This is kinda long and for that I apologize, but I just want to make sure you understand my most likely inadequate way of explaining this. Be sure to refer to the two attachments for further clarification.
Well, here's an answer that worked for me and a few of my drumming friends that had the same problem when experimenting with "wide open" double headed bass drums. Bear in mind I don't even use felt strips!! The over-rebound was TREMENDOUS and sometimes got 3 or 4 bounces per played note!!
I had the problem you describe for QUITE a while after I livened up my kick drum. I KNEW that it would $UCK to start over and redo my entire bass drum technique just to pull the beater out of the head. So I stated thinking . . . it had to be the pedal. It just HAD to be!!
. . . Turned out . . . after a LOOOOOONG journey . . . I was RIGHT!!
SOoooooo, my search began for the perfect Kick Drum Pedal that would allow me to play how I wanted to play without my changing one bit! I was under the impression that the Machine should adapt to ME not that I should adapt to the machine!! And after many hundreds of dollars wasted on some mighty fine and high quality pedals (Ludwig, Sonor, DW
"turbo as I didn't know yet" and a few others) I was almost at my wits end and the end of my pedal buying budget.
I FINALLY found out after all the money I spent and the years of time on trials of all that equipment that was NOT what I needed, that Tama's cheapest $40.00 (at the time) junky Belt Driven pedal played the best of ALL of them!! I was INCENSED that I hadn't checked the CHEAPEST pedals FIRST because I thought I was looking for QUALITY! It hadn't yet occurred to me that it wasn't the quality of the pedal that would cure my ills, and I couldn't understand WHY this junk pedal played effortlessly and didn't hang on the head when I was playing it. So I set out to learn WHY this pedal was so awesome and the expensive ones weren't and in the process I learned a little Geometry.
I found that there are two distinctly different kinds of "action" to a Kick Drum Pedal. (
there are now more than that but for this discussion . . . )
I also found that this inexpensive pedal I was playing had what is called an "
offset cam" operation, (
see attachment DW ACCELERATOR and Tama IC Power Glide) not the "
centered sprocket" (
see attachment DW TURBO and Tama IC Rolling Glide) like all the other GREAT but completely WRONG pedals I had spent precious time and money on.
The way the drive chain moves in towards the axle on the forward motion of the stroke puts more spring tension into play and helps push your foot back after the rebound JUST enough to pull it off the head until YOU want to play the next note. (
Yeah, there's a bit more to it than that, but that's the part that helps with curing your problem.)
I played that cheap pedal for quite a while and when it was time to get a more quality pedal I was now armed with a bit of knowledge that would make it much easier to decide what pedal would be right for me.
I ended up with an Iron Cobra Power Glide for my first great playing pedal, and now I own a DW 5000 Accelerator too, and BOTH play great!!
There are many companies that make pedals with the offset cam so you'll DEFINITELY find one you like or if you already have a quality pedal, maybe it would be more cost efficient to just replace the sprocket with an offset cam.
I hope this works for you, as it ended a long trial and error period for me, and best of all I DID NOT have to adjust my playing A BIT!! The new pedal just did the job with nothing but the usual minor adjustments for comfort to fit the pedal to me.
Good luck, and if you need more information on what the heck I'm talking about, just ask here or PM me.
PEACE!!
TL
R
Offset Cam / Accelerator - Power Glide = Good
Centered Sprocket / Turbo - Rolling Glide = Bad
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