Remote Hihat Cable adj. if you Cut & Solder

Japan Drummer

Junior Member
Hello Folks,

Just wanted to say that I shortened remote cable and got it to actually work better than many shaft ones. The catch is, I had to add a spring in between hihat bushings. This is because once you cut that hefty stainless steel shield off of about 2 inches of cable, it ain't never going to push or lift any weight again. It WILL however pull. So what happens is, your foot pulls the hihat closed and the spring pulls it back up.

Any small piece of steel with zip ties or hose clamps can be used to bridge the portion of the cable where you have removed the shield, reattached and soldered. So what you have is two bare cable ends, soldered back together, visibly sliding back and forth under the piece of steel that you used to secure the two cut ends of the shield.

There are a lot of different springs available. Start medium and then try stretching or cutting the springs.

Hope this works for you. Mine certainly feels/ sounds/ works awesome.

Dave
 
Hello Folks,

Just wanted to say that I shortened remote cable and got it to actually work better than many shaft ones. The catch is, I had to add a spring in between hihat bushings. This is because once you cut that hefty stainless steel shield off of about 2 inches of cable, it ain't never going to push or lift any weight again. It WILL however pull. So what happens is, your foot pulls the hihat closed and the spring pulls it back up.

Any small piece of steel with zip ties or hose clamps can be used to bridge the portion of the cable where you have removed the shield, reattached and soldered. So what you have is two bare cable ends, soldered back together, visibly sliding back and forth under the piece of steel that you used to secure the two cut ends of the shield.

There are a lot of different springs available. Start medium and then try stretching or cutting the springs.

Hope this works for you. Mine certainly feels/ sounds/ works awesome.

Dave




Im skeptical, find this hard to believe.


Can you post some detailed pictures please?
 
Sure, Actually was going to make a video with it moving between the zip ties before I put some permanent clamps on. My explanation could have been lacking, but there's nothing to be skeptical about. A cut cable will NEVER push anything with any force and certainly not enough to lift up a hihat, shift a bike or whatever. That's where the spring between the hithats comes in. It turns both the open and close into a pull action. Your foot pulls it closed and the spring between the cymbals pulls on the cable when it pushes the cymbals open.

I'll show you soon as I get the HD video up. You should be able to see how it works.

Im skeptical, find this hard to believe.


Can you post some detailed pictures please?
 
I like the idea but I'm not sure if a solder joint would hold up to it in the long term.

You do need at least 1/2 inch of overlap, I think. That seems to provide enough strength. I'm using a pretty healthy (230 Watt) gun, too.

You can also clamp them if you can find a clamp tiny enough. I haven't gotten to one yet.
 
Being able to work with wire and metal helps. I weld also and welded some heavy steel nuts onto my beaters as counterweights in cocktail drum setup. Counteracts some of the gravitational pull. I'll show you that one later, too.
 
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