Snare Wires for Dynasonic?

[TableMuncher]

Hey everyone!
It's my first post here so go easy on me!

I've been loking around this forum for a few weeks now and finally decided it was time to set up an account!
And hopefully someone can help me out.

I joined a band in febuary (first band Naaaaawwhhh :P) and was presented with a Rogers Dynasonic which had been trashed and then put back together by people who have no idea what they are doing, it had random heads and a random snarewire. back then i still didnt know much about tuning so i left it to one side and used my snare (One that came with my beginner kit)

And so after a few months I decided to have a go at fixing this Dynasonic, so we all pitched in for new heads and now it has a Remo Coated Ambassador Batter (Spellt Right?) and a Remo Clear Ambassador for the Reso and it sounds much much better! but the snare wire is shocking, it just keeps resonating and throwing out random over tones.

I literally have no idea about snare wires, I think that its just a cheap snare wire, so maybe buying a higher quality wire will help?

The kind of music we play is Heavy rock, and i use ghost notes a lot! so I need something that will work for that kind of playing!

If money wasn't so tight I'd have bought a Mapex Black Widow by now, Love the sound of that snare but money won't allow it, so I need to make this Dynasonic work!

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

TM

[braincramp]

check for a set of dynasonic snares on ebay ..they usually have them

[TableMuncher]

I should have mentioned that it is missing the cage on the bottom!

Just checked eBay now and £36.99 is a bit steep D:

Cheers for the reply though

TM

[JohnPloughman]

Remo Ambassador Coated on top is fine.
Remo Ambassador SNARE SIDE on bottom is what you need.

And This.....................

[TableMuncher]

Thanks again for the reply!

im 80% sure that it is a snare reso, I didn't buy it :P
I was just handed it, so that could well be the problem :/

is the cage really needed? I've been told that I dont need it by my drum teacher. But we only discussed it for a few minuets

Cheers again!

TM

EDIT:- okay so it is definatly a snare side reso! also the bass player has found the cage for it! hopefully see if that makes a difference tomorrow!

[ecpietscheck]

any strainer would work, anyways, here is the one SPECIFICALLY made for that snare: http://www.indoorstorm.com/Puresound...ds-p-1388.html

[TableMuncher]

Thanks for the link! :)

Although in the UK it costs £37 with postage :(
I'm hoping the snare wire on this cage is okay, the bass player found it last night apparently

Cheers for the help guys :)

TM

[JohnPloughman]

When dealing with a Rogers Dynasonic Snare Drum, you are in a completely different world. ONLY snare wires specifically made for the Dynasonic snare frame fit. ONLY those wires will work on the frame. IF your frame has original Dynasonic wires that are in good shape, great. If not, you will NEED the Puresounds. You can use a regular snare wire set on your Dynasonic without the frame, but that limits the drum in its playability and response.

Remember, the Dynasonic has a 1/16" bearing edge. The Snare Bed, (yes, there is one), is only .004" and this is very slight by any measure of a snare bed. You will have more buzz with regular wires because they arent fitting the head properly.

The Dynasonic wires on the frame should be tensioned by HAND< >ONLY. Do not use a screw driver to tighten the tension screw. Proper snare tension is finger tight to make the snares "sing" on the frame. The Throw Off lever on the Dynasonic should be set as follows. Using the Throw Off Tensioning Knob, set the depth of the throw off to the mid point of adjustment. With the Lever engaged, CENTER the frame on the resonant head and clamp down the Butt side first, then pull the strings through the clamp on the Throw off side untill they snug the frame to the head. Put the drum on a snare stand, and then disengage and engage the throw off, to check for tightness. It should not be tight. With the Lever ENGAGED, Losen the tension on the frame with the Throw Off Tensioning Knob until there is no snare sound at all, then, tighten that tension knob until the frame comes up to the resonant head and just kisses the head, and then, just slightly more tension. Check your throw off lever for resistance while engaging and disengaging the Lever. This tension should NEVER be tight, or require force. Your frame will have some movement against the bottom head. The Dynasonic is designed to work exactly like this. You will have response right out to the bearing edge with the lightest tap of your sticks.

Overtensioning the Throw off Lever will cause damage to the Snare shell, and will cause a dent in the shell at the throw off location. Proper tension of the Snare Frame with the Throw off, and proper tension on the wires is imperative. Overtensioning will choke the drum cave in the shell, and unnecessarily stretches your wires.

[TableMuncher]

Originally Posted by JohnPloughman

When dealing with a Rogers Dynasonic Snare Drum, you are in a completely different world. ONLY snare wires specifically made for the Dynasonic snare frame fit. ONLY those wires will work on the frame. IF your frame has original Dynasonic wires that are in good shape, great. If not, you will NEED the Puresounds. You can use a regular snare wire set on your Dynasonic without the frame, but that limits the drum in its playability and response.

Remember, the Dynasonic has a 1/16" bearing edge. The Snare Bed, (yes, there is one), is only .004" and this is very slight by any measure of a snare bed. You will have more buzz with regular wires because they arent fitting the head properly.

The Dynasonic wires on the frame should be tensioned by HAND< >ONLY. Do not use a screw driver to tighten the tension screw. Proper snare tension is finger tight to make the snares "sing" on the frame. The Throw Off lever on the Dynasonic should be set as follows. Using the Throw Off Tensioning Knob, set the depth of the throw off to the mid point of adjustment. With the Lever engaged, CENTER the frame on the resonant head and clamp down the Butt side first, then pull the strings through the clamp on the Throw off side untill they snug the frame to the head. Put the drum on a snare stand, and then disengage and engage the throw off, to check for tightness. It should not be tight. With the Lever ENGAGED, Losen the tension on the frame with the Throw Off Tensioning Knob until there is no snare sound at all, then, tighten that tension knob until the frame comes up to the resonant head and just kisses the head, and then, just slightly more tension. Check your throw off lever for resistance while engaging and disengaging the Lever. This tension should NEVER be tight, or require force. Your frame will have some movement against the bottom head. The Dynasonic is designed to work exactly like this. You will have response right out to the bearing edge with the lightest tap of your sticks.

Overtensioning the Throw off Lever will cause damage to the Snare shell, and will cause a dent in the shell at the throw off location. Proper tension of the Snare Frame with the Throw off, and proper tension on the wires is imperative. Overtensioning will choke the drum cave in the shell, and unnecessarily stretches your wires.

Brilliant! Thanks for all the info! I'm going up to practice in a bit and will give it a look! :D
I have a feeling the cage won't work, because all pictures I've seen have a completly different bottom hoop :/

I will see whats what with it later on!

Thanks for the replies :)

TM

[JohnPloughman]

The pic of the two drums above are Dynasonics made in 1982-84. That bottom hoop was used from 1973/74-1984 at the end of Rogers USA production. The same hoop design was used during the post 1985-aprox. 1990 production of the Island Music Import Co's Rogers Dynasonic, which drum was of much lesser quality than the USA Rogers, and has no collectable value. As time progressed in that import production, parts became cheaper made and lesser quality, everything from shell materials to the size and style of the lugs changed. Some parts are interchangeable, some are not, and none are adequate replacements for a USA Rogers drum.
The dynasonic was introduced in 1961, first generation hoops are quite expensive and hard to come by, as a very limited number were produced. 2nd generation bottom hoops, with slight variations of the snare gate were used from aprox. 1964-1973/4. While still expensive, they are more common, and easier to find. The pic below are of the Rogers Dynasonic COB 5x14 from the Cleveland, Dayton, Fullerton Swivo and Fullerton Big R eras.

Left to Right. Big R, Fullerton Swivo, Dayton, Cleveland.





This pic shows a 1963 Cleveland Ohio era Dynasonic with first gen bottom hoop with guards removed



This pic is of a 1967 Seven Line Dayton Ohio Era Dynasonic with the snare gate guard in place.



This should give you an idea if your bottom hoop is a correct hoop for the drum.

[TableMuncher]

Ahh I see!
The bassist forgot the snare cage yesterday so couldnt check it out, but the bottom hoops I have look more like the 1963 Cleveland in the second to last picture, but now my minds playing tricks on me and I can't remember exactly how it looks.
If I get a chance I'll post up a picture tomorrow morning and see what it is :)

Thanks for all this info! This has to be one of the nicer more helpfull forums I've been on :)

Cheers

TM