shell information

Someone is gonna crucify me for saying this, but here goes. His snare in the video sounds like wood for sure. Since yours is metal it will tend to be ringier than what you want, so you need to deaden your head. Duct tape (cringe), those o-ring things, hell even maybe a Pinstripe head. It can be done, but you will have to think outside of the box on this. You will still need to keep the head pretty tight so it doesn't sound mushy like a wet cardboard box. I just don't think a coated Ambassador is gonna get you where you want to be.

Ok batter head is gonna be pinstripe , for bottom head ambassador or diplomat?
 
I still don't really understand the bearing edge concept.
How does the head know the shape of the edge? It would seem that the head vibrates freely up to the point where it first contacts the shell. Whether that point of contact is at the beginning of a sharp or round edge, wouldn't seem to matter. The area of free vibration should be defined by the diameter of the head up to the point of contact.
Additionally, assuming the very outer edges of the head, past the edge contact point, are not really vibrating much, all the energy of the vibrating head would necessarily be passed into the shell, regardless of whether the contact point is sharp or flat. Where else would that energy go?
 
Ok batter head is gonna be pinstripe , for bottom head ambassador or diplomat?

The ambassador is thicker, so snare sensitivity will be less than that of the diplomat. However, if you play pretty hard and give the snare some punishment the diplomat would more than likely fail before the ambassador. But if you play hard, head sensitivity won't be an issue with the ambassador. If you play lightly, snare sensitivity would be reduced, and the diplomat would be my choice in that scenario.

Fess, like you said the head would vibrate where it first contacts the shell. If the edge were flat, as the head moved up and down once you struck it the head would touch the inner edge of the shell when it goes down, and outer when it goes up. The point of contact would change rapidly, cutting the resonance of the head I'm sure. This would also probably play hell with tuning.
 
The ambassador is thicker, so snare sensitivity will be less than that of the diplomat. However, if you play pretty hard and give the snare some punishment the diplomat would more than likely fail before the ambassador. But if you play hard, head sensitivity won't be an issue with the ambassador. If you play lightly, snare sensitivity would be reduced, and the diplomat would be my choice in that scenario.

Fess, like you said the head would vibrate where it first contacts the shell. If the edge were flat, as the head moved up and down once you struck it the head would touch the inner edge of the shell when it goes down, and outer when it goes up. The point of contact would change rapidly, cutting the resonance of the head I'm sure. This would also probably play hell with tuning.

Thank you for the all advice and answers
 
I still don't really understand the bearing edge concept.
How does the head know the shape of the edge? It would seem that the head vibrates freely up to the point where it first contacts the shell. Whether that point of contact is at the beginning of a sharp or round edge, wouldn't seem to matter. The area of free vibration should be defined by the diameter of the head up to the point of contact.
Additionally, assuming the very outer edges of the head, past the edge contact point, are not really vibrating much, all the energy of the vibrating head would necessarily be passed into the shell, regardless of whether the contact point is sharp or flat. Where else would that energy go?

The rounder, or flatter if you will, the bearing edge, the more head is in contact with it. The sharper the edge, the less head will will touch the shell. Theses two facotrs have a ton to do with the sound. It would be like putting a big piece or little piece of moon gel on the head. Imagine the head lying on either a knife edge or a pencil. Much different sound.
 
I would think that the sharper edge would would simply vibrate faster than the rounded edge. But both would transfer the same energy. The energy of the vibrating head has to go somewhere.
 
I would think that the sharper edge would would simply vibrate faster than the rounded edge. But both would transfer the same energy. The energy of the vibrating head has to go somewhere.

I think sharper edges make a longer note, because on rounded edges the head is getting slightly more muffled by the shell. I also think there's probably more overtones with a sharper edge. Think of it like putting those muffle rings on a drum, just a little less notable. I bet volume and energy are the same either way, and you may be right it might vibrate faster

This by gruntersdad really helped me understand a lot better https://www.moderndrummer.com/2014/12/need-know-bearing-edges/
 
Hi how is that material effects the drum?




This is not the 'bearing edge' as everybody in here insisted. The bearing edge is obscured from view by the head that resides on top of the bearing edge.


That extra half inch of shell on the inside is the extra bit on the flange that creates the bearing edge. The flange actually provides structural support to help keep that thin metal shell in-round.


I see in the comments also that the marketing hype of sharp bearing edges has maintained the belief system that sharp edges are somehow better for drums... They are much easier to make and take a lot less time to do it right...meaning cheaper to produce for makers.


There is no 'best'. All styles are just added flavors / colors to add to your palette of potential.
 
This is not the 'bearing edge' as everybody in here insisted. The bearing edge is obscured from view by the head that resides on top of the bearing edge.


That extra half inch of shell on the inside is the extra bit on the flange that creates the bearing edge. The flange actually provides structural support to help keep that thin metal shell in-round.


I see in the comments also that the marketing hype of sharp bearing edges has maintained the belief system that sharp edges are somehow better for drums... They are much easier to make and take a lot less time to do it right...meaning cheaper to produce for makers.


There is no 'best'. All styles are just added flavors / colors to add to your palette of potential.


i dont understand the "in-round" thing.If that flange is not there shape of round is distorted?Btw that flange is a little :)
 
What is circled is a flange made while bending the drum shell to both provide strength and to form a smooth surface, bearing edge, for the head to sit on. The flange bent over will keep the thin metal drum from becoming an oval, like the indentations on a soup can provide strength in the can. The flange could be bent over further to make a less round or sharper edge but this has been determined the proper angle for this drum.
 
There is no 'best'. All styles are just added flavors / colors to add to your palette of potential.

Is there a device that allows the average drummer to re-form a bearing edge? Or is that relegated to specialty drum shops?
 
Is there a device that allows the average drummer to re-form a bearing edge? Or is that relegated to specialty drum shops?


Not really for a rolled metal shell drum like the OP. A wood snare, yes. Sandpaper, a good eye, and some elbow grease is all you need.
 
Not really for a rolled metal shell drum like the OP. A wood snare, yes. Sandpaper, a good eye, and some elbow grease is all you need.

A router table could do it with precision pretty effortlessly. Sandpaper, a good eye and some elbow grease will more than likely screw the edge up.
 
A router table could do it with precision pretty effortlessly. Sandpaper, a good eye and some elbow grease will more than likely screw the edge up.


Routers aren't for kids and you don't use routers on metal parts without huge precautions. Very dangerous.


You ain't going to lose a finger using sandpaper.
 
Routers aren't for kids and you don't use routers on metal parts without huge precautions. Very dangerous.


You ain't going to lose a finger using sandpaper.

You said, and I quote, "Not really for a rolled metal shell drum like the OP. A wood snare, yes".

A router table is perfectly safe if you pay attention. For wood, not metal, as you said yourself.
 
A friend of mine has a couple old toms (13”, 16”) and they sound like poo. I was wondering if it’d be possible to experiment on the bearing edges. Are there router bits for bearing edges? It seems that’d be proprietary.
 
A friend of mine has a couple old toms (13”, 16”) and they sound like poo. I was wondering if it’d be possible to experiment on the bearing edges. Are there router bits for bearing edges? It seems that’d be proprietary.

You need a table first and foremost. If you had the angled bit to match the edge profile you want (30, 45, 60 degree, or whatever you choose), you can do it if your shell is square, meaning the depth is the same all the way around. A bearing is used at the end of the bit to keep the distance from the bit/shell the same, then you basically set the depth of the bit on the table to match the width of material you want to remove. It's pretty easy, and as long as you keep the shell flush on the table you really can't mess it up. The bearing prevents you from doing so.
 
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