Okay, I test-hammered the scraps of bronze that I cut off. I think I need a ball-peen hammer, because my claw hammer just seems to score the metal and not dent it enough. So yeah, it's not a round head like you said, just beveled.
It's different for each cymbal I'm afraid.Chip said:Is the a particular method of removing sustain?
Test it on the tip of your finger, then you have no hardware resonance.Also, do you have a stand without a felt on top to quick test the sound?
You have to relax on the grip, it's just like good drumming technique. Let the weight of the hammer do the work.And my hands tire quickly, is this normal?
Oh ok, haha, must have been that picture of a paiste dark dry ride, the one with craters in it!You have to relax on the grip, it's just like good drumming technique. Let the weight of the hammer do the work.
Sure, I've done quite a bit of them.jbomber said:Would you be interested in taking a stab at an 18" nickel-bronze crash or 22" nickel-bronze ride? I've have a several old Stanoples, Dynastars, Supers and Ludwig-Paiste standards that are hit and miss by themselves.J
You're mainly changing shape and tension. To change thickness by hammering you would have to hammer VERY much so the metal gets stretched. Which will alter the profile of the cymbal considerably or will create huge bumps.Chip said:When hammering, am I trying to alter the shape, thickness & structure?
Do you have some examples in your portfolio of Nickel-bronze recreations (or did I just miss them when I looked through your posted files)?Johan VDS said:Sure, I've done quite a bit of them.
That's trueRMS said:Basically I think the only way to for me to make this cymbal usable again, with my limitations, is to make it as trashy as possible.
No, you'll almost certainly break it. You need a lathe to make it thinner.Do you think I can hammer the heck out of it until it's thinner?
I'm afraid that is correct tooI've already hammered it a lot, not knowing what I was doing