Drum shell finish care...

section8usmc

section8usmc

Member
So I have noticed there are a lot of different products out there for shining/cleaning your shell's finish. I'm sure many work, and many aren't what they're cracked up to be, and I'm sure there is a few that will potentially damage the finish. In doing research, it seemed to me it is a lot like trying to find a good car wax or wash and I'm sure there will be just as wide of a range of opinion. Those that could care less, those that don't worry much about it and occasionally wipe them down, those who keep them pretty clean, and those that treat it like a new car, and as such, the array of products will vary accordingly.

I fall in the latter group, and don't ever have to worry about moving my stuff around more than a few feet to set up a new piece of gear, so wear and tear in such a manner will not be an issue. I, like most of us here, eventually spend a pretty good amount of money on our kits, and I certainly want to take good care of that investment. It came with a mirror finish, and I'd like to keep it that way.

If there is a recent thread on this then I guess that will end this one. I say recent, because products change, some go away, new ones come about, and technology makes many things better, polishes and protectants being a big one.

Please, if you do post about an actual product, explain WHY you like it, and what it does. Does it clean, polish, protect, or a combination of uses? Is it OK for use on hardware as well? Those kind of things. So, how do YOU take care of your drums?
 
Guitar polish works great as it cleans and polishes all in one and usually comes with a good soft cloth. Car wax is good too if you dont mind spending that much time buffing. BTW, dont use any type of furniture polish, the finish on drums is not the same as on furniture and can soften and yellow with time using such things as pledge, I have seen many drum set, guitar and piano finishes destroyed using products such as this and if no one believes me, google it. I even know a guy that swore how good pledge was on the custom lacquer paint on his Harley until it started to dull and yellow and when they tried to refinish they couldnt even paint over it because it had softened the old paint and could not be sanded properly and had to strip it to the bare metal to get the new paint adhere with no problems costing him big time.

As for cleaning hardware I use cymbal cleaner/polish on mine.
 
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For lacquered shells with a high end finish like nitrocellulose lacquer or high end shellac .. I would look for specific polishes (even guitar polishes) and cloths that are meant for theses finishes to clean and polish ... you have to be uber careful here. Also use a very gentle duster for day to day dusting in the studio setting to prevent dust build up.

For lower end polyurethane, lacquered finishes, or drum wraps ... just use a bit of warm water and a cotton cloth and some elbow grease, as the finish itself is meant to seal the wood. Use a dry cotton cloth afterwards for polishing. Some polishes can actually leave film on these finishes. Again a duster will take care of the day to day dusting.

I have used diluted windex or alcohol with water (4 parts water to 1 part other) for my dirty hardware and it works well. Harware has a thin metallic coating that can break down and flake off if you use too strong a cleaner. For the day to day care, just use a cotton cloth and elbow grease, finger prints and sweat come off easy if they are fresh. It is built up sweat and road grime that can accumulate and become harmful to your hardware.

I prefer the preventative method of having a set of cotton gloves in my stick bag for set up and tear down. This prevents the majority of skin oils etc that can mark up your shells and hardware. In your case invest in a sheet that will cover your entire drums when they are not in use ... it will cut down on the dust build up.
 
I do use a couple of flat sheets I bought just for using as a cover, and will remain chemical free (no softeners and hypoallergenic detergent). I hadn't actually thought of using Pledge, but I'm really, really glad to learn this now, before the "hey, I've got a great idea" bulb came on. Thanks much for that input.

I was looking at micro fiber cloths. I really wanted the super fine cloths that they give you with TVs, but they are expensive, and no bigger than the screen cleaning cloths. I think I will buy the same ones I use for my cars. They are still really fine, and make a softened cotton towel seem very harsh and abrasive by comparison, usually blue, and sold in packs, in case anyone hasn't seen them. I am confident that the standard microfiber cloths with light pressure will be more than sufficient for anything I'll ever need.

Good idea with the gloves. I don't move stuff around much, but a great idea. I'm always careful about touching the shells if I can at all avoid it, but that would still be a good idea, especially for hardware. I'm sure more will post, but so far so good. Thanks for the info.
 
For my shells I generally use a swiffer about once a month to remove the dust. When new, I sealled them with a good quality car polish and repeat that about yearly. Any minor surface scratches can be taken out with metalic finish t-cut and re coated with polish.

For cymbals, |I use a technique that i gort from the late Robbie France; I use a lemon, cut to a flat end and table salt. Dip the lemon into the salt and rub around the tonal groves. The salt acts as a mild abrrassive and cleans off the dirt and combines with the lemon juice to remove greasy marks like fingerprints. I then use a soft nail brush and washing up liquid to wash the mixture off, hose down well with water from the shower and then dry off. When dry I use car rim (alloy wheel) wax, which is thin but buffs to a good shine, to protect the brilliant finish and prevent fingerprints until the next time.

Hardwear-I use car polish when new and metalic finish t-cut to clean (about yearly intervals) and then reaply the polish.
 
See, that's kind of along the lines of what I was thinking. I was thinking about trying Meguire's Ultimate Quick Detailer, and Ultimate Quick Wax, basically along those same lines, safe for all paints, including lacquer types used on a lot of classic car paint jobs. Basically a light, spray on, or wipe on, and wipe off. The cymbals are a different story obviously, but they aren't my main concern at the moment. I haven't been able to find out what kind of paint is typically used on drums, but I imagine its a water based. I don't know, it could be acrylic, and I doubt they'd use the nitro based. Anyone know? Any paint specialists out here?

I keep the temperature and humidity controlled. 70°-75°, 45%-55% humidity. Covered whenever I'm not playing, and just swiffer dusted every couple 3 days. They are only a couple weeks old, so I have time to research, but I definitely like some of the ideas so far.
 
The Black Page Dude said:
For lacquered shells with a high end finish like nitrocellulose lacquer or high end shellac .. I would look for specific polishes (even guitar polishes) and cloths that are meant for theses finishes to clean and polish ... you have to be uber careful here. Also use a very gentle duster for day to day dusting in the studio setting to prevent dust build up.

For lower end polyurethane, lacquered finishes, or drum wraps ... just use a bit of warm water and a cotton cloth and some elbow grease, as the finish itself is meant to seal the wood. Use a dry cotton cloth afterwards for polishing. Some polishes can actually leave film on these finishes. Again a duster will take care of the day to day dusting.
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I like this post. I suspect that nobody here with a drum set made in the past 15 years has a true lacquer finish. I don't believe you are even allowed to spray nitrocellulose in Germany anymore due to the solvent fumes, and Chinese factories will be set up for mass production and are likely spraying polyurethane. I'd be surprised if they spray polyester since it's more likely to crack and drums get moved and flexed a lot.

The only people who will be spraying nitrocellulose lacquer these days are small builders who don't have the technology or finishing ability to spray urethane. Lacquer is MUCH easier, because each coat dissolves the coat under it a little and they melt together, but it's not as good a finish. Lacquer is soft and scratches easily. My piano has a hand rubbed lacquer finish, and it scratches easily. On the flip side, it's easy for a professional to repair lacquer.

In pianos, I think only Steinway USA and Mason and Hamlin currently still offer a true lacquer finish. I believe most of the German pianos will use polyester. It is more durable, sprays thicker, and "dries" much harder. Unfortunately, it is also much harder to repair. If your drum says it has a "Lacquer finish", it is most likely a polyurethane finish. It's a good finish. I'd say a 2k auto style polyurethane would be the best finish available, so if you ever build your own shell, take it to a body shop and ask them to clear it :)

Shellac is definitely not a good outside of the drum finish. Like true lacquer, you can always re-dissolve Shellac, but unlike lacquer where you need an organic solvent, with shellac, all it takes is alcohol. So if you spill your beer on your drum, it will start to dissolve a shellac finish. Spill vodka on shellac, and you can essentially wipe the finish away. Shellac is also not a great waterproofing finish

On the flip side, Shellac is a fantastic vapor barrier. Shellac will slow down changes in moisture content very well. If you want to finish the inside of your drum shells, a fresh can of shellac is probably your best choice. It is easy, fast, safe (as long as you aren't smoking), and if you get changes in tuning due to humidity changes while touring, a few coats of shellac will help minimize those changes. Just make sure it's a new can. Shellac is only good for a little while in solution. After a few months, it changes and won't dry well, so you get a softer and sticky finish. I always suggest people buy cans from someplace with a high turnover.

Unlike polyurethane or polyester, which harden via a chemical reaction, shellac and lacquer dry, and can therefore easily be re-wet, or re-dissolved.

The safest way to clean your drums, no matter what they are finished with, is with a little distilled water and a soft cloth. Add a touch of gentle soap if you need to get off something greasy.

If you have a vintage set of drums that may actually be true nitrocellulose lacquer, I'd find out what Steinway or Mason and Hamlin recommend for their pianos. I have a special spray cleaner just for my piano, but I'm on vacation and can't tell you what the brand is.

Sorry for the late thread reply
 
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I have always cleaned my shells with furniture polish, and have never had an issue. Most Kia are high-gloss stains or wraps, and it's been fine. Even the matte finish on the Yamaha seems not to have an issue. I've always cleaned my guitars and basses this way (over 17 years) and again never seen any deterioration of the finish. I'll be honest, I think a lot of these specialist cleaners for shells and guitars is marketing hype. Cymbals seem to need something more specialist (I use groove juice) but the shells always come up great with cheap, run of the mill furniture polish.
 
I believe in preventative maintenance. I cover my drums with an old bed sheet when I'm not practicing them. It keeps dust off them so I don't need to clean them all that often. It also blocks UV rays which damage drums and it involves very little effort, which is really great.
 
TWerner said:
I like this post. I suspect that nobody here with a drum set made in the past 15 years has a true lacquer finish. I don't believe you are even allowed to spray nitrocellulose in Germany anymore due to the solvent fumes, and Chinese factories will be set up for mass production and are likely spraying polyurethane. I'd be surprised if they spray polyester since it's more likely to crack and drums get moved and flexed a lot.

The only people who will be spraying nitrocellulose lacquer these days are small builders who don't have the technology or finishing ability to spray urethane. Lacquer is MUCH easier, because each coat dissolves the coat under it a little and they melt together, but it's not as good a finish. Lacquer is soft and scratches easily. My piano has a hand rubbed lacquer finish, and it scratches easily. On the flip side, it's easy for a professional to repair lacquer.

In pianos, I think only Steinway USA and Mason and Hamlin currently still offer a true lacquer finish. I believe most of the German pianos will use polyester. It is more durable, sprays thicker, and "dries" much harder. Unfortunately, it is also much harder to repair. If your drum says it has a "Lacquer finish", it is most likely a polyurethane finish. It's a good finish. I'd say a 2k auto style polyurethane would be the best finish available, so if you ever build your own shell, take it to a body shop and ask them to clear it :)

Shellac is definitely not a good outside of the drum finish. Like true lacquer, you can always re-dissolve Shellac, but unlike lacquer where you need an organic solvent, with shellac, all it takes is alcohol. So if you spill your beer on your drum, it will start to dissolve a shellac finish. Spill vodka on shellac, and you can essentially wipe the finish away. Shellac is also not a great waterproofing finish

On the flip side, Shellac is a fantastic vapor barrier. Shellac will slow down changes in moisture content very well. If you want to finish the inside of your drum shells, a fresh can of shellac is probably your best choice. It is easy, fast, safe (as long as you aren't smoking), and if you get changes in tuning due to humidity changes while touring, a few coats of shellac will help minimize those changes. Just make sure it's a new can. Shellac is only good for a little while in solution. After a few months, it changes and won't dry well, so you get a softer and sticky finish. I always suggest people buy cans from someplace with a high turnover.

Unlike polyurethane or polyester, which harden via a chemical reaction, shellac and lacquer dry, and can therefore easily be re-wet, or re-dissolved.

The safest way to clean your drums, no matter what they are finished with, is with a little distilled water and a soft cloth. Add a touch of gentle soap if you need to get off something greasy.

If you have a vintage set of drums that may actually be true nitrocellulose lacquer, I'd find out what Steinway or Mason and Hamlin recommend for their pianos. I have a special spray cleaner just for my piano, but I'm on vacation and can't tell you what the brand is.

Sorry for the late thread reply
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A storming post, & absolutely accurate. Nice job, & thank you for taking time on this :)

We use shellac for some finishes - French polish style. It goes so well with the build of our drums, but mostly we seal with a special hardening oil then hard wax & buff to finish. Both methods are complementary to our drums, but also require some basic "housekeeping" from their owners. There's plusses & minus's to each finish choice. Our main concern is sonic affect & appropriate instrument protection. Neither finish is as "bomb proof" as some of the modern thick/hard finishes, nor as glossy, but ultimately a breeze to home repair after damage.
 
Thanks for the comment, Andy,

keep it simple said:
We use shellac for some finishes - French polish style. It goes so well with the build of our drums, but mostly we seal with a special hardening oil then hard wax & buff to finish. Both methods are complementary to our drums, but also require some basic "housekeeping" from their owners.
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Given you guys are half Stradavari and half Sam Maloof in the way you design and build your drums, I can understand those finish choices. You're selling functional works of art, so the buyers should know how to take care of them. Even so, French Polishing ?! Talk about going the extra mile. I thought only classical guitar makers were crazy enough to put that much effort into a finish.

Also, I have to credit Bob Flexner's book for most of the knowledge I have about finishes. It is easy to read and far and away the best reference available for woodworkers. Can't recommend it highly enough.

Lastly, off topic, but just because I'm very excited, I have to share that my local wood supplier expects to get in a bunch of kiln dried Canary Wood tomorrow. I've been checking with them every month for over a year, watching for it. Going to grab 25 or 30 board feet and stash it in the guest room for the next 6 months or so (I have a very tolerant wife!).
After that, it's slotted to become a 7x10,8x12,12x15,15x20, 6.5x13 stave kit.
 
TWerner said:
Thanks for the comment, Andy,



Given you guys are half Stradavari and half Sam Maloof in the way you design and build your drums, I can understand those finish choices. You're selling functional works of art, so the buyers should know how to take care of them. Even so, French Polishing ?! Talk about going the extra mile. I thought only classical guitar makers were crazy enough to put that much effort into a finish.

Also, I have to credit Bob Flexner's book for most of the knowledge I have about finishes. It is easy to read and far and away the best reference available for woodworkers. Can't recommend it highly enough.

Lastly, off topic, but just because I'm very excited, I have to share that my local wood supplier expects to get in a bunch of kiln dried Canary Wood tomorrow. I've been checking with them every month for over a year, watching for it. Going to grab 25 or 30 board feet and stash it in the guest room for the next 6 months or so (I have a very tolerant wife!).
After that, it's slotted to become a 7x10,8x12,12x15,15x20, 6.5x13 stave kit.
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Crazy, we certainly are :) We don't French polish very often, but we do frequently use shellac under hard wax. A perfect blend of moisture barrier & enhanced wood beauty but very serviceable too. Best of all, zero impact on our shell tones :)

I'm liking the sound of a canary wood stave kit. I advise as thin a shell as is structurally viable. Are you turning them yourself, or do you have a builder in mind? If your boards are thick enough, maybe go down to just below 1/4" on the main shells & machine in rerings, as it will be difficult to find a wood that will partner well as a glued in rering (differential expansion - contraction issues) Good luck, & be sure to post up pictures of this pending beauty :)
 
keep it simple said:
I'm liking the sound of a canary wood stave kit. I advise as thin a shell as is structurally viable. Are you turning them yourself, or do you have a builder in mind? If your boards are thick enough, maybe go down to just below 1/4" on the main shells & machine in rerings, as it will be difficult to find a wood that will partner well as a glued in rering (differential expansion - contraction issues) Good luck, & be sure to post up pictures of this pending beauty :)
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It'll be 6 months before I'll even think about working with the wood, although I may rough cut some staves so the wood can acclimatize faster. I don't have your experience, so I doubt I'll be .25" thick brave, but I'll think about it :) Thanks.

Off topic update, no Canary wood available. May have to consider quarter sawn Sapele or White oak, or even flat sawn purple heart.
 
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Wow. TWerner, that was an amazing bit of information there! Thanks for that! Outstanding. I figured that the finishes on most kits were actually a polyurethane. Most seem to have a fairly hard, durable appearance and feel to them. That being the case, it should be pretty easy for most people to take care of their kit, unless you have the money and/or passion to own such a specialized instrument. They sell more entry level and intermediate drum kits because there is always a steady supply of new and intermediate drummers. Even many professional drummers use a less expensive kit for moving around gigging or a practice kit depending on their situation. You sell more to the masses, you need to make sure they are durable.

That kind of makes me worry less about it. The chrome hardware is obviously easy to care for. I still dust, still cover it. It is always temperature and humidity controlled. I don't eat or drink around it. It's in the finished basement, with the only windows being very small, curtain covered, and on the north side of the house, so direct, or even indirect sunlight is a non issue. My kit is probably cared for more than most anyway. I just like to make sure my investment is taken care of, because while it may not be custom, and may not be all that expensive, in my eyes, like most instruments, they are still a work of art.
 
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