Swapping parts between Yamaha FP9500c & Yamaha FP8500c pedals - how?

MrWriter

Active Member
Ok, this is a strange post but I'm hoping somebody on here might have done something similar and advise me on how to do it before I attempt this and, potentially, bugger up two expensive pedals.

I have a Yamaha FP9500c pedal that I bought just a month ago and I love it except one thing, the footboard is not quite long enough for me, I prefer a slightly longer footboard as, for me personally, it is easier to do heal/toe double-kicks.

So I heard that the Yamaha FP8500c has a longer footboard so I ordered one and just this morning took delivery of it and, yes, the footboard is 2cm longer - great. Both the 9500c and 8500c are structurally identical in every way except the longer footboard of the 8500C and the fact that the 9500C has the ability to adjust the footboard height independently from the beater angle as you can see in photos in the centre of the cam the 9500c has a drum key adjuster just to the left of the chain, something the 8500C does not have.

So, I figured I could simply swap the cams over so my 8500C will have the spec of the 9500C (i.e. independently adjustable footboard), but with the longer footboard of the 8500C. I figured while I'm at it I'll swap the double-beater of the 9500C with the regular round felt beater of the 8500C too.

I've just had a look and the complicated bit, it would appear, is the bearings on both sides of the main black metal frame and how to go about safely removing these without doing any damage.

I don't know of a local drum repair that would have the skills or knowledge to do this modification to both my pedals by swapping the two cams around and I don't want to break either, or both pedals while attempting it myself.

I know I'll also be left with a 9500C pedal that does not have independently adjustable footboard height and only a regular round felt beater - basically an 8500C, but with a 9500C footboard - but this is not too much of a concern as I'm sure somebody will buy it.

So, anybody else attempted anything like this or know how the cams and bearings can be easily removed without breaking anything and is it a simple job? I'm fairly good at this sort of stuff, but figured I'd ask some advice to avoid disaster.
 
There are hex set screws on the front of the pedal holding in some bearing caps/sleeves. Back those out. remove spring and assembly from the shaft. Loosen the set screws on the beater and chain assembly as well, then remove the large nut on the left side of the pedal holding the shaft. With any luck, the whole thing slides apart easy at this point. If not, use a wooden dowel against the threaded side of the shaft and gently tap out with a hammer.
 
What @AzHeat said. Here are pics that point to the parts:

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The big arrow in the bottom pic points at the ring the cam sits on. It needs to come off too, probably allen screws.
 
Ok, mine is like this, but won't budge. Here are some photos I just put together. Seven photos, hopefully in order.
 

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The rings, those are bearing collars. They just hold the bearings in place. With a bit of maneuvering they should pop right out

You also need to remove the chain before moving the hex shaft back and forth. It dont bend that way.

You can use a wood block and hammer to coerce the shaft if needed.
 
Dave, ok regarding chain, I'll remove it so it does not bend. My main concern is the bearings. So how do I get those collars out, the metal ring looking parts, as they are inside the black cast alloy frame so no way to knock them out with a wood block.
 
Dave, ok regarding chain, I'll remove it so it does not bend. My main concern is the bearings. So how do I get those collars out, the metal ring looking parts, as they are inside the black cast alloy frame so no way to knock them out with a wood block.
If you put a wood block on the end of the hex shaft and tap it, the shaft should move enough to push the bearing, which in turn will move the collar.

You shouldnt have to punish it, just tap it so it starts moving.
 
Dave, sorry to be dumb. Where exactly do I place the wood block? On the end of the hex shaft that is sticking out? Then I just tap it gently and it will push the bearing ring out the from the opposite side?
 
Dave, sorry to be dumb. Where exactly do I place the wood block? On the end of the hex shaft that is sticking out? Then I just tap it gently and it will push the bearing ring out the from the opposite side?
Yes, that is exactly right. You arent dumb either. Nothing wrong with asking.
 
Before I source a piece of wood and start tapping. I understand I'll tap on the end sticking out to lose the ring at the other end, but once that is out there is nothing sticking out on the other end for me to tap with said wood and hammer?
 
If you tap on the left, it pushes out the right side. Once the right side bearing is out the shaft will come out too.
 
Ok, I tapped the sticking out section of the hex and both the retaining bearing rings fell out, but no matter how hard I hit the sticking out section, nothing is moving at all and I feel like the frame will buckle and break if I hit it any harder, they are going nowhere. See photos.
 

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You can't hammer it as if you hammer from one end you are attempting to hammer the far end out, but the nearest end is been pushed in harder, and vice-versa. Both have to be 'pulled' out from the hole, but there is no tool on the planet to do that. I suspect the way they are made in the factory, pushed in with an industrial press, is in a way that they do not come out and if a bearing goes, buy a new pedal.
 
Ok, duh, I should have figured this out earlier. I've put it all back together because there was a simpler way. I only need the longer pedal board from the 8500 and on the bottom of both there are three Philips screws that hold the baseplate to the main part of the pedal so all I have to do is undo the thee screws on the base at the front and undo the chain from the bottom of the footboard, slide it off and put the longer footboard there instead. Thing is, the three screws are so darn tight they are impossible to undue. I've tried pushing the pedal up against a wall and leaning into it with a heavy duty large handle Philips screwdriver, but they won't budge at all - any ideas on how to loosen the three Philips screws on the base?
 
If they are pressed in there than that's a first. These things are built by hand.

Just for gits & shingles I took apart a Mapex pedal I'm not currently using. Took about 3 minutes:

20220926_151727.jpg

Gonna put it back together now...
 
Ok, duh, I should have figured this out earlier. I've put it all back together because there was a simpler way. I only need the longer pedal board from the 8500 and on the bottom of both there are three Philips screws that hold the baseplate to the main part of the pedal so all I have to do is undo the thee screws on the base at the front and undo the chain from the bottom of the footboard, slide it off and put the longer footboard there instead. Thing is, the three screws are so darn tight they are impossible to undue. I've tried pushing the pedal up against a wall and leaning into it with a heavy duty large handle Philips screwdriver, but they won't budge at all - any ideas on how to loosen the three Philips screws on the base?
If the base plates are a different size it will only push the front of the pedal forward and change the way it pulls on the cam.
 
Dave, your Mapex looks like the holes are tapered? Anyway, see my last post, there might be an easier way. Just need Arnold Schwarzenegger to help me undo the three screws on the bottom of the baseplate. Really appreciate you taking your Mapex apart though - to make me look like an idiot ;) joking. Really appreciated.
 
Not sure why a simple base plate and pedal board swap didn’t occur to me either. Not like I haven’t already done the same. Old age and senility!!! 🥺
 
Dave, your Mapex looks like the holes are tapered?
Doesnt matter. The interior are still milled to fit the bearing. I can go take it apart again and get you pictures.

I've taken about a dozen pedals down to nothing. Never have I needed a press.

The screws migh have thread locker and require heat.
 
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