Remote hat cabling

Trexkit

Trexkit

Junior Member
I can get an awesome price on a Pearl RH 2000 remote hat but I'm not crazy about the 8' cable that it comes with. Does anyone know if it can be substituted with shorter one and does it have to be Pearl? Would a DW 2' or 4' cable fit?
T-Rex
 
i dont think you can get a shorter cable, a bike brake might work though? You might want to check that out. You could also shorten it on your own
 
I've never seen one in person, just pictures and it looked like the same cabling that are used on bike cables. I think the best (and only) solution is to check it out and find out how it's attached. Who knows? Maybe with some tinking and ingenuity, I could make a short cable myself....
Thanks for the input, Jon.
 
I would recomend the DW I used the Pearl in a shop and I found it quite slow to respond. I sadly just sold my DW. Fantastic bit of kit I regret letting it go now(despite the fact im moving away and would probably never use it again as its a bit of a gimmick.)
 
...or just get a DW remote hat which can have a different length cable substituted.
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just check Dw's site, i was under the influence there were only 8 and 10 ft cables, they have 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 ft cables for sale
i think you may have your answer trexkit :)
 
I needed to have the cable for my Yamaha remote shortened. I took it to a local machine shop and they cut it down for me (from 96" down to 42"). The cost was twenty-bucks.
 
The only reason I was sticking with Pearl was because of the fantastic deal I could get on it. Brand new, $150 + tax CDN. I only need to have the hi-hats about 8" to a foot over from where they'd normally be but I don't want 8' of cable wrapping around my kit and then having to fight to get it packed away during teardown. I was hoping that someone had used the DW short 2' cable on the Pearl and said that it worked. So maybe the solution is to have it machined? In a perfect world, I'd have the short cable but keep the 8' in case I change it to the other side of my kit. Thanks to all for the posts and suggestions. Keep 'em comin' and once I get pix of what my set up is like, I'll put them up.
 
I normally owuldnt suggest it, but for 8-10" you might want to look at the gibraltar multi adjustable hi hat stand. I have one, i dont use it, but it was ok when i needed it. I got mine in Alberta for $200
 
Trexkit said:
The only reason I was sticking with Pearl was because of the fantastic deal I could get on it. Brand new, $150 + tax CDN. I only need to have the hi-hats about 8" to a foot over from where they'd normally be but I don't want 8' of cable wrapping around my kit and then having to fight to get it packed away during teardown. I was hoping that someone had used the DW short 2' cable on the Pearl and said that it worked. So maybe the solution is to have it machined? In a perfect world, I'd have the short cable but keep the 8' in case I change it to the other side of my kit. Thanks to all for the posts and suggestions. Keep 'em comin' and once I get pix of what my set up is like, I'll put them up.
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Where do you plan on putting it? I put mine next to my ride on the rt hand side of my kit and I need all 8 feet of it. I wrap the cable under the front of the bass and it is just enough to get there. If you plan on using it as your main hat, then I can see why you'd need to shorten it.

F
 
When I post the pix, you'll see what I mean. I want to play flat toms - 8", 10" and 12" on the front of the rack w/ a 16" floor. In order to get that configuration, I've had to modify my Pearl Demon Eliminator to a lefty so my kick is out from under the toms. No problem? Sure, until you try to tweak your hi-hat stand and cymbals to work with the new monstrosity on your left which is the kick. I'm not giving up on this, it's going to work and look sick! I want to keep the long cable in case I move it to the right side of my rack but need the short cable to keep the current set up functional. I think if I get some decent pix from this weekend's gig, you'll see what I mean and get a better understanding of what I need. Thanks for all the input and I'm sorry for trying to write what I need rather than simply post a pic. Thanks to all the drummers with the patience to read and respond.
 
Oh, BTW Pimento - I looked into the Gibraltar remote hat and heard nothing but bad reviews about cables snapping during gigs, during practice and basically breaking WAY before it was meant to. I'm staying away from that.
 
Trexkit said:
Oh, BTW Pimento - I looked into the Gibraltar remote hat and heard nothing but bad reviews about cables snapping during gigs, during practice and basically breaking WAY before it was meant to. I'm staying away from that.
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My Pearl remote cable snapped within a week of owning it. Beware that all remote cable hi-hat pedals have a lag. And with the design Pearl uses for their pedal, it's only a matter of time before it snaps. When that happens, it's not easy to change out...
 
Check out Bill Bachman's Remote Speedy Hat. I'm at work or I would post a link. If you are going to leave it on the left hand side of your kit, it might work better than a remote hat if you are worried about cables and lag.
 
The cable is a weakness on EVERY remote stand, thats why im wary of adding one and a second set of hats to my setup, i think a lot of it has to do with setting it up so youre not stomping the pedal and stretching out the cable constantly.
 
The Bachman remote just looked complicated and cumbersome so I steered away from it. Plus the reason for the Pearl choice was the price. I can get a ridiculous deal on it from a distributor.
Adam! - Did you get your cable fixed and, if so, how?
 
Trexkit said:
Adam! - Did you get your cable fixed and, if so, how?
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I had a different tactic: I returned it to the seller for a refund. If you just have to get a remote hi hat, I wouldn't go with Pearl. They crimp the ends of their cables with a metal peice that makes it very difficult to change the cable. Other companies offer pedals with easier changeover options. Honestly, I don't think it's worth the hassle of knowing it's just a matter of time before it breaks. And as I said before, they lag.
I went with Bill Bachman's Remote Speedy Hat. It's a pretty simple but effective design and is actually faster than a straight hi hat stand.
 
I think I need to get a close up look at one in my friend's showroom. Quite honestly, I keep hearing more problems than solutions regarding the whole process. Might be safer and cheaper to keep tinkering with my set up than to spend money unnecessarily. Thanks for your input.
 
Ok, here is my final configuration - thanks to all who answered, gave their opinions and advice and were interested in what I was trying to achieve. In the end, I've decided to drop the remote hat idea and go with my regular Tama hat stand. Here is my T-Rex, a 1988 Tama Granstar with shells recovered and bought online at Rockenwraps. I stopped using the 13" years ago and still haven't recovered it but the current set up is as follows:

Snare - stock Tama Granstar steel 6.5" (as is)

Snare - Pearl Masters series wood 5"

Toms - 8", 10", 12" (on rack), 16" floor

Kick - 22"

Rack - Dixon

Cymbals and hats - Sabian/Zildijian mix

Kick pedal - Pearl Demon Eliminator converted to left dominant

I've used this setup for two live gigs so far and and have received comments like "WTF?" to "Whoa, never seen a kit like THAT before!". In the end, it's all about the band, the tunes and the audience but hey - this is DRUMMERWORLD, right?

Thanks for indulging me.

Animal.
 

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Does anyone know where I can purchase a Remote Speedy Hat? I'm in Canada and am aware that Bill Bachman has taken a hiatus from this venture. It's a drag for us who heard about this too late. I've heard nothing but good.
Tks!
 
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