Gretsch Renown Refurb

So I posted a thread a few months ago about having Precision cut down my Gretsch Renown Maple 18x22 kick drum to 13.5x22 and recut the edges to double roundover. Since then, I had Precision recut the bearing edges on the toms to double roundover (the 14 floor tom still has stock edges). I've got some 302 hoops on the way to complement the new edge profile on the toms. I've also upgraded to the Ludwig Atlas rail and tom mounts. No more RIMS system! I also upgraded from the Rewnown bass drum claws to the USA/Broadkaster/Brooklyn die cast claws.

I did the finishing work myself. I sanded off the poly topcoat and fade (it used to have the "Autumn Burst" finish) and I applied a cherry danish oil finish on the shells and a natural danish oil finish on the hoops. I'll give it a few weeks to cure and then I'll tear everything apart one more time and apply Briwax to the shells and hoops for a little added protection.

I'm calling this kit a "Renownkaster" because it incorporates elements of both the Renown Maple and the Broadkaster. It still has the 100% hard maple shells, but it now has the double roundover bearing edges and the it will have the 302 hoops. It's also now in more traditional sizes not offered in the Renown line.
 

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TK-421

Senior Member
Looks very nice, but can you post a larger image so I can see it better? And hopefully right-side-up this time.

I also own a Renown with an 18x22 that I'm considering cutting down. Is 13.5" the deepest you can go without leaving any of the old lug holes? Also can you upload a side angle pic of the bass drum so I can get a better sense of what 13.5x22 looks like?
 
Looks very nice, but can you post a larger image so I can see it better? And hopefully right-side-up this time.

I also own a Renown with an 18x22 that I'm considering cutting down. Is 13.5" the deepest you can go without leaving any of the old lug holes? Also can you upload a side angle pic of the bass drum so I can get a better sense of what 13.5x22 looks like?
Okay. I was able to get the photos properly sized and oriented on my Mac. Don't know why it is so hard to do on a PC. Anyway, hope this helps.

If your kick is 18x22, you're not going to get to an even 14" depth unless you are willing to take two inches off each side, fill the holes for the bass drum spurs and redrill to move them back. If you are completely opposed to going shallower than 14", it would probably be easier to just have Precision make you a Keller shell with your Gretsch hardware. If you are refinishing the kit anyway, you can make it match the rest of the drums.
 

TK-421

Senior Member
Thanks for the new pics. It's funny how the kick looks a little deeper in the first pic, yet shallower in the second since you can actually see how deep it really is. In fact, that 13.5 is looking a little too shallow for my tastes, but I'm weirdly anal about that stuff. I'm sure it sounds great, probably a bit punchier and responsive than before?

Also, I'm not planning on refinishing my drums (they're piano black, which looks classy and timeless), I just was contemplating not having such a huge kick to lug around, and also reduce some of its boominess. I've also thought about shaving off 0.75 inches off both ends, which adds up to 1.5 inches overall, but would bring the heads and hoops a bit closer to the lugs. I don't think that would be too big of an issue (would probably need shorter tension rods though), but wouldn't likely make much of a difference in sound or portability.
 
Thanks for the new pics. It's funny how the kick looks a little deeper in the first pic, yet shallower in the second since you can actually see how deep it really is. In fact, that 13.5 is looking a little too shallow for my tastes, but I'm weirdly anal about that stuff. I'm sure it sounds great, probably a bit punchier and responsive than before?

Also, I'm not planning on refinishing my drums (they're piano black, which looks classy and timeless), I just was contemplating not having such a huge kick to lug around, and also reduce some of its boominess. I've also thought about shaving off 0.75 inches off both ends, which adds up to 1.5 inches overall, but would bring the heads and hoops a bit closer to the lugs. I don't think that would be too big of an issue (would probably need shorter tension rods though), but wouldn't likely make much of a difference in sound or portability.
I think one would be hard-pressed to tell the difference between my kick and a 14x22, which is a pretty standard size. When you're used to looking at a long 18" tube sticking out of the front of your kit, even a 16" kick looks weird. Different strokes for different folks.

I don't know that shaving off 1.5 inches is going to make enough difference to go through the time and expense. I would talk to someone who has a lot of experience cutting drums. Even .75 inches would probably require moving the lugs.

Sounds like you are after a 16x22. I'm sure you could find one in piano black to match your toms.
 
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