DRUMMERWORLD OFFICIAL DISCUSSION FORUM   

Go Back   DRUMMERWORLD OFFICIAL DISCUSSION FORUM > Drum Gear > Other Gear

Other Gear Discuss Hardware and all other equipment not covered in the other topics

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 03-01-2008, 06:56 PM
Shedboyxx's Avatar
Shedboyxx Shedboyxx is offline
Silver Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Posts: 671
Default DCL-300P problem

I've ownd the Pearl DCL-300P drop clutch for a while now. For the most part it's a well made product.

I haven't gigged with it yet as my double bass drum playing is still a work in progress, at least professionally speaking. Also there are just a handful of gigs that some of the double bass material would work on.

I did buy this clutch with the intention of using it at one point though. I'm having an issue with one of the features. Lemme 'splain Lucy.

As with all drop clutches, there is a top assembly that the drop lever operates from and a bottom assembly that holds the hi hat cymbal. The problem is with the lower piece of the bottom assembly that tightens upward to support the cymbal. It is not just a typical flat threaded disc nut (like the ones on upper part of the bottom assembly. It's a threaded chromed piece that tightens upward but also has a drum key adjustable nut that can be tightened to help keep it from loosening and dropping. This nut and how it functions is the issue and has me feeling like I don't have a sufficient understanding of how it works.

I'll put the cymbal on the clutch. I’ll tighten the lower piece to where the threads stop. Then I'll adjust the top disc nuts to where I want them. It’s now ready to go on to the hi hat rod but – I want to take advantage of the ‘extra insurance’ by using a drum key to tighten the onw extra nut on the lower piece.

Here’s the rub. I'll try to tighten the (drum key) nut but it is difficult to. My hi hats are the typical 1 inch apart. The nut tightens against the hi hat rod. If the hats are far enough apart for me to tighten the nut, the width is of course too much. The only ways to make use of this feature(AFAIK) is to unthread the hi hat rod after getting cymbals where you want them, and then tighten the nut or lower the top tube section of the stand. Not fun either way.

Not practical at all. :P

Also, you have to tighten the nut – or remove it. If you leave it loose it vibrates off and you have an instant bottom hi hat sizzle if you get the picture here. :-\

So therefore I’m about to forget about this ‘undocumented feature’ and remove the drum key nut unless someone else can hip me to what I’m doing wrong. I haven’t been too motivated as I’m not Vinnie Paul or Jason Bittner so no big deal. But, by cracky (“Hey Walter Brennan reference!), I paid good devalued and inflated American dollars for this so I’d like to make it work.

Any DCL-300P owners who’ve got this stuff figured out, let me hear from you.

JIm
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-01-2008, 07:34 PM
harryconway's Avatar
harryconway harryconway is offline
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Pasadena, California, U.S.A.
Posts: 9,110
Default Re: DCL-300P problem

A 6mm socket on a drive extension, perhaps.
__________________
This seat does not recline as per Federal Aviation Regulation 121.310 (f)(3)
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-01-2008, 08:48 PM
fourstringdrums
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: DCL-300P problem

I don't think you're understanding what that drum key screw is for.


That drum key screw sticking out of the chrome nut is there as insurance to make sure that the chrome nut doesn't loosen up and fall off. It isn't there to keep your clutch extra secure to the hi-hat rod...in fact it doesn't tighten against the rod at all.

Put your cymbals on, tighten the chrome nut until it stops, then tighten the drum key screw and then adjust your top cymbal with the top disc nuts. That's it.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-01-2008, 08:51 PM
fourstringdrums
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: DCL-300P problem

I don't think you're understanding what that drum key screw is for.



The drum key screw is there to act as insurance against the chrome nut loosening up from vibration and falling off while you play. It's not there to keep your clutch extra secure to the hi-hat rod, in fact it doesn't even tighten against the hi-hat rod. It tightens against the clutch itself.

After you put the cymbal on and thread the chrome nut on you just tighten this screw to lock the nut in place. Then you put your cymbal on the stand and adjust the top two disc nuts.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-01-2008, 09:19 PM
Shedboyxx's Avatar
Shedboyxx Shedboyxx is offline
Silver Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Posts: 671
Default Re: DCL-300P problem

Thanks fourstringdrums for your reply.

I'll experiment with that later today.

My original perception was that when I tightened that nut, there was a noticeable drag on the hi hat rod. I'll try starting out with the clutch off the rod and see if it slips back on the rod easily.

Jim
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-01-2008, 11:19 PM
Mediocrefunkybeat
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: DCL-300P problem

Rob's right. I actually own this clutch as well (long story, I don't even play double bass!) but that's what the nut is for.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-02-2008, 12:07 AM
Les Ismore's Avatar
Les Ismore Les Ismore is offline
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Location, Location!
Posts: 3,435
Default Re: DCL-300P problem

I've ownd the Pearl DCL-300P drop clutch for a while now. For the most part it's a well made product.

I haven't gigged with it yet as my double bass drum playing is still a work in progress, at least professionally speaking. Also there are just a handful of gigs that some of the double bass material would work on.

I did buy this clutch with the intention of using it at one point though. I'm having an issue with one of the features. Lemme 'splain Lucy.

As with all drop clutches, there is a top assembly that the drop lever operates from and a bottom assembly that holds the hi hat cymbal. The problem is with the lower piece of the bottom assembly that tightens upward to support the cymbal. It is not just a typical flat threaded disc nut (like the ones on upper part of the bottom assembly. It's a threaded chromed piece that tightens upward but also has a drum key adjustable nut that can be tightened to help keep it from loosening and dropping. This nut and how it functions is the issue and has me feeling like I don't have a sufficient understanding of how it works.

I'll put the cymbal on the clutch. I’ll tighten the lower piece to where the threads stop. Then I'll adjust the top disc nuts to where I want them. It’s now ready to go on to the hi hat rod but – I want to take advantage of the ‘extra insurance’ by using a drum key to tighten the onw extra nut on the lower piece.

Here’s the rub. I'll try to tighten the (drum key) nut but it is difficult to. My hi hats are the typical 1 inch apart. The nut tightens against the hi hat rod. If the hats are far enough apart for me to tighten the nut, the width is of course too much. The only ways to make use of this feature(AFAIK) is to unthread the hi hat rod after getting cymbals where you want them, and then tighten the nut or lower the top tube section of the stand. Not fun either way.

Not practical at all. :P

Also, you have to tighten the nut – or remove it. If you leave it loose it vibrates off and you have an instant bottom hi hat sizzle if you get the picture here. :-\

So therefore I’m about to forget about this ‘undocumented feature’ and remove the drum key nut unless someone else can hip me to what I’m doing wrong. I haven’t been too motivated as I’m not Vinnie Paul or Jason Bittner so no big deal. But, by cracky (“Hey Walter Brennan reference!), I paid good devalued and inflated American dollars for this so I’d like to make it work.

Any DCL-300P owners who’ve got this stuff figured out, let me hear from you.



Did you mess with the 'set screw'? I'm not saying you should, its not an adjustment. The set screw is there to hold the threaded portion into the body of the 'bottom nut assembly'.



If the set screw became loose and was re-tightened, it may not have lined up with its original hole and caused the condition below. What this 'condition' results in is, the key operated 'holding screw' is rendered shorter and may not have full holding capacity.



Take the unit apart and check if set screw was in original hole. Either way, when you re-assemble, make sure you orientate the piece in its native position (pic 1), where the threaded portion is 'sitting' in the receiver. Should this position be reversed, gravity will cause the set screw to not hit its original hole and you end up with the condition pictured below. Last pic shows a 'bump', surface should be smooth.



Condition: The set screw has bored into the pot metal causing an eruption/bubble or 'bump' onto the flat surface of the threaded insert. As a result, insert won't sit flat inside receiver assembly, thus putting distance between it and the key operated 'holding screw'. Holding screw rendered short(er) and you don't get the tightest grip.



'Condition' solutions:

Ultimate-File or grind flat. Chrome is gone, but who cares, you never see this piece anyway.

Adequate- Wrap threaded portion with rag and insert in a vice, clap flat. This will preserve the chrome. Only do 'bump', be careful not to put too much pressure, pot metal will crack.

Ghetto-Hammer flat. Don't even attempt this. You risk cracking/breaking the pot metal big time, not worth it.
Attached Images
    

Last edited by Les Ismore; 03-02-2008 at 12:25 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-02-2008, 05:38 AM
Shedboyxx's Avatar
Shedboyxx Shedboyxx is offline
Silver Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Posts: 671
Default Re: DCL-300P problem

Les Ismore - Man thanks so much for the elaborate post. That took some time and I appreciate you going the extra 5 miles.

I'll be testing te clutch over the next few days and seeing if some of the problems you outlined are evident. If there is the problem I'll have no qualms about filing it down.

Thanks to all who have chipped in here.

Jim
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-02-2008, 07:01 AM
Les Ismore's Avatar
Les Ismore Les Ismore is offline
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Location, Location!
Posts: 3,435
Default Re: DCL-300P problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shedboyxx View Post
Les Ismore - Man thanks so much for the elaborate post. That took some time and I appreciate you going the extra 5 miles.

I'll be testing te clutch over the next few days and seeing if some of the problems you outlined are evident. If there is the problem I'll have no qualms about filing it down.

Thanks to all who have chipped in here.

Jim
What you also don't want to do is 'crank' the bottom nut assembly onto the clutch. As soon as it hits bottom, that's when you need to stop, don't make it tight, just lightly snug, then tighten the key operated screw to lock in place.

The threads on the set screw are steel and will 'key-hole' the pot metal (like in pic 3). Is it a poor design? More like crappy materials... again, there should be a steel thread insert for that set screw.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are Off
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off




All times are GMT +2. The time now is 07:11 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Bernhard Castiglioni's DRUMMERWORLD.com