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#241
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The bell is hand scraped and in comparison to a standard lathing pattern, tends to add a bit more complexity to the higher frequency band which is emitted from that area of the cymbal. The difference is quite subtle though. |
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#242
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been reading some of the replys & am wondering if drilling a cracked cymbal is the best option(other than buying new)i have a crack on the edge of my 16" PST5 & it sounds like shit!!(crack is about 2cm)
also,what is the best way to drill? is there certain point's,drill bit's(normal,titanium,gold plated?)size's? im an idiot & cant yet afford a replacement. |
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#243
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I assume since it gets a little support from the bottom cymbal it's a bit less likely to tear further but I definetely want to get it repaired as soon as possible. I'm kind of reluctant to try and fix it myself, because I've never done this, but maybe it's not that dangerous...? |
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#244
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I know this may be pretty irrelevant but my first crash cymbal was a 16" Solar... bad already, I know. I wanted rid of the thing soooo badly but wasn't allowed to cough up money on new cymbals until it was completely dead, SO, as you do, I put a hammer to it a few times creating maybe a 6cm crack down the cymbal and many smaller cracks around the centre-hole, if anything it sounded better afterwards...
__________________
Check out my band: www.myspace.com/flipbansheemusic |
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#245
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I know this is a pretty old thread, but I recently decided I wanted to modify a couple broken cymbals I had. I am currently in the middle of doing a 20'' A custom crash and a 11'' K custom splash. I am using a Dremel tool i bought from Home Depot, That thing is amazing, I was gonna do the tin snip method others were using, but this seemed way more logical.
The crash had a ton of cracks and missing chunks so I cut it down pretty far. Here is a before pic, and another pic of the current stage I am at with it. ![]() Here is phase 2 of the project. Right now it has a really low bell sound, because its so thick, I wish I had a lathe so I could thin it out a bit and get a splashier sound, but since i dont, Im gonna cut it down more leaving about an inch or so from the bell. Hopefully it will give it a higher pitch. This one still has a ways to go. ![]() Now here is a before of the K custom splash. It had some serious damage from years of playing that thing. I loved that splash haha. ![]() Here it is in phase 2. I dont have too much more left to do to this one, I have sanded down the finish since this pic and am gonna polish it up with the buffer on my dremel tool. I am really happy with the way this one is coming, it has a relly nice high bell sound, similar to a zil bell. ![]() I will post more pics and some video when they are finished. I am loving this project and i plan on doing many more. |
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#246
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Here are the 2 finished cymbals, they turned out way better than I expected going into this haha.
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#247
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I cant tell if this is a crack or a scratch in my paiste 2002 ride. It doesnt come through on the other side of the cymbal, but iam afraid its a crack that will develop even more.
__________________
Yamaha maple custom absolute nouveau Paiste 2oo2s |
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#248
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It looks almost like the person using the cymbal on the lathe let it slip for a second and it scraped it.
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#249
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Quote:
I am also using a Dremel tool to do my cymbal mods. I am curious what bits you are having the most luck with? Especially in the "finishing" process; that being smoothing the edges and getting the best "roundness"(shape) out of it? Any input on the "Dremel Method" is much appreciated! |
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#250
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Hi everyone. New to the forum and'd like to share this repair. I've repaired a black label Paiste 2002 18" medium crash that had a crack about 3-4" long using a pneumatic die grinder. I've run the cut-off wheel into a candle first so the alloys from the cymbal do not gum up and stick in the pores of the wheel. Otherwise the cut-off wheel will just kinda slide on the cymbal instead of cutting good. I've made a vid on YouTube. I'd like to add that this compressor was week and the cut-off wheel kept wanting to stop. It would have went alot smoother with a good compressor.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKMGAfWBGMM |
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#251
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It's been talked about, but I've never actually seen anyone do this to a cracked cymbal:
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#252
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This cymbal wasn't cracked, but I was playing around with a Pearl 300 top hat and came up with this.
![]() Has a very interesting sound. Trashy china, but very thin sounding. Much better than the original cymbal, but don't know that it will ever make its way onto the kit. Never know though :)
__________________
Mapex Meridian "I hear and I forget, I see and I remember. I do and I understand." |
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#253
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What do you reccomend I should do to fix my beloved paiste?
![]() Only a small crack but I need to fix it before it gets out of hand. Here's another shot with colour adjusted so you can see it better, ![]() From the original series,
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#254
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I know this topic is a bit dated but i have a question ! I have this 14"crash Meinl cadet series al trashed up and i tried repairing it , it's a very old series i think .. but i have no good use for it s i don't find the sound very exiting . So i wondered : maybe i could transform this old piece of crap into something useful like a crash or a bell .. ow yeah it's a very thick cymbal so .. any suggestions ?
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#255
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I bought a used Sabian AAX 10 inch splash, not soon after I bought it, it started developing a crack right under the bell. I'm not really looking to repair it, but I kind of want to keep it just the way it is without further damaging it. Right now, it gives a good effect with the crack. Any tips?
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#256
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Hi all i am new to this forum and need some ideas/ suggestions please.
I own 2 18" Zildjian A custom cymbals 1 is a Projection Crash The other is a Medium crash the projection i had not used for years as it had a crack in it i just used to use it with hot rods on my elec kit as a ride cymbal and the medium picked up a crack at some point during this summer. Obviously like any one i am gutted that they are cracked i have tried drilling tiny pilot holes in the ends of them to stop the crack spreading its been about 50% successful on one and like 10% successful on the other. I don't want to sell them because 1) even when i crack cymbals i like to keep them and 2) i don't quite appreciate selling cracked ones on as they are nothing like the real thing when undamaged i feel it is unfair on the person buying the cymbal. So basically i am looking for some help and suggestions on modifying these beasts. With one of the cymbals i would like to completely take out the crack with what ever tool i would need and put little pilot holes init so i could insert some rivets and turn it into a rivet crash ride? the other i would like to again take the crack completely out and possibly try and turn it into one of the EFX cymbals that zidljian make. Or alternatively just reduce them to 17 or 16" cymbals? If any one could help me with what tools i would need and how i would go about doing it all it would very much be appreciated. Cheers Carl |
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#257
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Any one any suggestions please?
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#258
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I have these old hi-hat style cymbals that don't fit on my current stand and want to drill the center holes out bigger. Is the best thing to use just a regular drill press or something? I have access to a machine shop with metal lathes and all sorts of fancy stuff.
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#259
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These cymbals were over used and to be honest I hit as hard as i can when i get in to it. By using a hole saw I managed to stop cracks going any further. But I always cut at lest 5mm past where I can see the crack. %90 of the time I found I could get a few more months out of a cymbal + depending on how soon i found the crack and how well cut it out. I also found that cutting a large hole has less chance of a crack starting from the hole rather than cutting a small hole.
I've tried welding and silver solder both are pants wont last one gig. These cymbals pictured aren't a good example though, they were used for just practice with a punk band and I just kept cutting. |
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#260
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Steve B |
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#261
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Where are the cracks?Do they run horizontally,or vertically?Post some pics. Steve B |
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#262
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Steve B |
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#263
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or rather he did... I took it home, chopped it up and made a 14" ring about 2" wide that I put on my auxiliary snare. gives it a programmed-electronic-snare kind of sound. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpUynozoWhk go to 1:58 |
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#264
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Hello everyone, long time lurker, first time poster here.
I have a question about cymbal modification rather than cymbal repair. I have an old pair of Paiste 2002 hats, that I don't use anymore, but can't bring myself to sell, since they were my first. I started to think about modifying them, but since once the deed is done, it's obviously irreversible, I wanted to make sure that I know what I am getting into. From what I gather from this thread, the usual results of modifying cymbals are either Gavin Harrison-ish bells and splashes or a rather dirty China sound. I had the idea to cut the two hats into really odd shapes, like Rudolf Moser, drummer of Einstuerzende Neubauten has done, see here in the background: Soundwise I am looking for really odd sound effects cymbals. My question is, if anyone has any idea what these cymbals might sound like if I cut them, say, in a star- or umbrella-shape. Just trashy? Or if cut them both into the same odd shape, and used them as an effect hihat, if that might sound any good? |
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#265
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Hihats work the way they're supposed to (sonically) because both cymbals (top/bottom) "close up" when you're operating them. The less they "close up" (by modifying their design, doing cuts and asymmetric shaping) the less they'll sound like hihats. So the character should get totally lost.
If you want to go the crazy route - use them as individual cymbals but by all likelihood they'll stop sounding in a reasonable way when using them in combination. There's another alternative: You could drill some holes into them to make them "fast(er)". Thus, leaving the shape alone, they would still close up and resemble hihat sounds. Start with small/few holes and go from there to your taste. Remember you can't un-mod this so do small increments and check how they sound, then proceed if you deem this fit. |
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#266
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Sorry, I didnt get back sooner, and thanks so much for the reply.
From this, and from a drummer friend who damned fainted when I told him about my idea, I figure I wont do a crazy mod, as you have said, anything done to them is irreversible. Still makes me wonder, though, how the Neubauten's drummer has these cymbals, and they don't sound like crap at all. How they can have these weird shapes but still sound like actual ride bells. Is it the thickness of it? |
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#267
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It's been a few months and I have been using it as a China cymbal ever since. It has a nice dry sound, and it works perfectly in my set. It's not a $400 Wuhan China, but it works and it didn't cost me a thing. |
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#268
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Badly broken cymbal. Unrepairable?
Okay, this cymbal is what I think unrepairable: http://i.imgur.com/zeH9v.jpg (Link because it zooms in loads.) I'm assuming I'd have to buy a new one. I found a Rockburn cymbal and boom stand for £40, which is about all I can afford, I'm in need of a new stand anyway so this would help. If it is fixable does anyone know of any ways? |
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#269
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Did it sound good in the first place? I really don't know, never played Pearl cymbals but I do see them coming up on Ebay (used). The only mod I see would be getting rid of the bell section and use the remaining cymbal to stack other stuff for sound effects (think of Hammerax cymbals). I modified a bunch of cracked cymbals into bells and haven't discarded the remaining material but made 'cymbal rings' out of half of them, where there was enough material to work with. Those rings actually produce (maybe even useable) sound. I'm imagining drilling a hole into them and letting them hang down as a pseudo gong. Might sound fine when recorded but they're rather soft in level compared to regular cymbals of course. Another way of 'using' those cymbal rings is to sandwich them with whatever cymbals are big enough to 'clamp' them, e.g. big bells or splashes. Honestly I've never tried this and don't expect to get any superb sounds... but maybe 'interesting' ones. Welding seems to work (if you have connections to someone who can do this) but this specific Pearl has bits and pieces missing even apart from those cracks... no way to get it repaired. |
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#270
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Yeah, that's completely torched mate. Not worth spending a single cent on the thing.
Check ebay for any used entry level cymbal (although pro level will be better if you can afford it)......but .regardless of what it is, it's bound to be better than that Pearl. That thing is the cheapest of the cheap.
__________________
What's the BEST drum key for metal tuning??? |
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#271
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Is there any sort of product that might make a cymbal sound drier? I have a pair of 14" xs20 hats which are very nice but my ideal hi-hats would be a little drier. I've read that brilliant finish on cymbals makes them more clear and glassy sounding, so I was thinking that a removal of this finish might work for me.
Any experience? Thanks. |
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#272
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Hey Guys,
I just found a crack in my Istanbul Agop 21in Jazz Ride. I really hope it is fixable. Some pics below. Also, I bought this cymbal in August of 2011, so it's hardly a year old. The thing is is that I did drill two rivet holes (which I don't even use) - I did that literally the second week of october. For that reason I doubt that Istanbul or Maxwell's Drum Shop will accept a return. However, I honestly believe that the rivet drilling did nothing to the integrity of the cymbal; the crack is a few inches above the logo and the rivets are on the opposite side. It definitely did not break from "over-playing" - it is located just off the bell. Please help me guys, how do I fix/go about returning it? I have to record a college audition prescreening in less than a month and just found this crack today. Thanks Leo From Bottom From top Crack is about 3-4in from Istanbul logo by bell. Notice rivet holes are on the opposite side. |
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#273
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#274
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Leo, I'd drill 'stop' holes at the beginning/end of the crack but make sure the holes are placed at the end of where you think the mini endings of the crack are. Then I'd use a Dremel tool with a cutting bit to remove the cracked area but flex away as few material as necessary. Use some sanding paper to sand the drills/flexed area (something like 200-400 grain).
I think the position of the crack has nothing to do where you drilled the rivet holes, this could be perfectly coincidental. I've 'repaired' a few cymbals myself and small repairs (like with your Istanbul) have close to zero effect on the sound IMO. |
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#275
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#276
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Leo, you can give it a try. You could also mark the ends of the crack, skip drilling the stop holes and use a Dremel to 'clean' the cracked area.
In case you'll replace that cymbal - do you want to sell it? Whoever will buy it will be glad to get a repaired cymbal instead of having to do the repair himself. You might be surprized how good the cymbal sounds after the repair mod. |
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#277
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#278
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Tough break. That's a beautiful cymbal.
Radial cracks are usually manufacturing faults, often due to cooling issues when the bronze is rolled after casting. It may be the case that the shop accept this as a manufacturing issue. I would argue this case if they refuse to return it and point out that the rivet holes (if they mention them) make no difference to a radial crack.
__________________
Propaganda Expert - 'FAQ' Corporation
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#279
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#280
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Leo
__________________
Play like no one is listening. |
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