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  #41  
Old 02-27-2007, 05:30 AM
Shinx Shinx is offline
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Thats definatelly a very cool pedal setup. Cool idea for the hi-hats but they seem a little close to the ride for me. Obviously you are used to it, looks cool for open handed playing

Edit: Apparently I can't think of any good adjectives right now :\
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  #42  
Old 03-03-2007, 03:42 PM
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I love the ideas you're putting in here DMC. Amazing job. I'm gonna get meself a welder soon.. hahaha

And your kit must be the most... 'customized' kit out there with hardware perhaps no one else has. Cool. Keep bringing out the ideas.
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  #43  
Old 03-03-2007, 10:57 PM
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Thanks, k3ng and Shinx. I've got a lot more stuff to display and I'll keep adding it. Also, feel free to put up any stuff you've done - it doesn't have to be fancy. I like seeing what other people are doing. At the top of this thread are some other threads discussing mods and the people there are doing some great stuff as well.
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  #44  
Old 03-08-2007, 01:32 AM
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CEILING MOUNTED MIC STAND

When the band comes over, I like to record the session because it helps to learn new songs. I have a small practice room and the mic stand and cords would keep getting in the way, with two or three people and their gear in a small space.

The ceiling mount mic stand provides a good way to mic stuff without taking up floor space. I painted, drilled and mounted a desktop mic base to the ceiling, drilled and grommeted holes and ran mic cable through. I used a 3/8-inch coarse threaded rod to go into the base screw adaptor (available at any music store) and that connects with a mic boom. Velcro keeps the mic cables in line and there is several feet of cable stowed in the ceiling. The mic cables run through the ceiling and down a wall to a mixing board, which is connected to a CD recorder. Simple, but it works!

Mic stand stowed, out of the way of people of average height.


Mic cables come out of the wall through a steel cover plate, drilled and cushioned with rubber grommets. The phono out lines go to the CD recorder.


Mic stand extended for use. I have rod extensions to allow the boom stand to go much lower if necessary, even to ground level for miking tablas. But this range is excellent for general ambient recording of practice sessions.
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  #45  
Old 03-09-2007, 10:30 PM
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DJEMBE STAND

I used to integrate my djembe into my drum set, putting it to my left so I could play ride patterns on it with my left hand and keep my right hand on the snare/hats/ride cymbal. So I welded this stand, using a ring roller. I still use this stand when playing the djembe in conjunction with congas. Otherwise, I put the djembe between my legs sitting or hang it from a strap standing.

This shows the stand holding the drum.


This is the stand without the drum. The bottom ring is actually quite a bit larger than the top ring. I put many layers of plastic handle coating on the top ring to cushion and grip the drum.


I flip the stand over and the drum nests inside. Everything fits in the transport bag.
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  #46  
Old 03-10-2007, 03:13 AM
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ok you need to open your own company and make stuff for drummers. I would buy a lot of the stuff that you have made.
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  #47  
Old 03-10-2007, 04:00 AM
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That mic mount is awesome and just a great idea. Really well done too. I'd love to play all that crazy stuff you have
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  #48  
Old 03-12-2007, 07:27 PM
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THE WEATHER MACHINE

Thank you, gentlemen. Ramping up a business is just too much hassle, so I just make these one-offs for myself, but if anyone wanted one I'd consider doing stuff on commission. Because I have pretty basic tools, I can't manufacture these in any quantity and anything I'd charge would barely cover time and materials.

Below is the Weather Machine. It's not so much a hardware mod as an interesting way of mounting stuff. It consists of (top to bottom) a Meinl rain wheel (sounds like rain), LP temple blocks (sounds like clouds), LP chimes (sounds like sunlight) and and LP feng luo (wind gong, sounds like wind and thunder). It's all mounted on some unknown '80s vintage stand. I put this together about ten years ago and it's mainly for accents and adds a lot of drama to shows, but it don't use it much.

Front view. I have to rotate the stand for maximum stability as it's front-heavy. A screw secures it to the wall while at home. Mallets store on the instruments.


Back view. Pretty strightforward mounting, except the wind gong hangs from the chime mount with Velcro to prevent wandering. I use roller skate bearings to secure the rain wheel, assuring smooth operation.
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  #49  
Old 03-31-2007, 04:01 PM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

Cool stuff, Im going to make a cowbell/tambourine holder soon......

also, DMC, is that a modern drummer kit of the month I spy on your wall?

Is it your kit?
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  #50  
Old 04-06-2007, 03:27 PM
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I did not have a holder for my tamburine, so I put together a few things to make room for it:









=








-Mofle
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  #51  
Old 04-06-2007, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mofle View Post
I did not have a holder for my tamburine, so I put together a few things to make room for it:

-Mofle
Good work! The best mods are where you don't have to modify things very much and just use stuff that's already laying around.

I'd like to see a photo taken from farther away, so we can see how the new tambourine fits into your set.
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  #52  
Old 04-06-2007, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathmetalconga View Post

I'd like to see a photo taken from farther away, so we can see how the new tambourine fits into your set.
It works great, by the way. The crash doesn't hit the tambourine at all. I did not have to tighten the felts, so the crash moves freely, as it is supposed to.
Here you are:

Left:



Right:




As you can see, I have made an x-hat, the way someone (I can not remember who) did here on the forum. That was a great way to make an x-hat! Thanks!

-Mofle
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  #53  
Old 04-06-2007, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by fijjibo View Post
Cool stuff, Im going to make a cowbell/tambourine holder soon......

also, DMC, is that a modern drummer kit of the month I spy on your wall?

Is it your kit?
Indeed it is. That is the Dec. 1999 issue. My ironwood kit has since replaced it. But the Kahuna Set took a huge amount of modifying. I did things with drums and percussion that you're just not supposed to do and I couldn't find any mounts, so I had to have a friend develop my designs. In the process, I learned about doing my own mods.

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  #54  
Old 04-06-2007, 11:25 PM
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That looks amazing! Do you have any clips, playing it? Sound, or video. I would like to see some pics of you behind it too, to get a look of how you sat\played aso...
(Not that you Ironwood isn't superb)

-Mofle
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  #55  
Old 04-07-2007, 06:49 AM
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Well there is a short story behind this DIY. I went to sam ash to return a broken cymbal, got there,and they said i have to send it in myself. I was dumb and didnt read the warranty, it clearly says that. So im at samash and figured i should look around. I was looking at some of the hardware they have and saw the Danmar wooden beaters. I thought, ive seen a lot of metal drummers using these maybe ill give them a shot. There was no price tag so i said " they cant be more than 12 bucks each right?" I proceed to the checkout to find out that they are 20 bucks each! Thats 40 bucks for double beater! I went home and decided to make some myself.

I used the shaft off of some old felt beaters that came w/ stock pedals ive had. The wood came from the leg of a chair! This chairs legs were not straight they, they had designs in them, some parts rouded and others pointy. Hard to explain ill post a pic when i get back home. I took a part of the wood that was rounded and cut a peice big enough for the shafts that had. All I had to go then is sand them down a bit and dill holes. I chose to drill the holes off center so i would have more adjustment. I think they are a great option to spending 40 bucks on Danmar beaters. Total cost, free for me, i had the chair lying around. For those who want to do this i would say go to ur local home depot or hardware store and see if they sell decorative legs, if they dont just but a peice of 2x2 or 3x3 and sand it down a bit, square beaters might be cool too.
Anyway heres some pics.






next ill be bending the shaft in two places to give the beater more of a foward angle.
|
|
\
.\
..|
..|
like that^^

p.s. this post has made me realize how hard it is to describe shapes lol.
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  #56  
Old 04-08-2007, 01:24 PM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathmetalconga View Post
Indeed it is. That is the Dec. 1999 issue. My ironwood kit has since replaced it. But the Kahuna Set took a huge amount of modifying. I did things with drums and percussion that you're just not supposed to do and I couldn't find any mounts, so I had to have a friend develop my designs. In the process, I learned about doing my own mods.

I see, awesome.

well done old chap ;-)
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  #57  
Old 04-08-2007, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mofle View Post
That looks amazing! Do you have any clips, playing it? Sound, or video. I would like to see some pics of you behind it too, to get a look of how you sat\played aso...
(Not that you Ironwood isn't superb)

-Mofle
Thanks for the comments. The Kahuna set was a lot of fun to play, like a giant toy.

There is one clip online. Go to our band's Web site www.terrasonus.com and the clip "Atman Soliloquy" on the Listen page features the set. However, it really takes a whole CD to hear each of the percussion items played. I was in some bands a few years back that featured the whole set and you can hear it on the MondoRagaSamba CD Katsu vailable at www.cdbaby.com. But there is no other way to hear it online.
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  #58  
Old 04-08-2007, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianW View Post
Well there is a short story behind this DIY. I went to sam ash to return a broken cymbal, got there,and they said i have to send it in myself. I was dumb and didnt read the warranty, it clearly says that. So im at samash and figured i should look around. I was looking at some of the hardware they have and saw the Danmar wooden beaters. I thought, ive seen a lot of metal drummers using these maybe ill give them a shot. There was no price tag so i said " they cant be more than 12 bucks each right?" I proceed to the checkout to find out that they are 20 bucks each! Thats 40 bucks for double beater! I went home and decided to make some myself.

I used the shaft off of some old felt beaters that came w/ stock pedals ive had. The wood came from the leg of a chair! This chairs legs were not straight they, they had designs in them, some parts rouded and others pointy. Hard to explain ill post a pic when i get back home. I took a part of the wood that was rounded and cut a peice big enough for the shafts that had. All I had to go then is sand them down a bit and dill holes. I chose to drill the holes off center so i would have more adjustment. I think they are a great option to spending 40 bucks on Danmar beaters. Total cost, free for me, i had the chair lying around. For those who want to do this i would say go to ur local home depot or hardware store and see if they sell decorative legs, if they dont just but a peice of 2x2 or 3x3 and sand it down a bit, square beaters might be cool too.
Anyway heres some pics.

next ill be bending the shaft in two places to give the beater more of a foward angle.
|
|
\
.\
..|
..|
like that^^

p.s. this post has made me realize how hard it is to describe shapes lol.
Very good! The contrast between the old-world look of the beaters with the high-tech look of the Axis pedals is a neat contrast.

It is possible to buy round wooden balls of about that size at most hardware stores. But I like how you found suitable materials around the house and did your own thing. The outrageous cost of gear has led me to do my own mods in many cases. Heck, for a lot of the stuff I want to do, no one makes gear for it. I recently made my own beaters with a couple of those giant superballs ($1 each out of a vending machine). They're not as bouncy as you'd think and they really fatten the sound.

You might want to glue a piece of felt to one side of the beaters and sand another side flat. Then you'd have different playing surfaces to use.
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  #59  
Old 04-12-2007, 10:59 PM
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MOUNTING FENG GONG ON CYMBAL STAND

I did this mod perhaps 10 years ago. Actually, it was my concept and design, but my friend Dirty Ed did it because I didn't have many tools back then and he has great stuff.

These gongs have a great sound - they're sometimes called Ascending Gongs. People carry them in parades and hit them on the flat part with sticks and the make a crazy, weird metallic sound that rises at the end, in the space of about a second. As soon as I got this I wanted to mount it, but of course you can't put a hole and mount it like a cymbal. So I came up with this solution.

The metal rods are padded with tubing where they touch the gong metal and the nut screws onto any 8 mm stand. The ends of the three arms are threaded and a small nut keeps the gong in place


Shown mounted from the side.


Shown from the bottom
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  #60  
Old 04-18-2007, 09:01 PM
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Cool stuff man, I was just looking at pics of your woodshed, and am truly amazed at the number of options you can put in a single room....

good work, all of you.
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  #61  
Old 06-08-2007, 07:36 PM
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GIMPING A CYMBAL STAND FOR NO-LEG HIHAT STAND

In my never-ending quest to streamline and reduce my hardware, I did this following mod. I removed one of the legs from the DW ride stand (I play open handed, ride on left). I got one of those two-legged DW 5000 hats and removed the legs, clamping it to the "gimp" tripod. The foot plate of the hihat stand locks into place, so it serves as the missing leg of the tripod. So, instead of having up to six leg contact points, I have just two. This frees up room for another foot percussion pedal.

Setup minus cymbals. I put Velcro on the stands and clamp jaws, showing correct location during setup and preventing scratching. Two clamps ensure rock-solid support.


As installed in set. Stand leg placement gives plenty of room for foot pedals.


Close-up. I figure I saved a fair amount of bulk and about six pounds in hardware weight with the mod - which I of course immediately gained back with the second foot percussion pedal. The only downside is that setup is a bit trickier, as a two-leg cymbal stand doesn't stand up very well!
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  #62  
Old 06-15-2007, 08:36 PM
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O.k. this is not quite a DIY Mod, but when I designed my drum I thought to myself damn I don't need no stinkin' rim suspension system, so I designed my lugs to accomodate my DIY suspension system,
and taking the toms of the stand is not necessary for head change, even if most of us probably do it anyway.



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  #63  
Old 06-18-2007, 04:14 AM
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O.k. this is not quite a DIY Mod, but when I designed my drum I thought to myself damn I don't need no stinkin' rim suspension system, so I designed my lugs to accomodate my DIY suspension system,
and taking the toms of the stand is not necessary for head change, even if most of us probably do it anyway.
Very cool. I'm really interested in your suspension system. How did you make that? I've seen those before, ones that have four contact points on lugs on opposite sides, but I forget the manufacturer. Neat how you just made your own!
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  #64  
Old 06-18-2007, 06:21 AM
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O.k. this is not quite a DIY Mod, but when I designed my drum I thought to myself damn I don't need no stinkin' rim suspension system, so I designed my lugs to accomodate my DIY suspension system

That is pretty cool. How do you go about making your custom stuff? It looks like a finished pro product. Very nice.
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  #65  
Old 06-18-2007, 03:11 PM
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Very cool. I'm really interested in your suspension system. How did you make that? I've seen those before, ones that have four contact points on lugs on opposite sides, but I forget the manufacturer. Neat how you just made your own!
The key to it was the design of the lugs, so it can accommodate the suspension system.
The system itself is regular 3/4" aluminum flat material from Home Depot.
I bend them a little outwards the tom holder goes a little further into the Pearl holder.
The pearl tom holder I bought of course, after that I brought it somewhere for powder coating.
I will take some picture with the suspension system off, that clears some thing up, because the lugs underneath the suspension system differ slightly from the other ones.
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Old 06-18-2007, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
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The key to it was the design of the lugs, so it can accommodate the suspension system.
The system itself is regular 3/4" aluminum flat material from Home Depot.
I bend them a little outwards the tom holder goes a little further into the Pearl holder.
The pearl tom holder I bought of course, after that I brought it somewhere for powder coating.
I will take some picture with the suspension system off, that clears some thing up, because the lugs underneath the suspension system differ slightly from the other ones.
Your work is very finely finished and looks OEM quality. I do a lot of mods, some of them pretty good, but I have trouble getting stuff to look so professional.
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Old 06-20-2007, 01:10 AM
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CONVERTING A STICK DRUM TO A HAND DRUM

I got one of these foot-controlled variable-pitch Talkit drums last year at www.b-radpercussion.com. He has stick and hand models and the stick models have standard Remo drumheads and triple-flanged hoops, while the stick models have conga-style rims and goatskin heads.

I wanted the ability to play my Talkit by hand, yet still keep the option to play with sticks. So I used a hacksaw and Dremel to remove the rim of the hoop, exposing the head where it goes over the bearing edge, much like a Comfort Curve conga or bongo rim. The drum uses cables to control tension and the cables are anchored to the hoops with eye bolts and nylon lock nuts. I removed the lock nuts and got some low-profile carriage bolts and extra-deep connector nuts.

As a result, I can comfortably play this with my hands, or incorporate it into my drum set for stick playing. Aside from chopping the hoop, I have done nothing permanent to change this remarkable instrument and I could put it back to OEM with little effort.

Close up showing chopped hoop, carriage bolt and deep nuts.


As played in percussion setup. The foot pedal for controlling the Talkit drum is between the conga stands and a bicycle cable connects with the drum's pulley system.
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Old 06-21-2007, 04:04 AM
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Default Another DIY internal mic mount

I've got a show coming up Saturday at an outdoor festival. The band changes are really quick, so I called up the sound company to ask for advice. They suggested that I have all my mics already mounted up, so when we set up the drums, all we have to do is plug in and set levels. Easy enough with my toms/snare, but I wanted to have my bass drum ready to go, too. So I devised a mount using one L-bracket, two hose clamps, and some rubber sheeting that you use to keep things from sliding around in drawers. I just used the upright shaft from my regular bass drum mic stand and clamped it to the L-bracket, then mounted the L-bracket inside the bass drum with a lug screw. Several layers of the rubber sheeting provide cushioning (and hopefully enough isolation for my purposes.)The cable runs right out the tom mount bracket, which I don't use.

Pic 1 shows the remains of my original mic stand (it all screws back together)
Pic 2 shows the bracket screwed to the inside of the drum
Pic 3 is a front view
Pic 4 shows the mic installed and the cable run through the mount. I'm trying the mic pointed at the reso head, per DMC's suggestion. A quick recording indicates it'll sound fine - we'll see how it sounds through the PA Saturday!
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  #69  
Old 06-25-2007, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDDrummer View Post
I've got a show coming up Saturday at an outdoor festival. The band changes are really quick, so I called up the sound company to ask for advice. They suggested that I have all my mics already mounted up, so when we set up the drums, all we have to do is plug in and set levels. Easy enough with my toms/snare, but I wanted to have my bass drum ready to go, too. So I devised a mount using one L-bracket, two hose clamps, and some rubber sheeting that you use to keep things from sliding around in drawers. I just used the upright shaft from my regular bass drum mic stand and clamped it to the L-bracket, then mounted the L-bracket inside the bass drum with a lug screw. Several layers of the rubber sheeting provide cushioning (and hopefully enough isolation for my purposes.)The cable runs right out the tom mount bracket, which I don't use.

Pic 1 shows the remains of my original mic stand (it all screws back together)
Pic 2 shows the bracket screwed to the inside of the drum
Pic 3 is a front view
Pic 4 shows the mic installed and the cable run through the mount. I'm trying the mic pointed at the reso head, per DMC's suggestion. A quick recording indicates it'll sound fine - we'll see how it sounds through the PA Saturday!
Very cool and elegant mod, with no permanent alteration of the drum or essential components. How did it sound at the gig?

One question: What do you do when you need to mount the toms in the bass drum? Or have you switched to permanent suspention for the rack toms?
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Old 07-03-2007, 08:02 PM
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Default Re: Another DIY internal mic mount

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Originally Posted by Deathmetalconga View Post
Very cool and elegant mod, with no permanent alteration of the drum or essential components. How did it sound at the gig?

One question: What do you do when you need to mount the toms in the bass drum? Or have you switched to permanent suspention for the rack toms?
I use a Tama double tom stand for the rack toms, generally. I haven't used the bass drum mount for quite a while. If I wanted to use it, I guess I would have to run the mic cable through the vent hole or maybe install a female XLR jack directly into the shell.

BTW, it sounded great at the gig! Setup was a breeze - I set up, plugged in, and setting levels took less than a minute. Entire sound check took maybe 5 minutes. They had a good sound company working the event, thank goodness.
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Old 07-03-2007, 09:52 PM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

you guys all have great ideas...i wish i could come up with genius stuff! keep 'em coming!
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  #72  
Old 07-08-2007, 02:00 AM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=28640

Thought I would try this on this thread also. Have fun viewing.
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Old 07-08-2007, 02:34 AM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

im going to have to secretly do that when my shop teacher is looking the other way.........im defenintly going to use those ideas if thats ok with you.......jeez........brilliant!
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Old 07-08-2007, 03:08 AM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

Be my guest. That's what we are here for. Just remember...Safety glasses.

Three dollars for a four foot piece of Oak, used about 18 inches.
Fourteen dollars for the 3/8th inch pieces of aluminum rod, one 8 footer, one three footer.
A Dremel tool with drill press stand, hack saw, sandpaper. etc etc etc.

A trade secret...Well not really. The chimes are 3/8th inch thick and I drilled a whole every 5/8th inch in the wood to tie them on. This puts them close enough to touch without a lot of force. Any closer won/t help and any further away and you would have to really move them to have them touch. Shhhhh....
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Last edited by GRUNTERSDAD; 07-08-2007 at 08:33 AM. Reason: more info
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Old 07-09-2007, 06:21 PM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

Quote:
Originally Posted by GRUNTERSDAD View Post
http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=28640

Thought I would try this on this thread also. Have fun viewing.
Great idea, fun project, thanks for sharing it here. I've added this to the index of related threads on the first post of this thread.
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  #76  
Old 07-10-2007, 03:01 AM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

Thanks for the inclusion DMC.
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Old 07-10-2007, 09:42 PM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

Quote:
Originally Posted by GRUNTERSDAD View Post
Be my guest. That's what we are here for. Just remember...Safety glasses.

Three dollars for a four foot piece of Oak, used about 18 inches.
Fourteen dollars for the 3/8th inch pieces of aluminum rod, one 8 footer, one three footer.
A Dremel tool with drill press stand, hack saw, sandpaper. etc etc etc.

A trade secret...Well not really. The chimes are 3/8th inch thick and I drilled a whole every 5/8th inch in the wood to tie them on. This puts them close enough to touch without a lot of force. Any closer won/t help and any further away and you would have to really move them to have them touch. Shhhhh....
One idea on the build: you may find the string wearing out a lot. I have a pair of LP chimes that were strung with Kevlar thread and they wore out before long and the chimes started dropping. Also, they used staples to attach the thread to the wood and that abraded the thread a lot.

Instead of more thread, I used the smallest possible plastic cable ties. I removed the staples and used very small eye screws to hold the cable ties to the wood frame. I clipped the cable ties of excess material.

The sound of the chimes is slightly less brilliant and the chimes stop moving a little sooner (I prefer to use the term "more controlled and focused") because the cable ties are a heavier than the thread. But they still sound great and are extremely durable.


You might be able to see the results in these photos:


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Old 07-11-2007, 04:02 AM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

Mine are strung with 15 pound monofilament line. They are not tied singly but I used one long piece. Starting from the back going thru the wood thru the rod and then back thru the wood. There is two strands going thru the wood but only one thru the rods. After I drilled the holes I used a small burring bit and sort of counter sunk or smoothed out the hole to get rid of sharp edges. Only time will tell how long they last but to re-string the whole thing only takes about an hour. As I pull the line back thru the wood the second time, I peg the hole with a round toothpick so as not to have it droop until I get the next rod strung. I use about 3 pegs and move the first one after I get the third hole pegged, etc. I am going to buy some braided fly fishing backing line and restring this set. I actually came home tonight and drilled another piece of oak and added 8 more bars...its 30 now. Sounds gorgeous.
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Old 07-21-2007, 03:59 AM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

Simple Axis bottom plate mod, adds stability, playability w/heavy playing.

Mod plate: 1/4" thick aluminum stock
7" across the front
6" across at the rear
5 7/8" amidships
14 1/4" front to back

Stock plate:
5 1/4" across the front
4" across at rear
3 7/8" amidships
14" front to back

Less tipping side to side under heavy playing with the bigger plate(s). This mod is easy, you have stock plate as a template with holes already in place. Design of mod'ed plate follows the stock outline, larger of course.

Mark out the shape, cut on band saw, grind edges, mark, punch and drill holes, obviously a sharp bit and a drill press or mill works beat. Counter sink bottom holes, assemble, done.

Axis will probably do this mod for you if you inquire, may or may not be cost effictive compared to local machine shop. If your in school, easy metal shop project.

Foot board plates are 16 ga aluminum stock cut to custom shape that loosly resembles stock Axis foot board. Wider foot boards facilitate barefoot heel-toe technique. These plates are velcro'ed on top of stock Axis foot board(s).

The black layer on top is a Wal-Mart item called 'Foamies' 9x12" sheets of 2 mm thick foam with an adhesive backing found in the 'craft section' and .50 a sheet, cut to shape, peel and stick. Great for bare foot playing.
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Old 07-21-2007, 05:32 AM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

Nice job Les. Always fun to be able to make your own modifications. That has to be as stable as an aircraft carrier being that wide. Again, good job.
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