Hardware DIY/Mods/Repairs Thread

hi there. inspired by this thread, http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47780
i have started thinking the possibility to make a custom footboard for my pearl eliminator 2000. to make it longboard.
so id like to ask if anyone has done that before. what kind of aluminum i should use, thickness etc, what kind of hinges i should get, how long is it advised to get the board etc. axis board is said to be 12 inch long. that is 30 cm. my eliminators are 25 cm long. so is that extra 5 cm enough or perhaps i should try and make it something like 35 cms long? is that excessive?
i dont want the longboard for heel toe action like many want, i can play perfectly in my current pedals. mostly i was thinking about it for my hi hat pedal(also an eliminator) in which i cant to foot splashes without my fingers hitting the hi hat stand...and since i would do one footboard i could just do 3 of them. any advise would be more than welcome. thank you
 
hi there. inspired by this thread, http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47780
i have started thinking the possibility to make a custom footboard for my pearl eliminator 2000. to make it longboard.
so id like to ask if anyone has done that before. what kind of aluminum i should use, thickness etc, what kind of hinges i should get, how long is it advised to get the board etc. axis board is said to be 12 inch long. that is 30 cm. my eliminators are 25 cm long. so is that extra 5 cm enough or perhaps i should try and make it something like 35 cms long? is that excessive?
i dont want the longboard for heel toe action like many want, i can play perfectly in my current pedals. mostly i was thinking about it for my hi hat pedal(also an eliminator) in which i cant to foot splashes without my fingers hitting the hi hat stand...and since i would do one footboard i could just do 3 of them. any advise would be more than welcome. thank you

It sounds like leaving an extra 5cm is reasonable.

But I'm not sure what you're trying to do. I don't understand how a longboard bass pedal plate is going to help your hihat?

Also, 1/8" thick aluminum should work perfectly. It's easy to cut and drill. What kinds of tools do you have?
 
It sounds like leaving an extra 5cm is reasonable.

But I'm not sure what you're trying to do. I don't understand how a longboard bass pedal plate is going to help your hihat?

Also, 1/8" thick aluminum should work perfectly. It's easy to cut and drill. What kinds of tools do you have?
the bass pedal plate is the same as the hi hat pedal plate as all my hardware are pearl eliminator. so i am thinking of making longboard all my pedals. my bouble bass drum pedal and my hi hat pedal. i dont have any tools ill have to go to someone who can do them. my bassist who is an architect, knowswhere i should go exactly. thank you for the 1/8 inch info. very useful
 
the bass pedal plate is the same as the hi hat pedal plate as all my hardware are pearl eliminator. so i am thinking of making longboard all my pedals. my bouble bass drum pedal and my hi hat pedal. i dont have any tools ill have to go to someone who can do them. my bassist who is an architect, knowswhere i should go exactly. thank you for the 1/8 inch info. very useful

OK, now I understand. You can see this post from a few years ago about how I converted a DW5000 to a longboard, if that helps.

CONVERSION OF STANDARD PEDAL TO LONGBOARD

Fourstrings lamented the ridiculous expense of DW longboard and I popped off about how I could convert a standard into a longboard - he called my bluff and I had to try it just to see if I could. Total cost: $2 in bolts, $5 in shop costs, $30 for labor, about two hours of time for work and planning. Basically, I removed the heel plate and joined it to the footboard with a gusset, then attached the hinge to the heel plate.

Pedal before the mod.
Long1.jpg


The hardest part was fabricating the gusset. I sawed off a chunk of half-inch-thick steel plate. It's overkill, but it's what I had handy and you will never ever have to worry about the gusset failing.
Long2.jpg


Careful measuring ensured the original dimensions would be carried over to the new pedal.
Long3.jpg


I drilled holes to mount it to the heel plate and foot plate (you can see the smoke from the burning thread oil).
Long4.jpg


As long as I was taking things apart, I cleaned and oiled the original hinge.
Long5.jpg


This is the only permanent modification I had to make to the pedal, drilling a couple of holes to re-mount the hinge. Other than this, the mod is completely reversible.
Long6.jpg


Putting it all together: checking the fit of the gusset.
Long7.jpg


Checking of the action of the pedal.
Long8.jpg


Once I confirmed the fit and function of the gusset, I disassembled everything for finishing. I ground the gusset edges smooth and cleaned off suface rust.
Long9.jpg


A coat of paint finished it.
Long10.jpg


During reassembly, I used a Dremel to grind off the bolts and make them flush with the surface of the footboard.
Long11.jpg


Some Loctite ensured the bolts will stay put.
Long12.jpg


The finished pedal.
Long13.jpg


As used in the set.
Long14.jpg


I have to admit I'm not too fond of the action of a longboard. I've strictly played a standard pedal for 25 years so the longboard feels weird. I imagine if I'd started with a longboard it would feel normal. So I will probably reverse this at some point, but at least I can say I did it and tried it out.
 
I saw an article about using the long swimming noodles for different things so I bought one for $1.00 and with the aid of a bread knife sliced a few of varying widths to use when stacking my snares. Thicker ones for between the drums and thin ones for under the snares to keep them from rattling when sitting on my shelf. Many more uses coming I'm sure.
 

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Since I know how impressed you guys are with my projects I decided to upload yet another.
This is a simple, inexpensive way, to clamp together odd angles of cut wood. I saw a product on the web that was 30.00 which gave me the idea. Already had the clamps so I spent 2.87 on a door hinge.
Pulled the pin from the hinge and set it aside. Clamp one side of the hinge to one piece of lumber and the other side of the hinge to the other. Then using a third clamp, clap the two hinge pieces together until the glue dries. I'm sure there are other methods, but this works, and I can use it for picture frames and maybe other drum or cajon builds. Enjoy.
 

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The question is, Name that percussion item. Just starting more to come.
 

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I saw an article about using the long swimming noodles for different things so I bought one for $1.00 and with the aid of a bread knife sliced a few of varying widths to use when stacking my snares. Thicker ones for between the drums and thin ones for under the snares to keep them from rattling when sitting on my shelf. Many more uses coming I'm sure.

That is so great,I'm of to the garage to tap into my noodle inventory,No Lie......
 
A-Customs, here is the finished product. I have yet to go to the Music Store to plug it in an amp to see what it sounds like. I glued a transducer guitar mic inside to pick up whatever sound. One of these days I will post a sound file.
 

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I made new hinges and footboards for my old Yamaha double pedal. The hinges had a ton of slop and I didn't like the angle of the footboard so I gathered up a few bearings,pins,clips and washers and machined everything.





















Added bonus: The last shot is of the pedal attached to my practice set I just picked up and the snare stand was missing a tube and tilt adjustment so I came up with that. Pedal and the snare stand both work great! :)
 
I hope that this is the right thread to post this to.

There are plenty of youtube videos about how to make some DIY sound isolation headphones. I had some Harbor Freight ear muffs laying around and I bought a cheap Walkman-style headset from Wal-mart. A drill, a hot-melt glue gun, and a little solder and this is what I got:



Not the greatest sound, but it works ok for letting me hear the metronome when I practice. I might try this again but with a longer cord and some better drivers. I'd probably paint the muffs black, too.
 
Hello Everyone...Long time lurker, first time poster.

I am having an issue with my Ludwig P86 Throwoff. I have 2 of them and the one on my main snare had two screws work their way out. Please see the attached image for reference.
They are a specific type of screws that seem to have a bushing of some sort around them. There are 4 all together, two on each side as indicated in the image.

I need to see if anyone has any insight into where I can get the screws and bushings? The screws I can find, the bushings I cannot.

Thanks in advance!
Ben
 

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Hello Everyone...Long time lurker, first time poster.

I am having an issue with my Ludwig P86 Throwoff. I have 2 of them and the one on my main snare had two screws work their way out. Please see the attached image for reference.
They are a specific type of screws that seem to have a bushing of some sort around them. There are 4 all together, two on each side as indicated in the image.

I need to see if anyone has any insight into where I can get the screws and bushings? The screws I can find, the bushings I cannot.

Thanks in advance!
Ben

I don't know where to get them but I just substituted short screws that fit that I had lying around. Worst part of the P-86, those little screws.
 
Hello Everyone...Long time lurker, first time poster.

I am having an issue with my Ludwig P86 Throwoff. I have 2 of them and the one on my main snare had two screws work their way out. Please see the attached image for reference.
They are a specific type of screws that seem to have a bushing of some sort around them. There are 4 all together, two on each side as indicated in the image.

I need to see if anyone has any insight into where I can get the screws and bushings? The screws I can find, the bushings I cannot.

Thanks in advance!
Ben

If the bushings are what I am thinking they are, go to Lowe's (or your favorite hardware store) and look for rubber washers.
 
I love modifying/making custom stuff!

Here's an adapter I had made to use my Trick driveshaft from my Powershifter with my Axis longboards.
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Combined Iron Cobra Wooden beaters with Sonic Hammers (Sonic Cobras? Iron Hammers? lol) and repainted the Axis logos in blue and added some grip tape.
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My current project is my Pearl Powershifter Elims - converted to direct drive and now working on making the beater angle/footboard height adjustments independent of one another.
 
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