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  #1  
Old 04-10-2008, 06:18 AM
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Default Iron Cobra Double Pedal

Hello everyone,

I have a pretty serious question here. I've had an Iron Cobra double pedal (the same one) for approx. 5 years. I have never done any kind of maintenance, at all, to the pedal. It has seen quite a bit of wear and tear over the years, from shows, from storage, to at a practice space seeing all kinds of uses. I'm just wondering what I should do make it seem a bit better. I notice there is no difference between any of the spring settings that I have set.

I know, I probably need new springs (for both left and right), but is there anything else any of you can think of that I might need to help breath some life back into these puppies? Or, should I just sell them and save up for some new pedals?
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Old 04-10-2008, 06:25 AM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

Quote:
Originally Posted by voldak View Post
Hello everyone,

I have a pretty serious question here. I've had an Iron Cobra double pedal (the same one) for approx. 5 years. I have never done any kind of maintenance, at all, to the pedal. It has seen quite a bit of wear and tear over the years, from shows, from storage, to at a practice space seeing all kinds of uses. I'm just wondering what I should do make it seem a bit better. I notice there is no difference between any of the spring settings that I have set.

I know, I probably need new springs (for both left and right), but is there anything else any of you can think of that I might need to help breath some life back into these puppies? Or, should I just sell them and save up for some new pedals?
Lube up everything with dwd-40.
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  #3  
Old 04-10-2008, 07:31 AM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

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Originally Posted by razorx View Post
Lube up everything with dwd-40.
Don't do this, whilst it's great for a short-term issue, WD-40 is corrosive. Use light sewing machine oil or similar to do this.
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  #4  
Old 04-10-2008, 09:02 AM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

I know, I probably need new springs (for both left and right), but is there anything else any of you can think of that I might need to help breath some life back into these puppies?

The bearings never see a full rotation (1/4 turns) so they wear unevenly if you have millions of hrs on the pedals. I don't know if the new'er IC's have sealed bearings, if so replace them (I would use unsealed bearings), they're pretty cheap. Unsealed bearings are much faster/smother.

If they're not 'sealed' bearings, I would rotate them, cleaning and lubing them first. The heel-hinge bearing and the spring holder bearing could be cleaned also. Dirt slows down bearings. Your pedal will play like new without the resistance, very noticable.

Clean/soak with a slovent, then lube with a teflon based lube. Check the springs 'after' you clean the bearings, you'll probably find they're still good to go.
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Old 04-10-2008, 02:17 PM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

WD-40 is not a lubricant so don't use it, it actually is the opposite. Are you feeling something weird in your pedals? New springs will bring life back to them, only reason I could see replacing the pedals is if you are feeling grinding from the bearings or something else wrong. I've had a set of DW5000's for 12 years and they've seen many miles of playing and they still feel great, I've got a set of 9000's now and it's not because the 5000's wore out but rather the newer design just felt better.
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  #6  
Old 04-10-2008, 05:05 PM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

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Originally Posted by konaboy View Post
Are you feeling something weird in your pedals?
Well..I have noticed for a while that it seems like no matter how I mess with the spring tension, it doesn't make a difference. The pedals seem that I have to exert a lot of energy to get them to hit the head. It's not so bad with my main/dominate foot. But, with my weaker foot it just seems like it's a lot of wasted energy.
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  #7  
Old 04-10-2008, 05:16 PM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

http://www.gizmosindustrial.com/serv...e-31482/Detail

that stuff is the lube I like...

Might wanna mess around with beater weights, could help you out.
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  #8  
Old 04-10-2008, 05:45 PM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

When I get me some lube/grease, which part of the pedal should I grease up? I had a buddy who, it seemed, would practically just pour grease/lube everywhere.
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  #9  
Old 04-13-2008, 11:29 AM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

Quote:
Originally Posted by voldak View Post
When I get me some lube/grease, which part of the pedal should I grease up? I had a buddy who, it seemed, would practically just pour grease/lube everywhere.

If your pedals are the 'stay at home' type and don't leave the house for gigging, you should be able to get away with just lubing. If you gig a lot and its been years, you may want to consider disassembly and cleaning the bearings, pretty easy on the new(er) IC's

Lube points below in pic, basically any bearing (noted) and any fastener with threads. Chain too, clean if dirty, then lube. Chain best taken off pedal and soaked, can use toothbrush, work stiff links with fingers. Might need to soak overnight if some links frozen.

You don't really want lube on the painted parts of the pedal, it'll help soften/weaken the paint then chipping happens. Hit moving parts. Spring(s) where it makes metal-metal contact etc.

These pedals really don''t wear out (save for the universal joints on the connecting shafts), they get dirty and this causes them to get slow(er). Dirty bearings are the biggest culprits.

.
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Last edited by Les Ismore; 04-13-2008 at 11:39 AM.
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  #10  
Old 04-14-2008, 12:26 AM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

Les, you are a great source of gear info!
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  #11  
Old 04-14-2008, 12:39 AM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

I totally agree with all of that except for the lubing of the chain, that will just make a mess where it is not needed. Unless the chain has some rust on it, I wouldn't mess with it.
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  #12  
Old 04-14-2008, 08:41 AM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

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Originally Posted by ironcobra View Post
I totally agree with all of that except for the lubing of the chain, that will just make a mess where it is not needed. Unless the chain has some rust on it, I wouldn't mess with it.


Chain(s) can look fine, but take chain off the pedal and a link or three can actually (easily) be frozen, or sticking. Its pretty common with chains. A frozen or 'sticky' links effects are noticed AFTER its been cleaned/freed and working smoothly because your playing adapts/adjusts to the freezing up process slowly as its happening. Unless each and every link in the chain is working smoothly, your technique is being compromised. Don't wait for rust, that's too late in the game.


Lube chain and wipe with rag, chains should 'always' be wet, but don't need to be dripping wet. Each link is a moving part that causes friction and most chain pedals do not get the maintanence they require, chains are a bitch and you need to keep on them, though they are easy to maintain compared to bearings.
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  #13  
Old 03-30-2010, 01:35 AM
drumerbuttsweat drumerbuttsweat is offline
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

The chart and info above is extremely helpfull!
I'm having the same issue with mIne after abou 5 years of heavy use (tourng, studio, rehearsal) my left is a little slugish now, th slave pedal.
What wld u recomend to use for cleaner?
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  #14  
Old 03-30-2010, 04:42 PM
614Drums 614Drums is offline
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

NOOOOOOO! DON'T LUBE THE THREADSSSSS!!!!!

That diagram is good, except for that part. You do not want to lube the threads on the connector rod, you'll be playing live and before you know it your slave pedal will fall off and you'll be stuck with 1 foot, it's not fun at all.
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  #15  
Old 03-30-2010, 08:14 PM
Thunderstix Thunderstix is offline
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

How can you order the original bearings? Tama uses Oiles® bearings but doesn't say which type. In general, where can you order spare parts? The round bolt on my para clamp is broken.

http://www.tamadrum.co.jp/product/ha...ar=2010&area=2
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  #16  
Old 03-31-2010, 05:28 AM
drumerbuttsweat drumerbuttsweat is offline
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

i actually have this double pedal, the "Chrome Cobra"
will the diagram above still apply to my pedals?
Also, i have some paiste cymbal cleaner, would that work well to rinse and clean the bearings with?
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/produ...dal?sku=443193
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  #17  
Old 04-03-2010, 09:20 AM
drumerbuttsweat drumerbuttsweat is offline
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Les Ismore View Post
If your pedals are the 'stay at home' type and don't leave the house for gigging, you should be able to get away with just lubing. If you gig a lot and its been years, you may want to consider disassembly and cleaning the bearings, pretty easy on the new(er) IC's

Lube points below in pic, basically any bearing (noted) and any fastener with threads. Chain too, clean if dirty, then lube. Chain best taken off pedal and soaked, can use toothbrush, work stiff links with fingers. Might need to soak overnight if some links frozen.

You don't really want lube on the painted parts of the pedal, it'll help soften/weaken the paint then chipping happens. Hit moving parts. Spring(s) where it makes metal-metal contact etc.

These pedals really don''t wear out (save for the universal joints on the connecting shafts), they get dirty and this causes them to get slow(er). Dirty bearings are the biggest culprits.

.

Soak in what? Dishsoap and water ok? Some specific cleaner fluid?
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  #18  
Old 04-03-2010, 10:26 PM
drumerbuttsweat drumerbuttsweat is offline
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

Quote:
Originally Posted by drumerbuttsweat View Post
Soak in what? Dishsoap and water ok? Some specific cleaner fluid?


Ok, well I tryed this and didnt help really, left (slave) pedal is really dragging compared to the right... cleaned with dishsoap and Used sewing mchine oil on the barings
not sure how to tell if they are sealed barings
maybe I'm just talking to myself here
but if any one has any suggestions would be great
thanx
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  #19  
Old 04-05-2010, 04:41 PM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

Over the years have tried different lubes. My preference is if in a VERY RARE situation a 'wet' lube is needed, then sewing machine light weight or oil used for air tools which Home Depot and others sell (or better still mechanical watch lube, but that is not really commercially available and can get to be very $$$$). My general preference is actually a 'dry' lubricant called DRI SLIDE (moly dry film lubricant) and is found at motorcycle shops. There are also Teflon-based dry lubes that also work well. It is generally used for lubing up the lines (brake, etc). It comes with an almost pinpoint metal applicant extension piece. As for where to lube, dry or wet, goes where... it is a judgement call and generally the dry wins and wet is VERY rarely used.

Wet also 'attracts and holds' dirt and debris. This dry lube also reminds me of lubricants used within top pro team road racing bicycle sports.

Keep in mind the above suggestions are for drums as temperatures are 'room' or thereabouts during normal operation. At 180F+ or below -20F temperatures there would be other suggestions.

------------------------------

FIRST you want to disassemble the parts and CLEAN THEM using brake cleaner (be in open air and it WILL eat away paint). If you have a parts washer machine all the better. Then apply lubricant SPARINGLY and wipe off excess. Reinstall parts, check for smooth operation and if you do not get smooth operation, replace. Bearing technology has come a long way over the decades yet depending on Rockwell hardness they can wear out faster/slower/never. If all is well/smooth then reassemble the item. It could be you have 'flat spots' and partially solve your problems by cleaning/relube PLUS use a different section of the bearings within the main 'pressure point' of the assembled product. Personally, i'd still replace the bearings than deal with flat spots band-aid yet when you are on the road and must have it work NOW until you can make a proper solution...
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Last edited by thtst; 04-07-2010 at 12:16 PM.
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  #20  
Old 04-06-2010, 12:29 AM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderstix View Post
How can you order the original bearings? Tama uses Oiles® bearings but doesn't say which type. In general, where can you order spare parts? The round bolt on my para clamp is broken.

http://www.tamadrum.co.jp/product/ha...ar=2010&area=2
You dealer can order the bearings for you.
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  #21  
Old 04-06-2010, 04:04 AM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

Quote:
Originally Posted by drumerbuttsweat View Post
Ok, well I tryed this and didnt help really, left (slave) pedal is really dragging compared to the right... cleaned with dishsoap and Used sewing mchine oil on the barings
not sure how to tell if they are sealed barings
maybe I'm just talking to myself here
but if any one has any suggestions would be great
thanx
Yes, brake cleaner will work fine.

TAMA doesn't have the shaft bearing special made, its stock stuff you can find at any bearing shop. The last time I replaced bearings on my CAMCO pedal (5 years ago?), it was like $7 a bearing at a bearing place. Im almost positive skateboard bearings will fit too, then you could look at an upgrade- ceramic bearings.

The Oiles (heel plate) bearing will do with just a clean, as its more specific and you probably won't find it at the bearing shop (but maybe) and it looks like TAMA doesn't sell that bearing separate.



NOOOOOOO! DON'T LUBE THE THREADSSSSS!!!!!

You do not want to lube the threads on the connector rod, you'll be playing live and before you know it your slave pedal will fall off and you'll be stuck with 1 foot, it's not fun at all.


Yes, testament to how cheap the TAMA shaft really is. Those threads should be lubed, but you'd probably be running the risk of over tightening (stripping out threads), or as stated, loosing screws at the gig if your threads are already weakened from use with no lube.

When you lube threads, they actually hold better and so you don't need to tighten as much.
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  #22  
Old 04-07-2010, 03:30 AM
Moxano Moxano is offline
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

Was going to make a thread of my own, when I saw this. Hope my questions won't annoy you guys. :)

So I'm borrowing the Iron Cobras for max 2 weeks. I either buy them or return them then. Today I tried them at home for the first time. They feel very good, so stable but oh so heavy! Can someone tell me what the big advantages are with using the Iron Cobras? In your opinion of course.

/Nisse! :D
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  #23  
Old 04-07-2010, 12:06 PM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

Big advantage, one bass drum yet two pedals. Apologies if that sounded overly obvious and was not trying to be obnoxious. Other than two pedals one bass drum, it comes down (in no particular order) to your feel preference, adjustability range, build quality, reliability and parts availability when/if it breaks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Les Ismore View Post
When you lube threads, they actually hold better and so you don't need to tighten as much.
This is where i find Loctite Blue (NEVER RED and Green to too weak) useful as it keeps things put while also offering a type of dry lube as it were. It also has the property of aiding screws in resisting from backing off. Loctite Blue is also easy to remove via brake cleaner on a FOAM 'q-tip' (NOT a normal cotton 'q-tip').
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Last edited by thtst; 04-07-2010 at 12:18 PM.
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  #24  
Old 10-12-2010, 01:01 AM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

Ok guys, I need your help on this if you can.

I found an Iron Cobra double pedal used, 1/2 year old and in good overall condition.

I talked him down from $280 to $250.

Is this a good deal if all the info is correct and what should I expect from these pedals in general?.

I only have a short period of time to act so your opinions would be greatly appreciated. :)

Thanks much, Homie
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  #25  
Old 10-12-2010, 09:19 AM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

Wow, nothing?. Hello, Anybody?.

Last edited by Homeularis; 10-12-2010 at 10:56 PM.
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  #26  
Old 10-14-2010, 06:54 AM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal


I found an Iron Cobra double pedal used, 1/2 year old and in good overall condition.

I talked him down from $280 to $250.



Not a good deal if you have to pay shipping.


This is where i find Loctite Blue (NEVER RED and Green to too weak) useful as it keeps things put while also offering a type of dry lube as it were.

LOCTITE is good, but not on connecting (drive) shaft screws, these screws need lube, if they back off when lubed, lightly file their ends so they grip the shaft better.
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  #27  
Old 10-14-2010, 08:14 AM
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Default Re: Iron Cobra Double Pedal

I already bought it for $220. Brought him down from $280. There was no shipping cost. We met 15 minutes away from my house.

They seem to be in good condition. At least a 7 out of 10 (maybe an 8) looks wise, and they seem to be in perfect working order (so far).

No one gave me any tips whatsoever, so I just started to weep uncontrollably :( .....JK.
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