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Old 02-27-2016, 08:29 PM
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wildbill wildbill is offline
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Default Dry Wood

OK - so I got those couple Mapex Saturn III drums. Popped the heads off to see where the insides were at.
I touched it with a waxed rag, and it soaked up the wax like it was dying of thirst.

Not too impressed with the work. There's some minor breakouts around some of the lug holes.
Not bad enough to raise a fit over, just not perfect.
A few tooling marks on the inner side of the bearing edge - nothing that would make head contact though.

But the big thing was the raw finish on the inside of the bass drum.
Running a rag around it, I could feel it sticking, and it pulled off some threads.
I actually got a splinter in my finger - ouch.

I would have thought that it should be sanded smooth a bit with some fine grit paper, and maybe given a little protection.

Is that normal - ha ha.
I don't know if it's because it's an inner play of walnut, or because of the lack of finish work,
or because I'm in an area that has extremely dry winters.
I have no idea how old the drums are, or if they're doing things differently now either.

Last edited by wildbill; 02-27-2016 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 02-27-2016, 09:29 PM
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Tommy_D Tommy_D is offline
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Default Re: Dry Wood

The Saturn's have a lacquered finish on their interiors, but it is thin and is not sanded afterwards. My Saturn 3 kit was built extremely well with only one hole having a slight amount of blow out on the interior. And that's on a 6 piece kit. Only one hole. All bearing edges were flawless. Of all the kits I have ever owned, and this includes my newly acquired DW Collectors, the Mapex has the best build quality, bar none.

Now, you can do what I did and sand the interiors and use some boiled linseed oil on them to make them really luxurious, or you can just give them a bit of oil and call it a day. I, personally, like the interiors of my drums baby butt smooth and finished as nicely as the exteriors. My Saturn's received this treatment from the day I opened the boxes and they are more beautiful on the inside than on the outside. From the factory the interiors have a bit of a gritty feel. Some people say it will knock down the errant high frequencies, but I don't buy it. Proper head selection and tuning will knock down high frequencies better than a slightly rough interior.

Take a look at my gear thread (link in sig) if you want to see what I did with my kit. I think it's much nicer than they came from the factory, but even from the factory they were built really well.

Here's what the inside of my shells look like after sanding and oiling:

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Last edited by Tommy_D; 02-27-2016 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 02-28-2016, 06:31 AM
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Default Re: Dry Wood

OK - I bit the bullet, stripped everything off of it,
sanded the inside down a bit and gave it my usual coating of finishing wax.

If this was supposed to have a coat of lacquer inside, I think someone missed this one.
It was very, very rough to the touch.
It would have been a lot easier doing it as a bare shell before it was assembled.

Probably won't make any difference, but I feel a bit better about having done it.
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Old 02-28-2016, 06:48 AM
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Default Re: Dry Wood

What color was the dust when you sanded? White or brown? Mine was white which tells me there was a sealer coat put on the inside of the drum. My kit was NOS from 2010.
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Old 02-28-2016, 07:00 AM
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Default Re: Dry Wood

I didn't do anything drastic - a simple rub down with 600 paper.
Just enough to prevent any fingers from catching on it - ha ha.
Wiped down immediately with a rag.
Given a coat of finishing wax and rubbed down again.

Didn't really notice dust color.
Probably because the first time I opened it up, I gave it a coating of regular car wax.
It soaked that right in and darkened the color a lot, but it still felt pretty rough.

I figure it was raw wood because the wax darkened the color so much.
If it had a lacquer coat, it would have shined it up, but not darkened it.
Also, I've never felt wood with paint on it that felt so rough.

Anyways, although I don't think it sounds any different, it looks and feels better now.
Not as nice as your picture though.
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Old 02-28-2016, 07:15 AM
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Tommy_D Tommy_D is offline
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Default Re: Dry Wood

Car wax? On bare wood with pores and everything? How do you keep it from getting all white and stuck in the pores never wanting to come out? The wax I use on wood (bearing edges and wax finishes (not shiny lacquer finishes)) is Johnson's furniture wax. Yellow can with the red stripe. Goes on crystal clear, dries with a slight haze and rubs off really easily with a microfiber towel.

Never heard of using car wax on wood. I use it all the time on lacquer and glossy wrap finishes. Even all the chrome on the kit. Works a treat for all those bits.
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Old 02-28-2016, 07:24 AM
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Default Re: Dry Wood

I use this: http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...-finishing-wax

That's what I normally use.
Most other drums I've had, had an internal finish that would have taken regular car wax though.
I tried it on this drum because it was close at hand.

Was also shocked at how it soaked it up and darkened the wood.

I figured - well, I can't leave it like this now, partly dark and partly lighter,
so I gave the whole inside of both the bass drum and the tom a coating of car wax.

It darkened up the wood several shades.
Debating on whether I should do the tom the same way I did the bass drum - strip, sand, wipe down, finish wax,
but it doesn't seem worth the effort.
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Old 02-29-2016, 03:37 PM
WallyY WallyY is offline
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Default Re: Dry Wood

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy_D View Post
Never heard of using car wax on wood. I use it all the time on lacquer and glossy wrap finishes. Even all the chrome on the kit. Works a treat for all those bits.
The white residue is polishing media mixed with the wax.
If you use a pure car wax without polish it won't make any white powder.
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Old 01-06-2019, 02:24 PM
WookieUlrich WookieUlrich is offline
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Default Re: Dry Wood

Hey friends,
I have recently purchased a Saturn III series (serial number badged / non treated inner shell), and after reading your posts here regarding treating the inner shells, I may well go ahead and try too, as I too love the smooth finish of inner shells, especially on my Saturn V and Orion kits.
I just hope I don't ruin them!!
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Old 01-06-2019, 03:58 PM
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GetAgrippa GetAgrippa is offline
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Default Re: Dry Wood

Interesting I'm curious does sealing it really matter-wood floors are only surface sealed and they take quite a beating and changes in humidity?? Course they can crack if they weren't dried properly to begin. Cellulose is hygroscopic so natural has an affinity for water-so it always has some water-I guess it's the rate of exchange of water vapor between wood and ambient air that makes the difference? Does look better and you feel they took care in the build though.
Reminds me of this friend of mines Dad would carve boat paddles-he gave one to a friend (and told him it needed to dry). Well he forgot about that and immediately sealed it-not realizing he sealed all the moisture and weight making it unusable (it's ridiculously heavy). I've read the tung oil is great cause it soaks in then slowly cures to hardness-so it isn't just surface but has some depth of protection. A furniture/piano mover told me any wood is prone to huge humidity shifts so should be slowly acclimated to a new home.
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Old 01-06-2019, 04:05 PM
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Default Re: Dry Wood

Those drums are long gone, but the only reason I did it was to prevent a hand full of splinters if I ever needed to get inside the drum for any reason.
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Old 01-06-2019, 05:16 PM
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Hollywood Jim Hollywood Jim is offline
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Default Re: Dry Wood

Are there any old forum threads regarding the benefits of coating the inside of drum shells?
The benefits or drawbacks of oil or clear coating of the inside of drum shells?


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Old 01-06-2019, 05:29 PM
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Default Re: Dry Wood

A quick search for 'tung oil' brings up a lot of threads to dig through.
http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/s...rchid=17720861

Most drums I've had were finished and sealed by the factory - both outside and in.
I do usually put a coat of finishing wax on the bearing edges though.
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Old 01-07-2019, 12:08 AM
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Default Re: Dry Wood

I found this thread.
It was very helpful and pretty much answered my question. http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/s...shell+interior


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Old 01-07-2019, 09:51 AM
markdrum markdrum is offline
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Default Re: Dry Wood

I've wet sanded some Keller maple shells using tung oil and 600 grit sandpaper. The finish looked and felt good. Just for grins I put another coat on by going up to 800 grit. The shells look great. I had played them before applying the tung oil and I couldn't hear any discernible difference but the shells look a lot better and they feel a good bit smoother. I did all of this because I live in a part of the country where the climate is very dry. I plan to go back over them in about 6-8 months. So far I'm really happy with the results.
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