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Old 09-14-2010, 05:26 PM
Hentex's Avatar
Hentex Hentex is offline
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Posts: 57
Default Drum booth DIY final advice..

Hi guys, this is mainly aimed at people who allready have built and have experience of building soundproofed booths / rooms.



Im making a small booth in my garage to the max the space allowed
The diagram shows dimensions.

I figured i will lose 200mm each wall from the studs

1.single wall Brick garage working space
2. Timber frame fully decoupled from gagrage walls ceiling and floor
3.Outer stud 75mm - 1 sheet acoustic board 75mm mineral wool insulation.
4.10mm Air pocket between Outer and inner stud
5. Inner stud frame
6. Inner stud 75mm - 2 sheets acoustic board green glued 75mm mineral wool insulation
7. Floor 100mm stud, 75mm mineral wool, sound block membrane, sound board flooring, sound blocker acoustic panels, carpet..
8. Ceiling identical to the inner and outer studs.
9. Walls and ceilings fully covered with 40mm triangler wave tiles

I have a neibourghs house about 8 feet from the garage wall and across the street, but the garage is built onto the side of my house.

Will this give me enough sound proofing so i can play without disturbing people in my house and surrounding houses? I will green glue all the joints & boards and acoustic seal every connecting drywall.

I need to know if i missed anything and if it has no chance of working before i put money into materials. I also need your opion on the main space of the booth 1.6m x 1.7m is big enough to fit my kit and me in comfortably. Thanks!
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Old 11-11-2010, 11:41 AM
ArcsDrums ArcsDrums is offline
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Default Re: Drum booth DIY final advice..

I've been looking for information for soundproofing and I found this
http://www.auralexuniversity.com/NeighborsReal.html
They have audio files to show how much these walls soundproof.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-11-2010, 06:10 PM
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Brundlefly Brundlefly is offline
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Location: Foothill Ranch, CA
Posts: 493
Default Re: Drum booth DIY final advice..

You picked a double stud construction and that is a good start. However, you need to ditch all (or most ) of the "sound block/acoustic tile" products in favor of materials that are the most effective. Pile them onto the build from most to least effective as costs permit. You will get a lot better performance and it will probably cost you less than what you describe here.

For good sound proofing performance, there are three contributing factors: mass, isolation and air tightness. Drop any of those three and performance degrades significantly. Looking at your plan, you have a lot of isolation products but little or no mass and airtightness is hard to determine. Here's what I'm getting at:

Why acoustic board/panels? Typically, products described as such are high on isolation or resiliency but low on mass. You should consider making you main wall layers based on Green Glued sheet rock/drywall, preferably in 5/8 thickness. The drywall panels provide mass while the Green Glue provides increased isolation. Green Gluing acoustic panels together is highly subject to diminishing returns by contrast because you are just piling up resiliency. Given the high cost of Green Glue, it is important to focus its roll on being a meaningful resilient layer. Otherwise, you're really just throwing money away.

Given a double 5/8 drywall sandwich is your new standard wall, the next best thing you can do to improve it would be to add totally different kind of isolation. One that does the most to minimize structural borne noise and that would be resilient (or my personal pick, hat) channels for the interior walls.

If you want better performance still, consider adding a layer of Mass Loaded Vinyl directly to one of your walls. This product has the performance profile of lead, from a mass perspective. It allows you to make walls significantly heavier without eating up lots of additional build out space.

If you want to improve things even further, then I would consider things like acoustic panels or sound board as an additional isolation layer between you drywall sandwiches and resilient channels. However, if you have lots of build out space and cash for the additional Green Glue, you will get more mileage from simply adding more layers to your drywall sandwiches.

Make sure your wall plan is well balanced with a door and HVAC plan. Going all out on walls but leaving no room in the budget for HVAC, ventilation or a good door plan will result in a room with great walls that are completely undermined by a weak door or poorly controlled ventilation.

For insulation, consider cotton batting over mineral wool. It's cheaper, slightly more effective and easier to work with. Also consider that, among all the things you plan to do, it is the smallest contributor to performance. In fact, use too much of it or install it incorrectly and it will make things worse.

Finally, when you say "carpet" are you thinking wall to wall carpeting, or an area rug for your kit? I would avoid wall to wall carpeting in favor of hardwood flooring with area rugs as needed to keep the room alive. You can always make an alive room more dead. Much harder to do the opposite.

Want further depth? The Auralex link listed below is a good basic primer on what works. For more on the myriad gotchas and merits of design choices, here's detailed documentation of my latest studio project.
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