Kick Drum Hoop Protection

hippy chip

Silver Member
I take a piece of vinyl hose and slide it on the clamp---no adhesive on the hoop, nothing to fall off and get lost, and no hoop rash---I did get some funny looks when I walked into Home Depot with my pedal! A 2 foot piece cost about $5, and I have 23" more if it ever wears out.
 

Stixnergard2

Senior Member
I bought a kit that came with a pice of 3M branded tape, off the top of my head it might be called Safety Walk.
In the past I came across a skateboard shop on an industrial estate and bought a similiarly industrial sized piece of skateboard grip tape for a couple of pounds. I'm not sure I'll ever use it all but it's seen use on both sides of the hoop on several kits since I bought it many moons ago.
+1, I use grip tape on my kits. I buy 2" wide tape at hardware store by the foot.
 

Stroker

Platinum Member
Anyone tried leather protectors? There's a variety of different manufacturers that produce them, but for me the selling point is no adhesive, and no gritty sandpaper-like finish.

I'll be looking at these when the time comes.

 

GruntersDad

Administrator - Mayor
Staff member
Old belts work fine. They don't need to be four inches wide but only as wide as the pedal mount on top and bottom.
 

Stroker

Platinum Member
Old belts work fine. They don't need to be four inches wide but only as wide as the pedal mount on top and bottom.
Excellent suggestion, John! Thanks.

Under closer scrutiny, the Tackle Protector incorporates an adhesive backing, but I did find another comparable that looks as though it may not. I would think a straight friction joint would suffice to keep the pedal in place.

 

scorch whammin

Gold Member
Excellent suggestion, John! Thanks.

Under closer scrutiny, the Tackle Protector incorporates an adhesive backing, but I did find another comparable that looks as though it may not. I would think a straight friction joint would suffice to keep the pedal in place.
I posted about this one earlier...I've been using them for approx. 3 yrs.. they do use adhesive to stick to your hoop, but I've had no issues with this... although someone earlier the thread said the adhesive (upon removal of protector) took his veneer off..
 
Thread revival !!! As some here know I ordered and received my a tama starclassic bb. It’s a lacquer finish with black lacquer hoops . There is only slight scratching and marring where the pedal connects , and I want to protect it from any more damage .

So in the two years since this thread has ended , any reports of what you were using that has actually .....

1 worked
2 didn’t cause damage by itself ( like when it had to be pulled if and replaced due to wear.
3 kept the pedal in place
4 not had any adhesive but worked and protected .

Not really concerned how it looks since no one really sees it .

I have seen mentioned in this thread leather pieces of belts and such . With no adhesive back and friction and pressure alone from pedal clamp ......,has that kept pedal in place with no side to side or twisting at clamp ?Was thinking this might happen as my kick is always angle slightly to the right. What all have you been using that has worked well ? Didn’t have this problem so much previously as I had metal hoops.

I’m thinking of using a piece of tanned deer hide ( leather) . Some I have are thinner or thicker than others , so I could mix and match thicknesses or use one piece , ..... whatever was needed , as to get a snug fit between clamp and hoop. But is the pressure and friction alone enough to stay in place . I am going to try this ( in a day or two) and I’ll let everyone know how it works. But in the meantime let’s hear some proven methods from the past few years .
 

fl.tom

Senior Member
I’ve successfully used sections of 1/8” sheet rubber(*) or leather to mimic the DRUMnBASE Hoop Protect 180 and Kenner Hoop Saver (previously discussed in this thread) without any adhesive. With modern pedal clamps and non-aggressive foot technique, I’ve had minimal problems with pedals slipping on a number of different hoop depths & thicknesses. The sections usually readily conform to the bottom side of the hoop (like the manufactured products), and cutting them a little long so the top side can be slightly wedged against the hoop & head collar helps keep the top corners laying flat.

I have also used Pearl’s HPP2 metal hoop protector -without- using the supplied screw. Here hoop thickness is more critical because I insert a thinner section of silicon (~1/16” thick) between the hoop and metal protector to provide additional compression & friction without damaging the hoop. I currently use this setup on a Sonor kit at one church and a Pearl kit (thick and wide hoops) at another with no problems. Again, lighter music so YMMV.

(*) silicone to minimize potential staining of some lacquers like nitrocellulose.
 
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