My First Project - Rogers Holiday Restoration

Ransan

Senior Member
Recently I got an Eagle Badge Rogers Holiday kit in Mardi Gras finish, sizes 13” 16” 14” snare 22” bass with additional 13” Rogers Script Badge tom in MG finish. Getting this set was a must, though it needs a little TLC - I knew this was going to be fun to love!

I am lugged out as I have just started to strip the kit by hand. Nothing powered is getting near this kit.
Initially, I was apprehensive and undecided on full scale inspection and cleaning myself, but my prideful curiosity got to me.
Spending more time in the basement with these mostly working from home, I got stir crazy and wanted to see what I could get into. So the last hour until now, I have stripped the lugs on the 13” 16” 14” Eagle Badge snare.

The bass is probably going to get stripped and inspected tomorrow.
The 13” Rogers Script Badge tom will be a project in itself, as an area or two of wrap under the lugs are peeling. I may need to send out for professional assistance on that one.

For cleaning advice, I spoke to quite alot of vintage drum shops drum repair departments across the U.S. on how to approach this project with kid gloves so to speak.

Most things were easy to remove, but I’m having a time removing the mufflers because of the wing nuts in such a tight space, and I’m needing a break.

Once the small bits were removed, being a kit being 60+ years, mostly everything is in ok shape - about %20-25 of bnb lugs are cracked, as expected. I may put them back on for now, and continue researching, but don’t think they make repro in this style. For this kit, it may be even more scarce and pricey as they are the littler bnb or “peanut” lugs predating the “more common” bnbs.
In researching the phenomenon, I found out bnbs were flawed in that they were plated, not molded; and, weren’t inserts but rather plush on outside of shells. That’s why the stressed fractures especially when cranking them.

As far as wraps condition, seams are tight, color is vibrant besides the yellow hue, some lugs and knobby areas have adhesive prints. I have Novus 1 and or 2 that I’ll apply on a small surface to start with.
So far the floor tom (being the oldest or earliest in serial number sequence) is in the worst shape.
For the floor tom, lugs are greenish, lug is missing 1 screw with lock washer, rim is rusted on bottom, I’m guessing from cocktail pedal bites; and, knobbys had some adhesive. (I had to be careful when removing, putting toilet paper over a small computer tablet slim Jim to pry.) Also, there’s splinting at a small portion of the bearing edge that I may have to lightly sand over, and then I’ll apply Beeswax for smooth and coat.

I may be doing Gods work or the work of the devil.

Here are some pics for now stay tuned and thanks for checking it out:
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MrInsanePolack

Platinum Member
Most things were easy to remove, but I’m having a time removing the mufflers because of the wing nuts in such a tight space, and I’m needing a break.
I'm assuming you are talking about inside the muffler body. If it is a typical wingnut, dont try to grab it, rather make the space smaller so the wingnut cant turn. Put a butter knife or chisel in there and turn the knob.

Also, if there are any stuck nuts or screws, spray a q-tip with PB Blaster and coat the nut with it. Let it sit for a few minutes and it should let go. That stuff is amazing on rusty fasteners. Just don't spray the drums directly! I have no idea what it does to wood.
 

Old Dog new Cans

Senior Member
I've not bought drums where I planned on salvaging the wrap. Your approach is much different than mine. But, I get it. I really dig that wrap! Someone else had posted something similar recently.

I'm very curious to hear what the vintage drum shops suggested for cleaning. I don't plan on stopping this restoration thing I've been doing lately. I tend to use things I have available already.

Great project.
 

Ransan

Senior Member
I'm assuming you are talking about inside the muffler body. If it is a typical wingnut, dont try to grab it, rather make the space smaller so the wingnut cant turn. Put a butter knife or chisel in there and turn the knob.

Also, if there are any stuck nuts or screws, spray a q-tip with PB Blaster and coat the nut with it. Let it sit for a few minutes and it should let go. That stuff is amazing on rusty fasteners. Just don't spray the drums directly! I have no idea what it does to wood.
Thanks MIP, I did try the first method by inserting a small set screw driver as a wedge but the whole muffler bracket was torquing in a way that made me stop at the time.

I may try the second method thanks for your tip and feedback! I really need to remove the floor tom muffler it is oxidized like an underwater shipwreck for some reason. The kit is from the East coast, mainly NJ and and floor tom has reso head from Creative Music in MA, so there could be that type of humidity exposure, I’m not sure though, it really worked the chrome over though.
 

Ransan

Senior Member
I've not bought drums where I planned on salvaging the wrap. Your approach is much different than mine. But, I get it. I really dig that wrap! Someone else had posted something similar recently.

I'm very curious to hear what the vintage drum shops suggested for cleaning. I don't plan on stopping this restoration thing I've been doing lately. I tend to use things I have available already.

Great project.
Hi Old Dog new Cans, that might have been my post you ran into earlier this year.
As for smaller things, I’ve gotten snares, hardware and restored them as far as cleaning, obtaining components, tuning. I have to give it to @TK-421 for coaching me through my vintage Gretsch snare build, that also gave me little more confidence.

As far as cleaning advice you would not believe how many pro and vintage drum shops were willing to help me out. I pretty much took a consensus of what they were recommending, see below. I called as I didn’t want to damage the wrap and shells specifically during cleaning.

Noah from Maxwell in Chicago-land talked me up quite a bit. Chris from Revival initially gave me advice, also recommended flitz for chrome, then said he’d not even bother to restore after seeing some pics, his reasons were for preservation which I completely understand and fought within myself. I was even invited to Rogers Day and look at personal private collection from Dana Bentley himself! My wife and daughter are from Fresno, so may be possible in future at this time not sure though.

Here is the family of product that I am going to use.
First I will try Dawn with warm lightly dampened cloth to go over shells outside. Then Novus 1, hopefully, and not 2, so it can coat. The degreaser and metal brush are for rods and the like, chrome polish and 4 ought steel wool for rims and other light touches. Beeswax for bearing edge surfacing and coat, also don’t forget white lithium grease for rod lubricant - by most accounts NO DW 40!!!
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Ransan

Senior Member
After cleaning my shells I’m on to tension rods and chrome casings.
The tension rods I did in 2 rounds for 6 hours each.
1st round I used a half teaspoon of white vinegar, and degreaser, 1/4 diluted in hot water.
I then used a brass brush as it is softer than steel to run out remaining rust and stuck debris.

2nd round was just hot water and Dawn dish soap then same brushing. Next I put them under hot water in a strainer to rinse off dust and such. I finalized by drying each screw set, rod and washer individually before returning to their respective bins, that I cleaned as well.

The chrome casings were done with no waiting. In this case it was the infamous knobbys and tom collet, and rims. The rims came out great but I was really impressed with the knobbys, I’ve cleaned rims before.
For the process, I used steel wool for surfaces, nylon brush for hard to reach places, and the chrome rust remover and polish. I then cleaned off with microfiber - note how well they turned out. Now they feel glossy and sleek again, before they were coarse. For posterity, I left them in the same position in ‘before and afters’.
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The shells are just as clean and came out really nice; and, so far nothing wrap wise is chipping or coming off, no photos at this time maybe later.

I’m very fortunate to get to tear this kit down and clean myself, (I almost sent off to get done) as I am just in awe of how well Rogers hardware and ingenuity really was!


Stay tuned!
 
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Ransan

Senior Member
I have finished completely detailing my Rogers Kit.
It took a while and was well worth it as I enjoyed digging into this project.

Topping off the whole nine, I used beeswax to smooth rough edges and coat every bearing edge, as well as white lithium grease for rods.

The kit sounds very warm and open; and when I get it dialed in, it will be fun to play I can already tell.

Though I’ve cleaned it and got it ready to swing, there’s still some minor components I need to get.

As for the 13” MG Script tom that came with it, the wrap is peeling under a couple of lugs, so I may need to send in for pro restoration. That’s an entirely different project.

Thanks for checking it out -

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P.S. please don’t rib me on the snare head, I had to put a dot somewhere 🙂
 
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