,and how much work is involved.I can tell you from experience,that,the results from doin it the right way,are leaps and bounds from just painting.:)

Steve B
 
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