Ludwig 1970s 3 ply WMP

J-W

Well-known member
Late 70's/early 80's .... Ludwig wrap ..... most accounts date this around '79 .... and buy '84 it was over. Buyers had started returning drums because the wrap was SHRINKING. Some drums were returned two or three times. So Ludwig's answer was to rivet the wrap seam to the shell. Problem was ..... that wasn't a cure. The wrap still shrunk ..... and now you had rivets and rivet holes as well. Ludwig switched from 3 ply to 6 ply shells in '76, so I don't think any 3 ply shells (drums OP has) were ever riveted.

Unfortunately I have the riveted wrap, but fortunately the wrap hasn't shrunk a bit. I figured it had to be an overkill remedy to lifting seams. Like someone at the factory had had enough of returns that they said, "F-it, we're riveting the damn things on!". I get wanting to make sure the seams don't lift or an attempt to stop shrinkage, but the location of the seam/rivets and badge are what puzzle me the most. My seams are dead center of the tom mount (where they would show the most) and the badges are directly opposite (facing me). It's the opposite of where they should be, IMO.
 

harryconway

Platinum Member
Unfortunately I have the riveted wrap, but fortunately the wrap hasn't shrunk a bit ..... My seams are dead center of the tom mount (where they would show the most) and the badges are directly opposite (facing me). It's the opposite of where they should be, IMO.
Sounds like your drums might have been built on a "Friday":LOL: Or possibly there were more toms originally, and so the badges were oriented to face forward then ..... but in their current placement, they are reversed.

I had some 6 ply from that era, but my addiction to the Natural Maple/Thermogloss finish saved me from the rivet curse. The down side ..... the wood finish cost more.
 

J-W

Well-known member
Or possibly there were more toms originally, and so the badges were oriented to face forward then ..... but in their current placement, they are reversed.

The badges are located exactly 180 degrees from the tom mount, so there is no way they could face out, no matter how you arrange them unless the tom tubes inserted in from the drummer's side of the kit.
Like you said, they must have been made very late in the day on Friday.........and after a "smoke" break.
 

Winston_Wolf

Platinum Member
That's so strange. At one time Ludwig drilled for the tom mount 180* from the badge, but I thought they had stopped that well before the rivet wrap era.

I have some concert toms that have riveted wraps, but the seams are 180* from the badge and the tom mounts are drilled traditionally right or left as compared to the badge.
 

harryconway

Platinum Member
The badges are located exactly 180 degrees from the tom mount, so there is no way they could face out, no matter how you arrange them unless the tom tubes inserted in from the drummer's side of the kit.
Like you said, they must have been made very late in the day on Friday.........and after a "smoke" break.
The Tai-stick WAS killer then !!!:LOL: So I've been told;)
 

J-W

Well-known member
That's so strange. At one time Ludwig drilled for the tom mount 180* from the badge, but I thought they had stopped that well before the rivet wrap era.

Apparently not.
The badges 180 degrees from the seam makes perfect sense. And the rivets wouldn't be so bad had the seam been on the inside, but to put the mount right on the seam makes absolutely no sense. All 5 toms have consecutive serial numbers so I'm assuming the kit was ordered.

The Tai-stick WAS killer then !!!:LOL: So I've been told;)

It certainly was. But nothing compared to what's available today................... So I've been told. ;)
 

larryace

"Uncle Larry"
There's good yellowing and bad yellowing. Judging from that pic, Keegan got a a hold of some "good" yellowing.

I wouldn't even bother to unyellow it, even though you could. It looks really great as is IMO.

I had a 76 WMP Ludwig set with "bad" yellowing, so I unyellowed it.
 

IBitePrettyHard

Senior Member
There's good yellowing and bad yellowing. Judging from that pic, Keegan got a a hold of some "good" yellowing.

I wouldn't even bother to unyellow it, even though you could. It looks really great as is IMO.

I had a 76 WMP Ludwig set with "bad" yellowing, so I unyellowed it.
I didn't know there was good yellowing. :unsure:
 

Keegan Hammond

Junior Member
There's good yellowing and bad yellowing. Judging from that pic, Keegan got a a hold of some "good" yellowing.

I wouldn't even bother to unyellow it, even though you could. It looks really great as is IMO.

I had a 76 WMP Ludwig set with "bad" yellowing, so I unyellowed it.

Hello Larry,

Thanks for the original reply regarding the whitening of the wrap, I will definitely take that into consideration. A cream colour would definitely be the best way to describe it's current colour.
 

Keegan Hammond

Junior Member
Wow, beautiful drum kit. Congratulations. I'm sure they look and sound better with single ply coated heads on the toms ;)

Thanks for the reply! I purchased them with the pinstripes on batter and G1/Ambassadors on reso. I'm using them in my basic home recording setup, with blues/classic rock/country/funk being the usual genres that I use them for. Coated over clear ambassador seems to be a popular opinion on head choice for these kits. What are everyone's thoughts?
 
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