ZildjianMan1023
Silver Member
stage star-mahogany
swingstar-mahogany
imperialstar -poplar -todays model at least
the 80s might be mahogany
swingstar-mahogany
imperialstar -poplar -todays model at least
the 80s might be mahogany
"Big Beat" and "Hollywood" were names Ludwig gave to their 22-12-13-16 kits.intheruff said:Elvis, I appreciate that web site to get the pr wrap. I'll need some for the base d hoops. Some other divits I'll leave to retain what it is they are. Like Harry said, they're a 'players' kit, and that they'll remain. But, the restore will have em' looking great. I've only seen one other kit with that finish. I almost remember the days from which their look capture... lol.
Big Beat or Hollywood? Not sure I follow. However, let me guess and say Hollywood NOT! And, I believe Big beat was before I played, I think... haha. It was Mitch Mitchell and the like that got me playing.
I curious about your big fluffy beater. No thud there.
You mean Birch/basswood/birch.Wood is overrated. It's maybe 20% of a drum's sound. They were replaced by Visions, which come in three types: all birch, all maple, and birch-poplar-birch.
You mean Birch/basswood/birch.
Wood is overrated? Tell that to my Renoun African Mahogany Purewood kit!
I keep telling people that I have never had a problem distinguishing between cheap soft wood drums and quality wood, especially bubinga and African mahogany vs all poplar or basswood drums. The same thickness shells sound quite different between woods.
I am sure there are exceptions and ways around that.
A poplar export kit might go "boom" but an African Mahogany kit goes *BOOM*
I don't either..there IS a difference! Wood density plays a sizeable role in a drum's sound as does the bearing edge and head (batter and reso) maybe it is 20%!? Case in point: All I know is that between the Gretsch Catalina club mod I have spent a bit of time playing around with (Mahogany..prolly Luan) and The new Purewood AFRICAN mahogany The difference is astounding! With all due respect to dtd, We are talking high end drums with the purewoods and..well not so high end with the Clubs..so in this case wood makes a HUGE difference! The African mahogany set will shake the walls. Absolutely amazing sounding drums!
I've always felt that whatever medium the shell is made from sets the basic overall "sound characteristic" that will eminate from the drum, regardless of the other factors involved with its sound.
Its like they used to say about recording Maple shelled drums - "No matter what you do, Maple will always sound like Maple".
If that's not enough for you, compare like sized drums, set up as alike as possible, but made from widely different mediums, such as wood vs. metal.
Even a "warm" sounding metal, like Bronze, is going to give a drum a different basic overall sound characteristic compared to the same thing made from even a "cold" sounding wood, such as Luan.
The problem I think we run into is not recognizing the fact that some mediums will imitate others, and thus its harder to "catagorize" every different type into it own neat little "pigeon hole".
Its been said that Basswood and Poplar tend to accentuate similar frequency's as Maple does.....maybe this is why we saw (still see?) a plethora of shells made for "cost effective" drumkits composed out of a combination of those any 2 of those 3 wood types.
...and the Gretsch Catalina Club kits are 100% Luan. So if you see them listed as being made from Mahogany, its more "Mahogany", than Mahogany.
Elvis
Think if it were a steel shelled drum, of that thickness.
It would be like playing a heavy steel pipe. Do you think that drum would have the same characteristics as the thick wood shelled drum you heard last weekend?
Elvis
...and that's my point and the point of this part of the thread.
WHAT the shell is made of does have an effect on the sound.
Very good, you get a gold star for the day. =)
To both your point. I just performed a completely unscientific experiment, but it was interesting anyway. I took similarly worn Evan Hydraulics and mounted them on 13' Tama and Ludwig shells. Both drums were identical other than the wood... eight inch depth and same rim and lugs. I spent nearly an hour doing the best i could to get them tuned 'identical'. One issue that hasn't been mentioned was whether the opinions you expressed were based on whether the shells had a resonant head or not, presuse they did. My test was on concert toms, so they didn't have a resonate head and I'd guess the type of batter used would have the most profound effect on the drums sound. However, after getting all the buzzes and rattles taken care of, and spending about a half hour hitting the drums and listening from arms length and from both sides of the head, I determined (drums roll please) Psffffst!... that both drums have a similar attack that I couldn't really tell the difference between the two, however again, the Tama's had a sustain that outlasted the Ludwigs by a noticable length of time, albeit quite miniscule in reality. So, as far as I'm concerned, based on this elementary experiment and my experience on those Ayottes mentioned earlier, count me in the school that believes wood at least makes some difference... and why shouldn't it? I'd still like to hear from a recording tech on this matter. I wonder what kind of drums have that African wood someone mentioned earlier?
If your Ludwig's were about 2 or 3 years older, I'd say you have some Mahogany drums yourself, but your shells use the Maple/Poplar/Maple layup.I wonder what kind of drums have that African wood someone mentioned earlier?
So we're in agreement. Good.I answered that way on purpose. There is another thread that says basically, wood doesn't matter.
My point was that I can easily hear the difference between a yamaha oak and a pearl export or a PDP basswood and SC bubinga. The counterpoint was that certain other were convinced that it wasn't the wood, it was other factors.