How to get rid of rust on rims?

JesusMySavior

Silver Member
Any special product to remove rust spots? Thanks
 
I was reading on another forum today about the same topic. They said to soak the hardware in Coca-Cola. I tried it with a bunch of lugs today and it worked perfectly.
 
Lightly use a brillo pad and coat the rim with 3and1 oil. Wd40 is ok too. You want to grease up the rim to avoid scratching. I'd never use tin foil on a rim.
 
Aluminum foil and water (or coke). Just use it like sand paper on the chrome ...

This is also my method and it works great and will not scratch your chrome. I then use Nevrdull to polish my chrome. I have not found a better method. It will remove rust to a reasonable and surprising result.

Never, EVER use brillo, a metal brush or sand paper on your aluminum. It WILL scratch your surfaces.
 
I use this and it works great:
t280_renewrx_allmetalpolish_1.jpg
 
Lightly use a brillo pad and coat the rim with 3and1 oil. Wd40 is ok too. You want to grease up the rim to avoid scratching. I'd never use tin foil on a rim.

No to the brillo pad.Steel wook WILL scratch chrome.Aluminum foil and coke work real well and the aluminum is way softer than steel wool.

Rince with warm water...completly and then...dry completely,,,this is very important.Then follow with a good quality metal polish like Flitz or a good automotive polish like Turtle wax above,which has a metal protectant in it.

I've been using this method for over 35 years and it's bulletproof.This is how pro drum refinishers clean chrome.None of my chrome has ever seen steel wool or Brillo soap pads.

Steve B
 
Okay, don't shoot me for saying this - but since we're soaking the rims in coke and not actually drinking it; can I use the off brand stuff or a quasi-Pepsi? ( Since some off brands copy Pepsi and not Coke) Is the rust fighting ingredient the same?

Just wondering if I indeed have to use genuine Mr. Cooooke.
 
Last edited:
Okay, don't shoot me for saying this - but since we're soaking the rims in coke and not actually drinking it; can I use the off brand stuff or a quasi-Pepsi? ( Since some off brands copy Pepsi and not Coke) Is the rust fighting ingredient the same?

Just wondering if I indeed have to use genuine Mr. Cooooke.

Just use water. It turns into a paste when you rub the chrome with the foil. Once you reach the paste stage, just wipe it off. It works extremely well and fast.
 
Lightly use a brillo pad and coat the rim with 3and1 oil. Wd40 is ok too. You want to grease up the rim to avoid scratching. I'd never use tin foil on a rim.

Aluminum foil will not damage your drum. You should try it some time.

A brillo pad will damage it every time. Every time.

I never tried generic soda on the aluminum foil lol but I dont see why it wouldnt work.

I have also let my tension rods soak in pepsi to a good result. I soaked them about an hour or so, replaced with new soda, rinse and repeat. After a few times I rubbed them with tin foil and then buffed with Nevrdull, which you can get at Walmart and works amazing, for like 5 bucks for a can of it.
 
Okay, don't shoot me for saying this - but since we're soaking the rims in coke and not actually drinking it; can I use the off brand stuff or a quasi-Pepsi? ( Since some off brands copy Pepsi and not Coke) Is the rust fighting ingredient the same?

Just wondering if I indeed have to use genuine Mr. Cooooke.

The phosphoric acid in the cola,works WAY better than water at neutralizing the rust,and yes cheap knock off diet coke works well.

Steve B
 
Got em soaking. One more question. I am so close to being able to use my good free floating lug rim ring and get rid of this old pos. I have one lug left. It's screwed into a screw with hex shaped collar but the collar is concealed. I was able to remove the other ones by sheer luck. The lug will not turn at ALL. I think it's rusted to it. So this is as far as I've got. Here's some pics. I have access to the inside of the tube but I can't push the bolt out far enough on the open side to get to it (its stuck there) and I can't twist the lug off.

It's literally molded in place. So... Liquid wrench, or...?

Open end with inaccessible hex collar, does not push through :

1978723_10152084830043759_9935524_n.jpg


Looking down tube lug towards bottom :

1551458_10152084831198759_730326089_n.jpg



Perspective shot side of rim :

1487250_10152084846688759_943893837_n.jpg
 
I scrunched up alfoil and cleaned up my sonor kit years ago but I think maybe I needed to put some product on it because I think it's coming back.
 
Got em soaking. One more question. I am so close to being able to use my good free floating lug rim ring and get rid of this old pos. I have one lug left. It's screwed into a screw with hex shaped collar but the collar is concealed. I was able to remove the other ones by sheer luck. The lug will not turn at ALL. I think it's rusted to it. So this is as far as I've got. Here's some pics. I have access to the inside of the tube but I can't push the bolt out far enough on the open side to get to it (its stuck there) and I can't twist the lug off.

It's literally molded in place. So... Liquid wrench, or...?

You might need to put a little shot of WD40 on the inside of the tube to penetrate the threads of the hex nut/bolt, and possibly use a strap wrench to grip the tube.
 
Well I got all of the lugs off the big drum but I had one FINAL lug on the small drum - I was so close, and it just wouldn't budge after several techniques and treatments of CRC. I decided to recoup my loss and take everything off the small free floater (including the strainers) and put them on the big one.

Also I got a lot of rust off the rims of the big free floater. Thanks again for all the tips I'll post pics tomorrow, it's terribly late!
 
I use Eagle One polish and a buffing wheel on my bench grinder.
 

Attachments

  • Eagle_One_1035605_5_Oz_Original_Nevr-Dull_Wadding_Polish.jpg
    Eagle_One_1035605_5_Oz_Original_Nevr-Dull_Wadding_Polish.jpg
    22.5 KB · Views: 8,231
I scrunched up alfoil and cleaned up my sonor kit years ago but I think maybe I needed to put some product on it because I think it's coming back.

If you are in a rust-prone area (high humidity) and you've had rust, it will return. The finish is broken and now rough. The only option, and best in my opinion, is to have the part(s) re-plated to new condition. If not a vintage kit, you can simply replace the hoop or lug or part easily.
 
Last edited:
If you use a good chrome polish on the chrome parts then you can hold off the rust a bit. I do that to all of my chrome parts after every cleaning. Just come back and buff the parts with a good micro-fiber cloth from time to time. It'll work just like it does on your car"s chrome. I grew up in the South and rust never rests down there! You just have to diligent.
 
Back
Top