Drum build project

S

spirit

Senior Member
Hiya all!
There was a thread here started by SGT I believe- he was talking about a drum build- I too was considering that and decided to go ahead- I am just getting prices for vertical grain shells
10/6,12/7,14/8,16/10,20/18bd and 14/6.5 snare. with pre done bearing edges, snare beds. The reso bearing edges will be slightly rounded to countour the sound like a vintage set.
I intent to build it myself and use ec2s and ec1s on the toms, not sure about the snare heads as yet, still thinking! I want to stain and oil the shells as they will be birch- for that high end crack and cut.
I will use cast hoops on all but the bass drum, that will be wood hoops. Guager rims for suspension also.
This set is gonna be wicked as I hear the vertical grain is good for attack---Has anyone here done this with a vertical grain birch?
 
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Sounds like it's going to be a fun project.

To really take advantage of vertical grain, all the grains must be oriented the same way. One of the attributes of plywood that makes it so strong and durable is the cross-grain structure of the veneers, but this means the grains tend to cancel each other out to some extent, not to mention the presence of glue will also inhibit the sound.

To really get vertical gran sweetness, you need to go stave or solid shell. Sound will be transmitted from the head to bearing edge and directly into the body of the shell to the bottom head, resulting in insance projection and richness of sound. Each grain will act as a micro-resonator if they are all aligned.

You didn't say what kinds of shell you are using.
 
I have found a guy in the uk with good creds who builds shells and kits- http://alantocknell-drums.com/

My kit specs are- Birch final details

10" x 6.5"
12" x 7.5"
13" x 10"
14" x 12"

Bass Drum
20" x 18"

Snare Drum (7.5mm with r/rings)
14" x 6.5"

4.5mm toms -support rings to both top and bottom

He has made it an easier build by doing the bearing edges and snare beds for me inclusive.

I intend to have the bass drum undrilled to keep a clean sound




This guy know his stuff!

Itching to get my shells- already planning the lugs, have decided on S hoops, not cast and a Dunnet throw, 42 strand snare wires and all chrome fittings to match. The shells will be stained and sprayed and end up gloss, not oiled external, I will oil the inside with tung oil.....This will be my dream lifetime kit!
So excited it hurts!!!
 
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Ouch!
Still thinking about this build project, I just know its gonna be something special.....Who has any pics of a black stained gloss shell with the grain showing really nice- I need to see some pics please to decide on colour options- help me guys to decide on a finish- maybe you will inspire me!?
 
Have you looked into HighWood?

http://www.highwooddrums.co.uk/


And of course we will need pics when you get going
wink.gif
 
Black stained gloss..............
 

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Thats what I am talking about! Nice very, very nice.......Makes the metalwork look really bold and shine too!
I have figured out how I am going to finish the shells.
The process is to sand it lightly, apply a sanding filler and sand again with very fine paper...stain with water based dye, allow to soak in and wipe off excess, repeat if required for darker shade. when dry sande again and repeat if required.Dry fully and wax, for days and days- buff with polisher to complete.
Well thats the plan anyways for now-- I may still decide to use a hard seal in the end after all!
Just like the idea of wax and keeping the drum near natural as possible.
If anyone has built drums here and can advise- chip in and fill me in on any possible problems I may face please.
I so know that I have to be really, really sure about positions of lugs, buts etc before I drill, and use pencil to lightly mark it all off being sure all measurments are dead right all the time, checking time and time again.
I cant see any problems unless I mess up the above measurments---and frankly- no way I will mess that up.
I will turn the spare room into a workshop for the duration- so wont get disturbed or distracted in anyway(the door locks from the inside)! LOL!!!!!!
 
Most of the builders say nothing finer then 220 before staining. If you get the wood to smooth it will not soak in the stain evenly.

I am a huge fan of shooting, I feel I get more control over coverage with a spray gun then I do wiping on stain.

Do you homework, spend a lot of time on the drum building forums.

As a lot of questions, make sure you are ready before you start.

Go read the tutorials on drumfoundry.com

There are so many finish options.

Get some wood similar to your shells and try it there first, make sure you like what you see. It is easy to trow out a chink of wood, not so easy to trash a new shell.

And finally, take your time, be patient, do not rush it.
 
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Very good points mate- thanks, I seem to be living on these forums at the moment....I have never sprayed wood before- I have done a few cars tho- so I guess the technique would be the same, depress before pass on the object, release after, everlap strokes and keepk the distance even...Yup Ima gonna practice a lot before hand- no doubt about that...The shells should be formed in the next week or so- as the wood was bought today!
I gotta say that this guy really knows his stuff about drum shell making, he was sure to ask a lot of questions to determine the type of sound you are after and then recomends a thickness, depth etc.
Superb service- makes you feel at ease with your choice and removes doubt!

Nice guy also- always a bonus!
 
Sounds like a cool project! Definitely seek out some help over at GhostNote.net - those are the real builder geeks who will put you on the right path fast.
 
don't apply any sealer or anything to the shell until after you've dyed the shell. Any foriegn substance on the shell will result in uneven dye coverage. Sanding with 180 grit will open up the wood pores better, so more dye will be absorbed by the shell, and the color will be more even and rich.

Wax isn't much of a protective finish. If you barely scrape anything against a finish like that, you will easily damage it. And if you've spayed cars before, drums ought to be much easier for you. The only real difference is that wood is porous, so it'll take more coats to build up a good gloss. I would also use a good sanding sealer for the first couple of coats. If you're good at spraying, I would definitely go that route, since you'll achieve a much better finish that way. You can use the automotive clear coats, too.
 
hey just have a question for 'spirit' or anyone else who knows the answer.. you said you were going to oil the inside of your shells with tung oil. what does that do?
 
shanecon said:
hey just have a question for 'spirit' or anyone else who knows the answer.. you said you were going to oil the inside of your shells with tung oil. what does that do?
Click to expand...

Well- Dw and other makers claim that tung oil helps to seal the wood and protect it from time and also that it helps the vibrations dive down the shell for more wood tone?!?!
I dont know for real- but....I dont want to leave my wood inside naked- as its a keeper and fugure it cant do any harm!
I have used furniture wax before on my export bass drum-- after a few coats I thought it sounded deeper in tone- maybe I imagined it- but I have never had a better bass drum sound..
I wear Emad on the batter side and the stock pearl on the reso side with an Evans pillow on the inside one for each head....That sucker rocks massive style now!!!

Even my old yammy 9000 never sounded this good- but then again back in those days- Emads never existed!
Wood needs somthing to protect it- if its good enough for dw and that lot- I wont fret about wacking some in!
 
hey spirit, glad to hear you're putting a set together. first and foremost, if you don't have the guerilla drum dvd... go get it! it makes understanding everything very easy and give you all the steps you need to do a proper finish, drill without blowouts, etc. i really like the satin black glossy look you're going for, and it will make for a beautiful drum set.

as far as my build goes, i've purchased a set of 1980's Yamaha Stage Customs that are bare down to just the wood. They have some primer on them from the previous owner's intent to redo them that will need to be sanded off, but all around are solid shells. I was planning on a Tobacco Sunburst-esque finish, but after looking at the pictures of the Satin Black, I am rethinking. I wouldn't want to steal your thunder, so I might go with a Satin Blue or Red even. I intend on finishing them off with wooden drum hoops top and bottom. Going to be stupid expensive, but I'm dieing to have a set with all wooden hoops lol.

Good luck with the build! And POST PICTURES!!!!
 
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