How do you clean your hardware?

cbphoto

Gold Member
That's bad, so you've never managed to remove dust, hadn't you?
The kit wasn’t new when I bought it, but there was only minor spots of rust. Being only 10, I never even considered that I’d have to baby it like an old car. Within a few years the steel had simply blistered through the chrome, which would just flake off when I took a rag to it.
 

alex.56

Well-known member
I've used chrome polish on my hardware, as well as car wax on the shells. I haven't cleaned a cymbal in ages. Brass polish isn't the tool anymore, given the protective coating on the newer cymbals. Most of my drums are in both hard and soft cases. I'm a weekend warrior, when I have a gig which is rarely these days, so my cleaning regimen is a bit less than others.
I haven't cleaned a cymbal too, and I don't think I will bc if I fail it may changes sound and gets ruined. I also have drum cases, but i used to have gig near the sea and probably for this reason my kit is dirty. Thx
 

cbphoto

Gold Member
I agree with you, WD40 it's good but it doesn't remove rust, for the tension rods I use white lithium grease, but I have vaseline too so this time I'm gonna use it. Thank youu a lot!
I use a drop of light machine oil (10W) on the tip of the rod.
 

cbphoto

Gold Member
Yet another member category - "Active Member". Anyone know what that means?
 

rhumbagirl

Senior Member
So Alex.56 is a couple of posts away from "Well Known" status. Something tells me one's metabolism decreases once they transition away from "Active". Also interesting, Alex.56 can remain "Active" forever if he goes completely IN-active. LOL
 

alex.56

Well-known member
So Alex.56 is a couple of posts away from "Well Known" status. Something tells me one's metabolism decreases once they transition away from "Active". Also interesting, Alex.56 can remain "Active" forever if he goes completely IN-active. LOL
Probably yes, I can. As I saw in that thread there's a lot of confusion on these tags.
 

alex.56

Well-known member
Oh with the last comment I became a Well-known member. So if I spam lots of comments I can get the first title? XD 😂😂
 

rhumbagirl

Senior Member
Oh with the last comment I became a Well-known member. So if I spam lots of comments I can get the first title? XD 😂😂
I have no clue on what determines the member levels. Junior seems like the logical next step for you, although I don't know at what post level that is. It's possible that membership duration is a factor as well. Like maybe you have to be a member for a year before you can be considered Senior, regardless how many posts you have? Anyway, the top level is Platinum and all the members I've seen with this one have 1000's of post on their sleeve.
 

alex.56

Well-known member
I have no clue on what determines the member levels. Junior seems like the logical next step for you, although I don't know at what post level that is. It's possible that membership duration is a factor as well. Like maybe you have to be a member for a year before you can be considered Senior, regardless how many posts you have? Anyway, the top level is Platinum and all the members I've seen with this one have 1000's of post on their sleeve.
I have 45 posts, but yeah I'agree with you: it's not clear
 

KamaK

Platinum Member
For the hoops:

Clean them. Dry towel, followed by moist towel followed by dry towel.
Remove pits and rust. Water + Aluminum foil followed by a dry towel.
Protect them. Add a surface barrier. Whether it be wax, a poly mist, grease, whatever. You need a barrier between the air and the steel.

The steel hardware.
Clean them. Dry towel, followed by moist towel followed by dry towel.
Remove the rust. WD40 is fine for a tiny amount of surface rust. If the rust is significant, you will need vinegar/baking-soda/water baths.
Protect them. Add a surface barrier.
 

rhumbagirl

Senior Member
I have 45 posts, but yeah I'agree with you: it's not clear
Interesting that the more posts you accrue, the less stature you receive:

Active - hey you're moving, staying healthy, losing weight even
Well-known - you're sleeping around
Junior - you don't know which way is up
 
Look at the photos in this thread( post #15 and #19) of my 68 Ludwig Supra and my 70’s Ludwig chrome o wood toms done with foil and water . The Supra shell itself had some rust , hoops were worse with the strainer and throw off being the worst . The toms weren’t much better . They came out great and far better than I expected 🙌🏻👍🏻. You’ll be pleasantly surprised with the results 👌🏻

 
I use Windex for light cleaning of chrome. For heavy cleaning/rust, I use Noxon 7 Metal Polish, or, Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. Then I might go over it with car wax if I have time. I try to stay away from harsh methods such as steel wool when dealing with rust.

 

alex.56

Well-known member
For the hoops:

Clean them. Dry towel, followed by moist towel followed by dry towel.
Remove pits and rust. Water + Aluminum foil followed by a dry towel.
Protect them. Add a surface barrier. Whether it be wax, a poly mist, grease, whatever. You need a barrier between the air and the steel.

The steel hardware.
Clean them. Dry towel, followed by moist towel followed by dry towel.
Remove the rust. WD40 is fine for a tiny amount of surface rust. If the rust is significant, you will need vinegar/baking-soda/water baths.
Protect them. Add a surface barrier.
Thank you!!! What do you use to protect'em?
 

bud7h4

Silver Member
Dust and fingerprints are the debil. Not because they're ugly but because they could lead to more problematic . . . . . problems. I try to keep everything dusted and fingerprint free. I don't actually clean anything except my pedals. And I try to keep tension rods lubed.
 

KamaK

Platinum Member
Thank you!!! What do you use to protect'em?
Ultimately, anything is better than nothing.

If I have no time or ambition, I'll grab a zip-lock sandwich bag, toss the tension rods in, douche blast with WD40, and jostle them about like i'm making shake-n-bake.

Poly mist is something you do if you have a paint/finish booth already set up. Zildjian does this on their shiny cymbals. This is not something you can do well with a rattle-can. I might consider this for those old-school lugs that run the full length of the drum or a hoop, but not for the tension rods. Best for large pieces. Not something you'd use for mechanical/threaded parts.

Neutral waxes, such as many automotive waxes, also work. There's a bit of a labor requirement and it can be messy.

Most time, I will use a rag and a neutral petroleum. I used "3-in-1" brand hinge oil last time I de-rusted tension rods.
 
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