Attention Vintage Japanese Experts

willieboy_sf

Senior Member
I have a question about a vintage 1960's Pearl drum kit that is for sale locally. I know about the level of quality of the Japanese "stencil" kits that were made back in the 60's and early 70's, but what about kits that are badged "Pearl" from that era? Are they better than the stencil kits, or about the same, or is there no way of knowing without inspecting and playing the kit? Here is a photo. Any help is much appreciated.
 

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I have a question about a vintage 1960's Pearl drum kit that is for sale locally. I know about the level of quality of the Japanese "stencil" kits that were made back in the 60's and early 70's, but what about kits that are badged "Pearl" from that era? Are they better than the stencil kits, or about the same, or is there no way of knowing without inspecting and playing the kit? Here is a photo. Any help is much appreciated.

Are you sure it's from that time period? I'm not a pear expert at all but it apears they never changed their mounting system.
 
Basically, it's all about price. The best thing about some of the "early" Japanese kits, some of the wrap finishes are "off the hook". If some cat's selling one a kit for $300, what else are you gonna buy, for $300. You can always sand and seal the interior of the shell (highly recommended with Japanese "cheesewood"). Maybe even fiberglass the interior. Remember also, when these drums first came out, we didn't have all the "newfangaled" drum heads we do now, to make cheap drums sound good. The Remo CS was born in 68, the Pinstripe in 73.
 
I've never heard the word "vintage" as applied to older Pearl kits.
I think vintage is over 25 years old.

I had a friend in high school who had that exact same kit....about 1977 or so. It was old then. I'd buy it. I collect cheesewood kits.
 
I heard that cheesewood is the new birds' eye maple. I think Craviotto is coming out with a one-ply cheesewood snare. Possibly to be followed by a Brady block cheesewood snare.
 
Hey Harry, what's Japanese 'cheesewood'?
It's wood that if you rub to hard (or in some extreme cases, just look at to long), it has a tendency to fall apart, much like "string cheese".
 
It's wood that if you rub to hard (or in some extreme cases, just look at to long), it has a tendency to fall apart, much like "string cheese".

Harry: you recommended below sanding and sealing the inside of a shell to protect/fix old kits. I have heard that Tama Starclassic Bubinga shells are "stringy" on the inside, not smooth and polished like the old Sonor Bubinga kits were a while ago.

Would you recommend sanding and sealing the inside of a new/newer SC Bubinga shell? Would it change or enhance the sound properties at all?

Thanks.
 
Would you recommend sanding and sealing the inside of a new/newer SC Bubinga shell?
I've never seen the inside of the Tama shell, to know what it looks and/or feels like. Tama claims bubinga to be 53% harder than maple or birch, and at $2700 for a shell pack, I wouldn't suggest fooling with it at all............ Not to be confused with a 40 or 50 year old Japanese drum set that should cost no more that $100-$300. Those, have fun with.
 
I've never seen the inside of the Tama shell, to know what it looks and/or feels like. Tama claims bubinga to be 53% harder than maple or birch, and at $2700 for a shell pack, I wouldn't suggest fooling with it at all............ Not to be confused with a 40 or 50 year old Japanese drum set that should cost no more that $100-$300. Those, have fun with.

Got it--thanks, Harry. I will leave the Tamas alone!
 
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