T
TwoCables
Guest
I'm considering getting the Puresound Custom Pros for various reasons, but before I do, I am wondering if they're still suffering from the problem of the clip slipping through.
RickVandeven
Member
I have been using the Pursound Custom Pro snare wires for three months and have had no problem with the clip slipping through. Actually, I don't see how the clip could slip through without completely going through the reso head. I think it's a rock solid design so long as you follow the enclosed instructions.
I also like the gauge on the straps. It helps to install the wires evenly.
I will buy them again when I have to in 20 years.
I also like the gauge on the straps. It helps to install the wires evenly.
I will buy them again when I have to in 20 years.
T
TwoCables
Guest
Ah, so it's exactly like I thought: people weren't installing them correctly. Perhaps they made the assumption that they didn't need to follow the instructions.
Thank you, Rick!
Beam Me Up Scotty
Silver Member
I'll second what Rick said. The clips are solid, and if you assemble it correctly (how the hell do you assemble it incorrectly, anyways?) then you'll find there are no issues to be found. Wonderful snares.
T
TwoCables
Guest
Thank you! I just ordered one.
I had a feeling that it was just a matter of installing them correctly.
I had a feeling that it was just a matter of installing them correctly.
TColumbia37
Silver Member
On the subject, does anybody know where I can order just the straps and clips? I bought some Customs because my local GC was out of Custom Pros, and they come with the cables instead of straps. Had I known that, I would have ordered the Custom Pros, instead.
T
TwoCables
Guest
I wanted to know the same thing, and judging from the Puresound site, it unfortunately looks like this is all that would be available:
http://puresoundpercussion.com/PSPReplacementProducts.Page?ActiveID=4925
I was hooping to get just the strap and clip because that's really all I'm after. Although, I do love Puresound snares.
TColumbia37
Silver Member
Poo
I guess I'm ordering Custom Pros. I really want that quick change ability for when I tune my snare for different gigs.
Oh well. I can think of many worse ways to spend $20.
Is it true that they have discontinued the Equalizer series? I can't find them anywhere.
T
TwoCables
Guest
Poo
I guess I'm ordering Custom Pros. I really want that quick change ability for when I tune my snare for different gigs.
Different snare wires for different gigs? If so, then I might have a question for you because you might be able to teach me something useful.
I don't know.
TColumbia37
Silver Member
No, just different tunings. I can't get an accurate pitch from my snare side head with snares rattling all over it while I'm trying to tune, and I don't like doing the stick under the snares thing, because it just gets in the way. By all means, you could use different snare wires (different material or number of strands) to get different sounds, which could come in handy.
I found some on Ebay, but Guitar Center can't seem to get any in stock.
T
TwoCables
Guest
The stick gets in your way? If so, then loosen the snare wires even more so that you can freely move the stick anywhere. I put the stick in between the lugs and it's 100% out of the way. Before I flip the snare over, I loosen the adjustment screw almost all the way, meaning that it's so loose that the snares would barely touch the head if I were to put the throw-off back into the Up position. Then, with the snare upside down on my stand, I just put a stick underneath there making sure that it's not in the way of any lugs, and then I tune. So, it's actually very easy to make sure the stick isn't in the way.
Or, just turn the snare 90° so that either the butt-plate or the throw-off is facing you.
TColumbia37
Silver Member
The problem I run into with that is in my throw-off, I think. To get the snares loose enough that I can easily fit a stick between them and the rim, I have to back the throw-off all the way down, and then pull the cables out of the butt plate a little bit to give me the extra room. Then, when I'm done, I have to put the cables back where they were, otherwise, they'll still have that loose rattle against the head in the throw-off's tightest position. It's kind of weird explaining. It just seems that my throw-off doesn't have as wide of an adjustment as a lot of other ones. It's a cheap Mapex snare.
It also just annoys me to have to move the stick around depending on which lug I'm at. It's a ten lug snare, so it's hard to position it in one finite spot that is out of the way.
Really, I'm probably just being really picky and finding slight inconveniences to justify spending the money.
I think I may be buying a Tune-Bot today, anyway, so that'll tap me out on gear money for the week. You, of all people, should be in support of that decision.
T
TwoCables
Guest
Wow. Then either it's the throw-off, the length of the cables or straps, or it's how the snares are adjusted. That sucks.
I have a 10-lug snare too, but the stick can still be positioned in between two lugs on both sides, staying out of the way.
For $20.99 with free shipping from Musician's Friend, I'd say it's very worth it. You get high-quality snares with a really cool quick-release system and adjustment lines printed on the straps to help make it easier to get a perfect lateral adjustment. Of course, you would also get the benefit with this cheap snare of simply being able to remove the snare wires in just about 1-2 seconds instead of sliding a stick underneath. I can guarantee you that I'll be doing the same. I don't mind sliding a stick underneath, but why do that when I can just quickly take the snare wires off? lol This is going to be nice! To be honest, I didn't think about doing this until you mentioned it, so thank you for the good idea!
hehe You got that right!
TColumbia37
Silver Member
Haha. No problem. That has always been the reason I wanted that quick release system, but I never had a good reason for it.
Now that I've been drumming for two bands, but only have one snare, I need to be able to change tuning depending on which band it is. In the Ska band, I need the high pitched, ringy sound with the loud crack, but with the punk band, I need something a little more low and punchy to fill everything out. I found the perfect lower tuning with that drum tuner phone app, so I want to be able to do it quickly, depending on which band I'm playing with that night.
T
TwoCables
Guest
Oh, now I definitely have a learning opportunity here. What happens if you just change the tuning of the top head for these two bands, but you leave the snare side alone? That is, in terms of the sound with both bands.
TColumbia37
Silver Member
With all of my tuning, I like to keep both heads as close to the same pitch as possible (especially on toms). It just gives me a more open, resonant tone. You don't have different frequencies canceling each other out and such. For the longest time, I would just tune the snare side head really tight, and then tune the batter head to pitch, but I could never get a good lower tuning. When I tune them both to the same pitch, I get a great sounding, punchy snare with plenty of resonance and head decay. When I try a low tuning with the heads at separate pitches, I always seem to get a really choked sound, or there's some weird overtone that I can't seem to get rid of.
When I tune higher, I couldn't tell you of any difference, because I don't know. The tuning app I have only filters up to 500hz, and I tune it above that, so I just crank both the heads down a tune them to themselves. They're never both at the same frequency when I tune it high, but it's also a lot easier to get a good sound when tuning a snare that high. I really hope the tune bot goes above 500hz, so I can get a more accurate tuning of my snare when I tune it high.
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T
TwoCables
Guest
That app must work differently because with the tune-bot, 500 Hz would probably make the hoop flush with the bearing edge. lol Either that, or the lugs would pull up on the shell and cause damage.
For the tune-bot, a super high-pitched tuning would be roughly 350 Hz by the lugs on the batter side, and about 400 Hz on the snare side. At these lug-frequencies, the tension rods are tight, very much like when trying seat a drumhead. Again though, based on my experience with the tune-bot, I can tell you that 500 Hz would kill a drumhead or cause lug damage, or it would result in a sound so choked that the snare is completely useless, even for extremely weird avant-garde stuff (that's if the head doesn't pull out of the hoop when struck).
I would say that the tune-bot is quite different from a phone app because the phone app relies on the phone's microphone and the electronics for that mic whereas Overtone Labs claims this:
Although, I don't know what they mean by "advanced signal-processing techniques used in Radar, Sonar and Communication Systems" in order to develop the "patented algorithms applicable to drum frequency measurement".
So, I think my conclusion is that you'd just have to get used to different readings, like measure where the head is at according to the way the tune-bot reads the head, and then go from there.
TColumbia37
Silver Member
Funny you should mention that. My hoops do end up flush with the bearing edge after the heads have had a couple of months to stretch, so I change snare heads often (always before I end up damaging the bearing edge). I've been doing this on the same snare for as long as I've owned it (4+ years), and it has shown no damage. The shell , hoops, and lugs are all still in the same condition they were in when I bought it. The high tension does choke the heads out a little (Which is why I have my eye on a 13" snare), but not so much that it sounds bad. There's still resonance and head decay. The perfect amount, in my opinion.
But who knows? Maybe one day all of my lugs will pop at once. Even if they do today, I feel I've gotten my money's worth out of the thing, and it would just give me a good excuse to buy a new snare. I paid $150 brand new, and it has lasted this long, and frankly, it has sounded great the entire time.
T
TwoCables
Guest
I did the same thing with the cheap Yamaha Steel Snare that came with my Stage Customs back in 1997. The shell and the lugs were just fine though, but that's probably due to being steel and not wood. I always had the snare side so tight that the snare side hoop would be flush, and sometimes it would go so far that the bearing edge would stick out. I also had the batter head cranked as well.
Then, when I learned how to tune better, I stopped doing that and I actually ended up with quite a superior snare sound from that thing than I had before. I had no idea. I was merely trying to copy Carter Beauford's snare on the album Crash. To me, his snare sound was like a popcorn snare or something, but it was just a normal snare that he had tuned very high.
Well, here's what I was referring to, and it's kind of sad: I had a 14" x 4" Yamaha Maple Custom that I tried to tune the exact same way as that steel snare: heads cranked way beyond their musical limits, thinking that the sound was good. Well, the lugs were pulled closer to the bearing edge, quite noticeably. I effectively ruined that snare, and getting the lugs replaced was not an option because I damaged the holes too. So, not only were the lugs bent up and damaged, but so was the wood.
I miss that snare. I don't even know where it is, but it doesn't matter to me all that much because it's kind of useless now. It has a very nice bearing edge too.
Oh well. You live and learn.
TColumbia37
Silver Member
I did the same thing with the cheap Yamaha Steel Snare that came with my Stage Customs back in 1997. The shell and the lugs were just fine though, but that's probably due to being steel and not wood. I always had the snare side so tight that the snare side hoop would be flush, and sometimes it would go so far that the bearing edge would stick out. I also had the batter head cranked as well.
Then, when I learned how to tune better, I stopped doing that and I actually ended up with quite a superior snare sound from that thing than I had before. I had no idea. I was merely trying to copy Carter Beauford's snare on the album Crash. To me, his snare sound was like a popcorn snare or something, but it was just a normal snare that he had tuned very high.
Well, here's what I was referring to, and it's kind of sad: I had a 14" x 4" Yamaha Maple Custom that I tried to tune the exact same way as that steel snare: heads cranked way beyond their musical limits, thinking that the sound was good. Well, the lugs were pulled closer to the bearing edge, quite noticeably. I effectively ruined that snare, and getting the lugs replaced was not an option because I damaged the holes too. So, not only were the lugs bent up and damaged, but so was the wood.
I miss that snare. I don't even know where it is, but it doesn't matter to me all that much because it's kind of useless now. It has a very nice bearing edge too.
I've made the decision to start tuning my snare lower, in general, for one reason. I'm usually wearing ear muffs when I play, which cuts down on high frequencies. So the snare never sounds as high as it really is. I almost never hear my kit without them on. Well, I realized how insanely high pitched it really is, and it could definitely stand to come down a bit. I just picked up my tune bot, and tuned it to 366 on both heads when I got home. It sounds beautiful, and plenty high pitched