Sticksy babe, this reply is especially for you!
Now here's some real world advice:
when it comes down to playing i just want to play.....
with depth the main thing i'd be worried about (at least in a 24") is can you fit it into a car to get to gigs if its 24x16?
And this:
The original poster is having a custom kit made, so that person can chose to change some of the properties of the drums and make, IMO, a better drum.
And this:
You're doin' it again mate.
Shrug it off, take a deep breath and be content with the fact that at your age and playing experience you may have picked up a trick or two and are content that you know your own mind as a result. Who gives a rats arse if people don't "see it your way" all the time? You've got your own thing happening..........what's wrong with that?
Be content with the fact that at least you can justify to yourself "why".......thousands can't. No joke.......I see it here often.
And this from a member who really knows his stuff:
OK until now I have not chimed in on this …
A few years ago I was involved in the design of bass guitar speaker cabinets; let’s just say that we had some great designs with some interesting innovations enough to get a full six page review in a respected Bass magazine.
Every parameter is important in bass cabinet design as you are dealing with air charged by a driver often call a speaker. How one sets up how the air within that cabinet reacts with the speaker is subject to a series of definable conditions to get the desired results. This is not unlike what happens inside of a drum, the air in the drum is a similar “driver” and as you change any parameter the response and attack changes. So given a bass drum say a standard 14x22 if you change the air cushion by adding more (or less) air yes you change the response and attack, other parameters change too ported, un-ported, head stiffness and tuning … Without going into a bunch of tech stuff as a very basic rule, if you use a given driver and put it into a cabinet that is too small then you choke off response and generally loose bass response and efficiency. If you make the cabinet too large then you get slack air that may have a degree of BOOM but lacks a balance of response, often called “punch” you also loose efficiency. Very much like a bass drum we shoot for a balance of attack to be able to hear articulation from the strings and the right amount of bottom to get a good bass feel, that does not necessarily mean getting the lowest possible response. “Keep it Simple” is totally correct, he understands when building a custom drum changing any given aspect changes something in that attack and response balance, and my guess is his prototype being a 20” depth will be “tuned” to the optimum he seeks … if he were to change to say an 18” depth he would change other aspects of his drum accordingly …
If you read my post, the one that obviously tweaked your nipples, it's about as non Saturn critique as it gets, yet you found critique within it. You then asked a question specific to your drums, I answered with a rhetorical question, but it was genuine, as I know little about the Saturn range. I was also trying to get you to look beyond your fixation & involve you in searching for your own answer.
Down to basics. There are differences between drum designs that make a difference to their performance. Those differences exist = fact. Kenny's spot on with his speaker cabinet design analogy, & anyone involved in the pro end of either speaker or drum design knows full well the affect of specification changes. Commercially, it's whether those improvements can be delivered at a price point. Sometimes, mass market manufacturers produce stuff that looks the part, but is ill thought through sonically. Kenny gets that with examples of big impressive looking black boxes that deliver poorly, actually, a reasonable parallel with extra deep budget bass drums. It's all about the look. mating design elements together to produce the best possible result judged against the original design brief is something industry pro's do all the time. The speaker boys do it, & the drum boys do it. Sometimes, those two merge as well. For example, if I was doing FOH for a big band drummer with a 26" bass drum, I'd probably load the stack with bandpass subs (obviously, variables & caveats apply). If it was a metal band, I'd load the stacks with reflex subs. I won't bother you with why, but what I'm doing is aligning the sonic character of the speakers to the end goal of the band sound. Drum design on it's own is no different.
Now, before you get all defensive, this is not a "better" statement, & to refute your silly comment, of course everyone shouldn't throw their stuff away & go buy Guru stuff. There's a ton of great drums out there that deliver 90%+ of the sonic quality of a Guru kit for half the money, & for 99% of players, & 90% of applications, that's more than good enough. Equally, there's a sector that perceives the benefit of something that's designed towards a specific goal, & maximises construction & materials to bring that about at the highest standard. To deny that such an approach has value, is as stupid as saying you can't get a good sound out of a ply kit. Even more stupid, is to believe that anything that shows some advantage against gear you own, is an automatic threat to the validity of your gear choice.
Please, if you can maintain your own sanity, keep at it, because returning to the thread this morning was very amusing