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  #1  
Old 11-06-2012, 11:46 PM
richiejazz richiejazz is offline
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Default More DW 9000 design flaws

Had a few gripes with the design of these pedals.
For now I'm just wondering if anyone has any idea how the remove the screw on the footboard, allowing you to replace the chain with a strap and/or add the toe stopper. It's literally impossible! Any trade secrets would be welcome. I'm not keen about ramming a Bosch power drill through the screw to destroy it on a pedal this expensive!
Thanks
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:20 AM
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Terrence R Terrence R is offline
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Default Re: More DW 9000 design flaws

I'm not sure of the exact name of the tool u need, but I'm quite sure I know what it is. I got one with my Mastercraft impact socket set. The idea of it is to put the proper screw bit in it and hold it firmly in the screw head. Then, hit it hard with a hammer. It's like a " hand held impact punch". It's worked for me in several situations. I'll let u know if I think of the proper name for it. It won't damage the screw head or any part of your pedal if its used properly. If its the same as my DW4000, then you need a Phillips #3 screw bit to fit the screw head properly.
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:20 AM
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Default Re: More DW 9000 design flaws

They may have used Loc-Tite on the screw. If that is the case, I believe that heat loosens it up. Please verify this first before proceeding as I do not want you to accidentally cook your pedal!
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  #4  
Old 11-07-2012, 02:58 PM
wildbill wildbill is offline
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Default Re: More DW 9000 design flaws

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrence R View Post
I'm not sure of the exact name of the tool u need, but I'm quite sure I know what it is. I got one with my Mastercraft impact socket set. The idea of it is to put the proper screw bit in it and hold it firmly in the screw head. Then, hit it hard with a hammer. It's like a " hand held impact punch". It's worked for me in several situations. I'll let u know if I think of the proper name for it. It won't damage the screw head or any part of your pedal if its used properly. If its the same as my DW4000, then you need a Phillips #3 screw bit to fit the screw head properly.

Sounds like you're talking about an impact driver - http://www.levelchrome.com/Vessel-25...et-_p_217.html
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Old 11-07-2012, 07:17 PM
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Default Re: More DW 9000 design flaws

Wildbill, you're right! The name was on the tip of my tongue. I just couldn't spit it out. Thanx.
I had to use mine a couple days ago on a particular screw on a dirt bike motor I was rebuilding. They work great for extra tight screws, as long as u use the right bit.
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  #6  
Old 11-07-2012, 11:35 PM
richiejazz richiejazz is offline
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Default Re: More DW 9000 design flaws

Jeff, heat has done nothing. Aside from putting it in the oven I dont think theres much more I van do with it.

Thanks guys for the impact driver advice I'll try and get hold of one! I fear I may have already damaged the screw head but hopefully wont have to drill through the assembly to sort it!

Can't believe DW make it so difficult with these things!
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:20 AM
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Default Re: More DW 9000 design flaws

Welcome to the forum,

Would you happen to be doing the slide technique on these?
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  #8  
Old 11-08-2012, 01:43 AM
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Default Re: More DW 9000 design flaws

Failing the impact thing you could try loads of wd-40, leave it to soak over night then try undoing it the next day- it worked on the bolts on my cars exhaust manifold so imagine they are welded tighter than the DW9000 toe stopper.

I know exactly what you mean though I stripped mine the other day to clean it all and it was impossible to even budge a few mm let alone get it off. How ridiculous
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  #9  
Old 11-08-2012, 01:48 AM
moretulife
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Default Re: More DW 9000 design flaws

They lock tight all the screws in. I took my 5000's apart last year. It is tough, but with the right screw driver, and good hand strength, you should be able to get them to move. If you do use an impact driver, make sure you have good pressure on it, or you will strip the heads!
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:30 AM
richiejazz richiejazz is offline
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Default Re: More DW 9000 design flaws

Thanks Burn, I'm using Gibraltar lug oil at the mo and see if that works first.

Dont want to moan too much about these pedals - they're great but there are little things on DW hardware that annoy me given 'best hardware' status and the price. Accessibility of some of the wingnuts/tension bolts and the carry case design being a couple!
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  #11  
Old 12-20-2012, 10:06 PM
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Default Re: More DW 9000 design flaws

How much heat did you use? You have to use quite a bit of heat. Not hair dryer heat, but rather a heat gun or careful application of propane torch. Once you heat it up sufficiently the screw will come right out with normal screw removal torque required.
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  #12  
Old 12-20-2012, 11:36 PM
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Default Re: More DW 9000 design flaws

Do you mean the screw that goes through the footboard, the chain link, and then a hex nut on the other side? I just gripped the nut with a wrench and screwed away. Was more of a pain to assemble that small section again for the straps. The only design issue I have with these is that sometimes the hex head of the hammer key just will NOT align with the left side cam (the part you reach by sticking the key through a hole in the supports). Really frustrating until it works.
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  #13  
Old 01-06-2013, 03:50 PM
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KirbyM KirbyM is offline
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Default Re: More DW 9000 design flaws

richiejazz -

If you happen to use a cordless drill or other type of powered device, make sure that the pedal and any attached parts are firmly held in place when applying the power. If not, it could present all kinds of problems by turning or spinning everything around - possible cutting you.

Safety first !!
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  #14  
Old 01-08-2013, 04:55 AM
wildbill wildbill is offline
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Default Re: More DW 9000 design flaws

Well, richiejazz: did you get it?

I took the screw out to put the toe stop on like this: If you flip the pedal over and look at the nut, you'll see some plastic around the inside of the threads - it's a self-locking nut, and they hold pretty tight. It's not a 'design flaw'.

Anyways, try this - use the largest screwdriver that will fit tightly in the screw. Then take an adjustable wrench, and adjust it so it fits tightly on the handle of the screwdriver. Press down on the screwdriver handle while turning the wrench counter clockwise.
It should come out without too much trouble.

Heat won't do much, nor will lube, for a self locking nut.


And for abapicaltaenia: you must have a different design than I do, because there's no way I would be able to get a wrench on that small nut on the bottom. There's almost no clearance on the sides.

And I haven't had any problem lining up the wrench you put through the hole on the side. The bolt that the wrench goes into moves with the beater, so when you have the wrench through the hole, just move the beater a bit to line it up. I have a single pedal though, and I just read your post again and saw you have a double. I don't know how it works on those.
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