Rack tom on snare stand

I looked into the new Atlas stuff as well, that Classic snare stand looks great for a tom, flat based legs air filled rubber bottoms to give more resonance, I think I will look into one of those. Still $100, but the dw ones (which I want) is $160... Nice but man...
Anyways I like the look of that classic atlas luddy snare stand.
You think that would work well with a tom?
Here is the specs...
about $110.

http://www.ludwig-drums.com/atlas/classic_lac21ss.php
 
Decided to go with the trusted Pearl s1000. I have one already for the snare and I tried the Tom in it and it sings like it was mounted, great resonance. They are $110 and sturdy as anything!
So I have the answer to the Tom resonating in the snare stand ( which others have said ) rubber not plastic and a good quality stand.
Anyways going to buy another Pearl!
 
Well, I have the DW flat, and the one with the rubber tips works great, and I put the foam on the plastic tips of the other DW.
The DW 6000 FB has a geared tilter basket, and it's not all that adjustable. I just happen to like my tom kinda flat so it works for me fine.
That said, the universal tilter on the new Atlas is WAY more of what I really want, so I'm getting it.

Yeah, it does seem a little pricey looking at it like "it's just a flat base, not much of a big deal stand", but it does seem to be very well built from the vids, and the few comments I'm getting from people who have seen this Atlas stuff.
Still, it's really only 20 bucks more than the DW FB, and it's way more adjustable...

The nice thing for me is, everything I have on order (listed before I think) is paid for by selling those two snares I wasn't using, & I'm selling a couple more things too, so I'm not OOP for anything.

If you don't mind a heavier stand, I'd go for Pearls snare stand with the air suspension style clamps. That stand doesn't choke the drum at all. It's the 2000s I believe. There are 2 styles, one with the adjustable basket and one standard.

I think these Pearl stands are nicer than DW's (heavier stands)--unless you are matching other hardware.
The stand in Err's pic with the Tama tom has the better tips.
 
I've had better success by placing the tom into the stand like this:

baskettips.jpg
Ditto. I use this method for my 12 inch tom for my Bumble Bee Bop kit.
 
Check out the flex frame from gauger percussion, inventer of the rims mount:

http://www.gaugerpercussion.com/flexframe.html

I haven't personally tried it, but it looks like it would work.
It does indeed work. The spectrum analysis style graph example compares it to a fully clamped drum, so the frame won't yield such profoundly different results when compared to a drum gently resting on the rubber tips of the basket assembly, but it's still a good piece of gear.
 
This thread brings up an interesting point.
Manufacturers have gone out of their way to push suspension mounts for toms for many years now.
I have done tests with my own ears of different mounting systems and the only real difference that I hear is when the resonate hoop is dampened just like when you use a snare stand to hold a tom.
I also can tell the difference between thin and thick flanged hoops and cast hoops.

I recently bought a kit that came with a floor tom that had factory isolation mounts with spring loaded legs.
I installed conventional legs on the tom and I couldn't hear any difference in the sound.
I placed the floor tom next to a floor tom of the same size, with the same heads and tuning that had conventional shell mounts no springs on the legs and I couldn't hear a difference.

The bottom line is this,

The Type Of Drumhead, The Tuning, The Vibration Of The Hoops, The Shell Configuration, And The Type Of Hoop Controls The Sustain Of The Drum!!!

Plain and simple.
My ears do not lie.
 
The bottom line is this,

The Type Of Drumhead, The Tuning, The Vibration Of The Hoops, The Shell Configuration, And The Type Of Hoop Controls The Sustain Of The Drum!!!

Plain and simple.
My ears do not lie.
All completely true Bob, but there's one element missing that's not very well acknowledged. The suspension of a drum becomes more critical the smaller you go in both diameter & volume. If you'd tried that same test with a pair of 10" or 12" toms, the result would be different. From our own testing, anything bigger than 14", especially of floor tom depth, there's next to no difference in head sustain between suspended floor toms & ones with legs fitted directly to the shell.

There is the other issue too, & IMO, the more important one, & that's shell sustain. The longer the shell is resonating, the longer the drum is producing it's full fundamental tone. This is the dominant short sustain tone that cuts through the band mix. In a live situation especially, head sustain is all but lost. Shell sustain is the difference between a full sounding tom & a flat sounding tom. Put simply, the more mass that's bolted to the shell (with the exception of thick shelled drums), the less the shell resonates, & the flatter/more attack focussed the drum becomes, irrespective of the length of head sustain.

What most players perceive as sustain, is in fact head sustain. It's related to shell resonance sustain, but not linked to it in terms of performance. Head sustain is largely dictated by bearing edges, tuning, head selection, & hoops, & is only slightly affected by shell sustain, hence only a small difference in head sustain between a floor tom with legs & a floor tom in a suspension device. Again, thinner shells will show this up more than thicker shells.
 
That bold section is the same reason I love that my thin shelled radials have no lugs at all to allow as much of the warm shell resonance as possible.
 
A part of the resonance thing, there is also the question of how comfortably the tom can be positioned using a snare stand...
I might use this method with a 20" bass drum, but I will not use it with a 22".
With the width of a 22" BD, I can´t put the tom right in front of my snare, where I like it, it necessary falls slightly on the left (if you play right handed) and also forces me to place my crash stand further on the left. Not comfortable for me.
With the width of a 20" BD it' s easier. Anyway, the only reason I would use it is because it looks cool. No real need.
 
I use a snare stand for my 10" tom. I just use less dampening on it. Although by most peoples standards I over dampen.
 
I have since acquired a flat base atlas snare stand. Let the rack tom sit in the basket. Problem solved! I truly love the atlas flat based stuff. Takes a lickin, looks classy and is light!
 
I only tried the rack tom on a snare stand once, and it did not sound good no matter how I tuned it. When I got home, I drilled two holes in the drum shell and attached the tom holder directly to the shell: problem solved. Peace and goodwill.
 
A snare stand absolutely killed the tone of my 11x14. I didn't expect that much of a change with a tom that big.
 
I have played around with this in great length and I believe I have found the solution. First off I like the tom in a snare stand as I can get the tom where I want plus for vanity purpose, I think it looks cool!
I have tried many different ways of putting the tom in the stand in the past with very frustrating results, no matter what I did the tom would sound dead! I tried placing it in gently, tightening it, letting it sit in the flange etc.... Nothing sounded good it was sooooo frustrating.
Then a guy showed me the simple solution.... wait for it... Buy a really good snare stand!!
The Pearl S1000, and the Pearl s2000 (a little overkill with that one given the price) But the Pearl S1000 is the key, they have a little hole in the rubber which in turn lets the drum float, you can actually tighten the thing down and it still resonates..
I'm not sure about the new Ludwig stand or what have you, but I'm telling you the Pearl S1000 is where it's at. It looks good is study as hell and you can position the tom anywhere with it.
So there ya go. You NEED a good stand, not a cheap one.
 
As I said in my post (#23), the Pearl (2000) stand never choked the tom for me.
I use a Pearl (I think it's the 1000) for my snare. The grips are awesome, and the holding power of the stand, without having to really tighten things down hard, is amazing.

The new Ludwig ATLAS line stand has raise spots on the rubber grips of the basket and I get NO tone, or, resonance loss with this stand. I have the regular Classic (flat base) and Atlas Pro stands, not the one with the fancy removable arms.

I'll get NO choking on the Flat Base DW with the rubber tips. I also put the tip in the "center" of the rim, and the rim sits in the basket on the other two spots.
I initially did this to put the drum at the angle I wanted, but it made a difference in the length of the "note", so I keep putting it on that stand that way.
 
Karl, I think you hit it on the head (no pun intended!) when you spoke of the plastic vs. rubber on the snare baskets. I had 2 other stands, one a premier and a different ludwig stand that had plastic that killed the tone/ resonance. The rubber tips on the atlas along with the fact that they are tapered to a point for minimal contact has to be the winning reason for my tom bellowing with tonal greatness.
 
Lately I've been using a Pearl S-790 snare stand to hold the Saturn 12" tom and it kills the resonance. It has rubber basket tips. So yea.
 
i think this debate boils down to the stand itself... i have a plain gibraltar stand that exhibits zero tone or resonance loss on my 12 inch tom... i have a tama roadpro that kills the tom.... adding foam seems to help it... i guess you need to try out stands before you buy... i am shooting myself for not holding out to get the pearl 1000... but it seemed like a lot to pay to hold a drum... luckily my old gibraltar stand sounds great with the tom, the tama now holds my snare
 
Back
Top