Ok, this is where I become most unpopular. That drum's a mess. It's clearly been re-wrapped to disguise the fact that the scalf joint has failed utterly. This is only a quick fix if you're satisfied with an end result that represents a typical below par condition drum of the era. If you really want that drum to sound it's best, there's a significant piece of work needed.
Really look at the picture. The scalf joint has failed across it's entire length. You can clearly see the strain/bulge under the wrap. It really wouldn't surprise me if the shell springs apart when you remove the wrap, as that's pretty much the only thing holding it together. Even when reworked, the bearing edges will need to be re cut. No big deal, but the exact match of the scalf joint is critical to the bearing edge. Another point, don't put epoxy anywhere near that shell. It's a modern adhesive that's not designed to work with wood outside of construction. It's too strong, & works by forming a layer bond between the wood faces. A high quality PVA is a much more satisfactory adhesive when working with wooden instruments. Although not as strong as epoxy, it's easily strong enough if applied correctly, and much more in line with the strength of the wood itself.
First off, check that shell for roundness (excluding deformation specific to the scalf joint failure). If the shell is warped, it's almost certainly not worth putting the work in. If in any doubt, consult a local drumsmith that really knows what he's doing. You can go the half measures route if you wish. Simply re bond the scalf joint, a quick sand of the bearing edges, re wrap, & away you go. Do that, & you'll end up with a playable drum. Do the job properly, & you'l have a great drum on your hands. If the shell is substantially warped, walk away.