Message from EvansPrez

A little history of why the logos are now in the middle. When I started at Vic Firth, I noticed the Pro-Mark stripe on the MTV videos. We made the decision to change the VF logo and move it to the middle of the stick so the logo would show up on the videos and TV shows. It worked well and then Pro-Mark changed their logo position. So long story short, you have me to blame for this change. It was not my intent to cause anybody vertigo when the logo passes their eyes.

Marketing genius if you ask me.

When I was a teen, back when MTV still actually played music video's from bands, I would still there and trying to name the brands of drums, cymbals and such being used by every drummer that came across the screen. I worked in a drum shop after school, so it seemed like a good idea to be up on who used what.

But when it came to stick, there was real no way to tell who used what, except for Promark, because of those distinctive stripes.
 
I just want to say, that this is awesome that you're doing this. And also that you are helping these people here so much with information. Between that and being the PRESIDENT of such a large company and still posting with more frequency than EvansSpecialist did just really shows a lot about the attitude over at Evans.
 
i was wondering if you still make a 6" evens hydraulic head
 
Hey Rick,

I usually don't use Evans heads, but I got a new snare and I figure I'll give them a try.

It's an 12 x 6, I really want to be able to get it down low, for a nice deep but open sound. Definitely some nice sustain. I want a low tuning to compliment the natural high pitch of the drum, so I need something that can go down pretty low without losing the sustain or definition.

Thank you!
 
Forgive me for going off topic a bit, but I decided to try the Remo Vintage A head for my snare, and the bottom ply is detatched/unglued from the main 7mm ply, its kinda flopping a bit. Is this normal? I've never really paid any attention to things like this, just put the heads on and play usually.
 
Forgive me for going off topic a bit, but I decided to try the Remo Vintage A head for my snare, and the bottom ply is detatched/unglued from the main 7mm ply, its kinda flopping a bit. Is this normal? I've never really paid any attention to things like this, just put the heads on and play usually.

You should contact Remo directly but I would say that is not normal.
 
Hey Rick,

I usually don't use Evans heads, but I got a new snare and I figure I'll give them a try.

It's an 12 x 6, I really want to be able to get it down low, for a nice deep but open sound. Definitely some nice sustain. I want a low tuning to compliment the natural high pitch of the drum, so I need something that can go down pretty low without losing the sustain or definition.

Thank you!

I would suggest a coated G2 12". If you want a little more controlled sound try the coated EC2. Rick
 
I just want to say, that this is awesome that you're doing this. And also that you are helping these people here so much with information. Between that and being the PRESIDENT of such a large company and still posting with more frequency than EvansSpecialist did just really shows a lot about the attitude over at Evans.

Thanks. BTW Evans Specialist is working at the DCI championships in Indianapolis this week.
 
I would suggest a coated G2 12". If you want a little more controlled sound try the coated EC2. Rick

All right thanks, I'll try it.

BTW, if you want you can use the multi-quote button, directly to the right of the quote button, to quote multiply people in one post. Just select it (it will turn red) for whoever you want to quote and then click the normal quote button for one of them, doesn't matter which one.
 
Marketing genius if you ask me.

When I was a teen, back when MTV still actually played music video's from bands, I would still there and trying to name the brands of drums, cymbals and such being used by every drummer that came across the screen. I worked in a drum shop after school, so it seemed like a good idea to be up on who used what.

But when it came to stick, there was real no way to tell who used what, except for Promark, because of those distinctive stripes.

Thanks, another interesting thing that happened was I received a few calls from drummers saying that we through the balance of the stick off by adjusting the position of the ink. I didn't feel it but I guess some guys are a bit more sensitive......
 
Gonna try some new pro-marks soon for a new rock stick...

Currently using Regal Tip John Robinson Signature, but hoping these pro-marks will prove greater results.

Gonna try the Terreon Gully Signature, Steve Ferrone Signature, and the Hickory Intruder.

I'll let you know what I think!
 
Gonna try some new pro-marks soon for a new rock stick...

Currently using Regal Tip John Robinson Signature, but hoping these pro-marks will prove greater results.

Gonna try the Terreon Gully Signature, Steve Ferrone Signature, and the Hickory Intruder.

I'll let you know what I think!

thanks for trying them out. Let me know how they work for you. Rick
 
All right thanks, I'll try it.

BTW, if you want you can use the multi-quote button, directly to the right of the quote button, to quote multiply people in one post. Just select it (it will turn red) for whoever you want to quote and then click the normal quote button for one of them, doesn't matter which one.

Thanks for letting me know about that. I'm still getting the hang of this......
 
Back to a possible new stick designation system you promised you would spearhead lol....printing the diameter in mm and the length in mm and N for nylon tip (or not) on the butt of the stick instead of the side of the stick would be great. The ink wears off and I can't make out the 5A or 5B. That's probably too expensive to do though. I'd like it printed or laser burnt on the butt of the stick because they would be easier to read in my stick bag. But a laser burnt designation/logo (if that's possible) on the side would be superior to ink because the ink wears off with my disgusting finger acids. I know that it's not a major issue but since I have your ear...can't hurt to mention

Rick, if I was on your development team, (and I am available for hire, just say the word) the first project I would do (for $100,000 a year w/ full benefits, company car, and drumheads for life) is to make a complete line of white film drumheads. Crazy aggressive marketing, for a line no one else has. Sales would double at least because white film sounds great. Everyone would have to try every model, think of it. I want them myself.
 
Hi Rick

As i already stated by the posts of Evansspecialist Ben Smith (or Mike or Jim):

I explicit support the cause and the way you step in to show your position.

We clearly see, where it comes from and it helps a lot to bring clarity to some long pending questions - and all coming from the Pres himself - what can we ask for more?

GREAT - and yes, this is the real stuff, not spam!!!

Bernhard
 
Rick, if I was on your development team, (and I am available for hire, just say the word) the first project I would do (for $100,000 a year w/ full benefits, company car, and drumheads for life) is to make a complete line of white film drumheads. QUOTE]

Hi Rick,
As far as I can see, there is a market for coated white film drumheads out there. There have been several comments already (like the one above, aside from the joke) and the feeling is that these heads sound better than their coated clear counterparts. I love me some coated G2's, but I would love them even more if they were white film rather than clear. I was doing some research and I think that the film Remo uses for their vintage emperor, which is a coated head over white film, is mylar and not melanex like you referred to before, but I could be wrong. Anyway, don't want to beat a dead horse, but I think you'd have a top seller there.
 
I didn't know this until yesterday but I just discovered that Remo makes smooth white, ambassador weight, single ply heads. The also have a few other smooth white options that I wasn't aware of. Previously I thought that only 2 ply Emps came in smooth white. I am absolutely going to use the smooth white 1 ply ambassador weight heads on my next tom head change. Truth be told, I would rather them be made by Evans, but until that time, the next G1 I was going to buy will be a smooth white ambassador instead. Sorry Rick, but I love the white film.
And cd, that was no joke lol
 
Very refreshing to see you on here,I like it when management takes a hands on approach.I have a couple comments and a question or two.I have used Evans heads before,Gen quality has not been an issue,and I get the impression that along with a good marketing campaign that E is not resting on its laurels,I see improvement of the products and I like that E is always bringing new and different products to the marketplace,so I think that you all will do your best to bring the Pro mark division up to snuff.I recently put some G plus heads on toms of my gigging rock kit and like them,they are 12 ml and seem to hold up well while using 5 b hickory and like sized but heavier pro mark oak 5-b and 808 sticks.Seeing the g plus heads inspired this question about 10 years ago I bought an Evans 22 kick head that I loved,it had a semi translucent tan/slunk head look to it,was textured or texture coated like the g plus,and had the tone ridge,so it was 2 ply at the edge extending out a couple of inches,the beater or outer head part was single ply.I looked on your website for it but could not narrow down the correct model if indeed it is still made.Any ideas if it is still being made?Next topic,I like to play with wood tipped sticks that have a longer thinner taper because they seem to be faster and easier to control,and I use them when practicing and they last a decent amount of time,but when gigging in a classic rock band I tear them up pretty quick so I have been using 5-b sticks that have been thicker at the shoulder and shorter tapered for durability but at the expense of speed and control. Recently some one gave me a pair of wood tip Pro mark 5-B's and I like them a lot,and also bought some oak 808,s,I like the sound,and the shoulder and tips have held up really well,but they are a bit heavy especially by 3rd and 4th set of the evening.I was wondering if there is and oak model that was a little lighter like a hickory 5-A or B,with a longer thinner taper.The problem is that while almost all the retail outlets in atlanta carry pro mark,most only carry three or four base models,a few wood and a few nylon.
 
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