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  #1  
Old 02-07-2007, 08:00 PM
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Default HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

INDEX OF OTHER HARDWARE MOD THREADS:

techristian plays mindblowing four-way foot patterns and created this cowbell mount especially for right-foot playing
Tired of gangly stands? tbmills shows his OEM-quality chop job along with how-to steps
tbmills kickin' it with a very clean installation on an internal bass drum mic mount along with a helpful tutorial
Fourstringdrums' clever and simple method to convert a cymbal stand to a secondary hihat stand
Glen Thomas' amazing homemade edrum trigger, foot percussion mount, foot-operated snare
leo_battery wanted a double pedal so bad, he just made his own
Time Bandit's finely machined mini-stackers
GRUNTERSDAD, a true dipstick, shows ingenious method for non-slip grip coating

Limey and friends find the best way to mount/convert a 13-inch tom into a bass drum
GRUNTERSDAD chimes in with method for making your own chimes.
Junglelord shows his almighty gong drum, made from a standard bass drum and djembe stand.
Bobrovsky, the Russian with a giant drum set, created a cable-driven double pedal setup and a cable-driven gong striker.
bears_eating_drums had little cash but lots of ingenuity and came up with this unusual foot percussion mount
Someone patent this! VegasDrummer69 came up with a one-legged snare stand.

I've always liked working with metal and tinkering. I like making my own custom drum hardware and discussing drum hardware and I see a lot of other people on this board like working on their own hardware as well. DIY projects save money and allow you to create drum set arrangements not possible with off-the-shelf hardware. You can see this hardware on my set at http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=18719. If you have a hardware mod - even if it's humble duct tape - this is the place to share it. If your lock nut is stripped and you need help, hopefully you will find some help here. If you'd like to do something but you're not sure of how to proceed or what tools you'd need, this is also a place for answers.

I can tap, thread, cut, bend, weld, drill, roll rings and hoops and even do a little milling. However, my metalworking skills are very crude compared to what a professional machinst could do. But I am able to make my own custom stuff, do any repairs and my work has held up well to the abuse of drumming.

Below is a recent hardware project, a triple cymbal stacker. Most stackers keep your cymbals like five feet apart, or there is no offset. I used 1/4 inch steel rod, some extra-deep nuts, 8 mm bolts, a MIG welder and a few other items to make these stackers, which have about three inches of distance and offset. I can pick out the cymbals individually, or do a dramatic rake of all of them. Knurled Allen bolts keep the stackers from spinning loose. All washers are welded to the nuts and all felts are glued to the washers, minimizing the amount of small pieces to drop.

Stackers alone


Stackers with cymbals - bottom view


Stackers with cymbals - top view

Last edited by Deathmetalconga; 09-18-2008 at 06:33 AM. Reason: Index update
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  #2  
Old 02-07-2007, 08:07 PM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

That is so so good. Great idea. Put your name on it before a company steals it!
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Old 02-07-2007, 08:42 PM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

Very nice. I wish I had the knowledge/tools to do stuff like that. The only modification I've ever done to hardware is this:

http://drummerworld.com/forums/showt...=closed+hi-hat

and this http://www.handidrummed.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15 (which I no longer use)

Both didn't require the skill that yours did, but it was a cheap solution none the less.
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Old 02-07-2007, 09:02 PM
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Very nice. I wish I had the knowledge/tools to do stuff like that. The only modification I've ever done to hardware is this:

http://drummerworld.com/forums/showt...=closed+hi-hat

and this http://www.handidrummed.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15 (which I no longer use)

Both didn't require the skill that yours did, but it was a cheap solution none the less.
Great idea!

While your idea isn't technically hard, it is accessible to just about anyone and you showed a lot of ingenuity in figuring this out, especially since you don't do this a lot and used simple tools. I don't think a mod or DIY should require a flux-core wire-feed MIG welder to be good or useful (although it sure helps me sometimes!). In fact, simpler and cheaper is better. It's fun to use the fancy tools but I sometimes have to pull myself back and force myself to use the simplest approach possible, even if it involves nothing more than a razor and pliers.

Thanks for putting the link here. I bet there are a lot of other threads with a single DIY project that could/should be linked up.
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:20 PM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

wow, i wish i could make something like that.
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  #6  
Old 02-08-2007, 05:56 PM
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BASS DRUM CRADLE:

I got a new custom drum kit with an 18-inch bass drum, ordered without spurs to minimize penetrations. I looked at all the stock options for raising the drum but couldn't find anything I liked. Either I'd have to drill a bunch of holes in the drum or I'd have to schlep around a 50-pound cradle.

So I used my hoop roller and welder to make my own cradles. I went to a local gasket maker and got this really thick neoprene to create clearance for the tuning bolts, then put Velcro on the bottom of the hoops and top of the cradles. I put scratchy Velcro on the bottom of each cradle so it grabs on to carpet. I love Velcro and use it for just about everything. One of the cradles has a "foot" welded on for the bass drum pedal clamp.

This works well. I can actually leave the cradles on when I put the drum in its Hardcase and the Velcro holds everything together. The steel flexes slightly, allowing just a little give and bounce as it suspends the drum. It's all painted dark silver/gray - chroming is way beyond anything I could do.

Front cradle on drum


Rear cradle on drum


Cradles alone
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Old 02-09-2007, 05:49 PM
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FOOT PERCUSSION HOLDER

For about 10 years, I used one of the enormous and heavy LP Gajate foot pedal mounts for percussion items. I noticed that I never did adjust it and it was a pain to carry around, being about the approximate size of a Scud launcher. So I thought to make my own out of a section of steel beam and some 3/8 inch rod. A bit of tapping and threading secure it to itself and the pedal.

While it is not at all adjustable, it doesn't matter because I raise or lower the beater for different size percussion items.

Bracket mounted to pedal


Tambourine mounted to bracket


LP block mounted to bracket


Cowbell mounted to bracket
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Old 02-09-2007, 08:30 PM
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FOOT PERCUSSION HOLDER

For about 10 years, I used one of the enormous and heavy LP Gajate foot pedal mounts for percussion items. I noticed that I never did adjust it and it was a pain to carry around, being about the approximate size of a Scud launcher. So I thought to make my own out of a section of steel beam and some 3/8 inch rod. A bit of tapping and threading secure it to itself and the pedal.

While it is not at all adjustable, it doesn't matter because I raise or lower the beater for different size percussion items.

Bracket mounted to pedal


Tambourine mounted to bracket


LP block mounted to bracket


Cowbell mounted to bracket
Awesome. And the total cost to make this vs. a Gajate?
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Old 02-09-2007, 09:15 PM
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Awesome. And the total cost to make this vs. a Gajate?
I'm not sure about the materials cost. I go to the local scrap yard a couple of times a year and pick up odd pieces of metal as well as various size rod. Maybe a couple of dollars for these particular pieces and the bolts, including a couple of mounting rod prototypes that didn't work out. It took about three hours to make from start to finish, including perfecting the design and some brief trials. I like doing this kind of thing so the time isn't an expense anyway.

I think a Gajate is now around $89, at least for the original model. They have a revamped model that isn't quite so ginormous and that goes for around half that.

If you have a vise, hacksaw, tape measure, large pliers, propane torch and a file (just about every garage does), you could be doing some basic stuff like this, especially simple percussion mounts. Music shops sell chrome 3/8" rod but it's very expensive. You could get hot-rolled rod at the hardware store for much less and, with the tools above, you could bend it to your custom specs. If you add in a cheap $10 tap and die set from Slave Harbor Tools (www.harborfreight.com) you will be able to make an exponentially greater variety of mounts. If you like puttering and making things, this is just plain fun, as you know from the clever auxiliary hihat mount you came up with

My next post will be a simple percussion mount requiring only basic tools.
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Old 02-09-2007, 09:23 PM
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I'm not sure about the materials cost. I go to the local scrap yard a couple of times a year and pick up odd pieces of metal as well as various size rod. Maybe a couple of dollars for these particular pieces and the bolts, including a couple of mounting rod prototypes that didn't work out. It took about three hours to make from start to finish, including perfecting the design and some brief trials. I like doing this kind of thing so the time isn't an expense anyway.

I think a Gajate is now around $89, at least for the original model. They have a revamped model that isn't quite so ginormous and that goes for around half that.

If you have a vise, hacksaw, tape measure, large pliers, propane torch and a file (just about every garage does), you could be doing some basic stuff like this, especially simple percussion mounts. Music shops sell chrome 3/8" rod but it's very expensive. You could get hot-rolled rod at the hardware store for much less and, with the tools above, you could bend it to your custom specs. If you add in a cheap $10 tap and die set from Slave Harbor Tools (www.harborfreight.com) you will be able to make an exponentially greater variety of mounts. If you like puttering and making things, this is just plain fun, as you know from the clever auxiliary hihat mount you came up with

My next post will be a simple percussion mount requiring only basic tools.
Hmm I may have to enlist you to make me a few things :)
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  #11  
Old 02-10-2007, 12:58 AM
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Hey Deathmetalconga,

Thanks for the excellent foot percussion bracket idea! I've been thinking about getting a gajate bracket for a while and the cost was a big drawback. The lack of bulk is a nice bonus too.
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Old 02-10-2007, 04:18 AM
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I made a straight cymbal stand a few years back out of chromoly steel, braising all of the joins with an oxy. It worked well, but the folding legs died after a while, so I haven't seen it in a while.
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Old 02-10-2007, 11:16 PM
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I made a straight cymbal stand a few years back out of chromoly steel, braising all of the joins with an oxy. It worked well, but the folding legs died after a while, so I haven't seen it in a while.
Wow, you do brazing. I'm too lazy to try gas welding, although I admire the neatness of gas welds. I use flux-core MIG welding which takes relatively little skill, but the drawback is the welds aren't as attractive.

Brazing is a whole other area to get into. How did the legs break? Unfortunately, stands are made of low-grade pot metal that is relatively soft and doesn't weld well.

www.terrasonus.com
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Old 02-11-2007, 05:30 AM
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I've primarily done the little things,

- 4 Spurs on 16" Inch Virgin Bass Drum (acts as a riser)
- Butt end of stick and metal rod, making a natural sounding cowbell beater
- Self made muffling rings
- Pre-muffled bass drum beater
- Sympathetic vibration resistant snare wires.

I do plan on having a go at some larger things eventually, but its the little things that count.
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Old 02-11-2007, 05:49 AM
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- Sympathetic vibration resistant snare wires.

I do plan on having a go at some larger things eventually, but its the little things that count.
How exactly did you do that? Sounds very interesting to me considering my (at the moment) horrible snare wires

Edit: Also, great idea for a thread DMC
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Old 02-11-2007, 06:12 AM
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Wow, you do brazing. I'm too lazy to try gas welding, although I admire the neatness of gas welds. I use flux-core MIG welding which takes relatively little skill, but the drawback is the welds aren't as attractive.

Brazing is a whole other area to get into. How did the legs break? Unfortunately, stands are made of low-grade pot metal that is relatively soft and doesn't weld well.

www.terrasonus.com
Well, I'm about as good at MIG welding as a blind amputee with Parkinsons ;)

It was the joints at the base, I can't really remember what exactly happened. I think the rod that was used as the pivot on the folding legs (which was welded into place) bent or something and the leg was stuck. I remember that it was something that was fixable, but I was too lazy and decided the stand didn't work well enough, nor did I have a real need for it.

Brazing is great, it's s much stronger. About 3 years ago in school I made a big bike out of 1 1/4 inch tubing, and there was going to be so much stress on some joins that MIG welding may not hold, so I had to learn to braze. It also looks great, because the colour difference, and it doesn't get bubbles like MIG welding can.

The engineering course I'm staring at Uni has a team that builds and races a car in a national competition which I'm going to try and sign up for this year. They fabricate just about everything themselves except some components and things that need to be made from CNC billet aluminium.

And I'm not that ugly b*stard on the bike either....

Biz
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Old 02-11-2007, 07:29 AM
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Shinx - search for 'droz's drum problems'

That details how i did it, mainly, clipping out the middle 6-8 strands of your snare wires. Same response, no buzz.
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Old 02-12-2007, 06:00 PM
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Well, I'm about as good at MIG welding as a blind amputee with Parkinsons ;)

It was the joints at the base, I can't really remember what exactly happened. I think the rod that was used as the pivot on the folding legs (which was welded into place) bent or something and the leg was stuck. I remember that it was something that was fixable, but I was too lazy and decided the stand didn't work well enough, nor did I have a real need for it.

Brazing is great, it's s much stronger. About 3 years ago in school I made a big bike out of 1 1/4 inch tubing, and there was going to be so much stress on some joins that MIG welding may not hold, so I had to learn to braze. It also looks great, because the colour difference, and it doesn't get bubbles like MIG welding can.

The engineering course I'm staring at Uni has a team that builds and races a car in a national competition which I'm going to try and sign up for this year. They fabricate just about everything themselves except some components and things that need to be made from CNC billet aluminium.

And I'm not that ugly b*stard on the bike either....

Biz
Man, if you made your own bike frame with brazing, you have some serious skills. There are a few times when I would have preferred brazing, like for joining thin tubing that would be destroyed with welding, or joining two different metals. Brazing is excellent for all kinds of stuff.

I encourage you to share more of your drum hardware mods, or start getting busy with some - you obviously are at a high skill level and have access to some great tools.

www.terrasonus.com
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Old 02-12-2007, 06:02 PM
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I've primarily done the little things,

- 4 Spurs on 16" Inch Virgin Bass Drum (acts as a riser)
- Butt end of stick and metal rod, making a natural sounding cowbell beater
- Self made muffling rings
- Pre-muffled bass drum beater
- Sympathetic vibration resistant snare wires.

I do plan on having a go at some larger things eventually, but its the little things that count.
Sounds neat - how about some photos? I am always interested in seeing how other people do things.

www.terrasonus.com
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Old 02-13-2007, 05:56 AM
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Pretty much everything is in the thread i mentioned before, my drum sounf problem solving thread, and the four spurs drum is in my baby gigkit thread.

Haven't got pics up fo the new cowbell beater, seeing if it works at a gig soon!
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Old 02-14-2007, 09:15 PM
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BASS DRUM INTERAL MIC MOUNT

I don't like a big hole in the bass drum head - it looks screwy being able to see inside the drum. Yet drums do sound better with internal miking and it's more convenient. I set out to mount my Audo Technica PRO-25 bass drum mic inside my 18 by 18 inch Spirit Dums solid ironwood shell. I showed an earlier version of this at http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10 but this is the finished concept. No drilling into the shell was done.

These are the basic mount materials. I got an extra-deep nut to secure the lug and support the mic mount. The mount is 3/8 inch rod with a bolt welded to one end (goes in the lug nut) and bent to 90 degrees and threaded on the other end to accept the brass mic mount adaptor. I painted it black - just felt like it.


This is how the mic is mounted, looking toward the resonant head. After much trial and error and a couple of different sized mounts, I discovered that pointing the mic away from the batter head, toward and just a few inches from the resonant head, produced the fattest sound. I cut four 3/4 inch venting holes in the resonant head and glued black foam behind them, making them practically invisible from the outside. Venting was necessary as the airtight drum overpressured and produced a "piiiiing" sound, similar to slapping an inner tube.


View looking toward batter head, showing wiring through vent hole. I cut the XLR cable and soldered it to a Tip-Ring-Sleeve female socket, sometimes called a stereo-quarter inch. It fits a quarter-inch, but it's really wired like XLR. At the othe end of the cable I soldered a TRS male plug.


Outside view showing TRS plug going into shell. Now, miking the bass drum is as simple as slipping the plug into the socket.


Drumhead showing venting holes. If you look carefully, you may be able to see the four venting holes, located in an arc in the black dragon scales near the bottom of the head. They are invisible under stage lighting.
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Old 02-14-2007, 09:48 PM
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Very nice once again man :) Have you every thought of patenting anything?

Got a question maybe you can answer...if you were going to shorter a hi-hat rod, what would be the easiest, cleanest way to do it. It's always bothered me having almost a foot and a half of rod that just gets in the way that I'm never going to use.
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Old 02-15-2007, 12:30 AM
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Do you have access to a drop saw and belt sander? Just cut with the saw and smooth back the edge on the sander; 2 minute job maximum. Failing that, you could do it with an angle-grinder and preferably also a vice. Again, just mark, cut and smooth up the rough edges a bit.

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Old 02-15-2007, 06:28 AM
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Do you have access to a drop saw and belt sander? Just cut with the saw and smooth back the edge on the sander; 2 minute job maximum. Failing that, you could do it with an angle-grinder and preferably also a vice. Again, just mark, cut and smooth up the rough edges a bit.

Biz
Nope, I have neither...I'm not even sure what you mean by drop saw *lol* :) What are the cheapest tools that I could buy that would still do a pretty good job?
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Old 02-15-2007, 07:16 AM
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this is a drop saw


and this is a belt grinder



Hey, I don't have them at home either. Do you have any friends or family who rate themselves as reasonable handymen who may have these tools? Or possibly a fabricator/turner & fitter/etc who may let you do it or just do it for you?
It's a simple job; hell, my little sister could do it and she's in year 7. These aren't a necessity though.
If you don't know anyone who will let you use their shed for 5 minutes, there's the more labour intensive option..... the hacksaw and coarse grit sandpaper.
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Old 02-15-2007, 07:45 AM
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Nope, I have neither...I'm not even sure what you mean by drop saw *lol* :) What are the cheapest tools that I could buy that would still do a pretty good job?
After 20 years of service, my hihat pull rod was bent beyond repair last year and I made a new one. I purchased the cold-rolled steel rod, cut it and threaded it.

But just chopping one down is easier. You'll need a hacksaw to cut the rod. Then you'll need to file or grind down the remaining pull rod so it doesn't scratch you. You can pick up metal files and hacksaws in the discount bin at Ace hardware or the neighborhood dollar store. Really, a drop saw and belt grinder would be overkill for a task like this. You could do it for a couple of bucks in tools and a little elbow grease.

You should have a vise, though. A decent vise is at the heart of any workshop and essential for all sorts of stuff. Are you married? You can justify tool expenditures to the wife if you start fixing stuff around the house. Plus, that will improve your tinkering skills. I've been collecting tools seriously for about 15 years and I'm always trying to fix or make something. Like drumming, it's a fun skill to have and another creative outlet.

I went by a place this afternoon that makes gaskets here in town and they just gave me 10discs, 9 inches in diameter, made of tough flexible rubber about 1/16 of an inch thick. I used a hole punch to put a half-inch hole in the center of each one and they'll go between my cymbals while in transit (I use a Humes & Berg Enduro case and they sometimes rattle against each other). I suppose I could also use the discs as mufflers, or get some more of this material to make my own custom mufflers for drums and cymbals - they're made of the same stuff as the purpose-made mufflers, but they're much, much cheaper and you can make them to your own specifications.
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Old 02-15-2007, 11:10 AM
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Really, a drop saw and belt grinder would be overkill for a task like this. You could do it for a couple of bucks in tools and a little elbow grease.
Yeah, but I'm lazy. If I was sitting there in a workshop with a rod to be cut down, i wouldn't consider the hack saw with a perfectly good drop saw just sitting there...
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Old 02-15-2007, 03:28 PM
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After 20 years of service, my hihat pull rod was bent beyond repair last year and I made a new one. I purchased the cold-rolled steel rod, cut it and threaded it.

But just chopping one down is easier. You'll need a hacksaw to cut the rod. Then you'll need to file or grind down the remaining pull rod so it doesn't scratch you. You can pick up metal files and hacksaws in the discount bin at Ace hardware or the neighborhood dollar store. Really, a drop saw and belt grinder would be overkill for a task like this. You could do it for a couple of bucks in tools and a little elbow grease.

You should have a vise, though. A decent vise is at the heart of any workshop and essential for all sorts of stuff. Are you married? You can justify tool expenditures to the wife if you start fixing stuff around the house. Plus, that will improve your tinkering skills. I've been collecting tools seriously for about 15 years and I'm always trying to fix or make something. Like drumming, it's a fun skill to have and another creative outlet.

I went by a place this afternoon that makes gaskets here in town and they just gave me 10discs, 9 inches in diameter, made of tough flexible rubber about 1/16 of an inch thick. I used a hole punch to put a half-inch hole in the center of each one and they'll go between my cymbals while in transit (I use a Humes & Berg Enduro case and they sometimes rattle against each other). I suppose I could also use the discs as mufflers, or get some more of this material to make my own custom mufflers for drums and cymbals - they're made of the same stuff as the purpose-made mufflers, but they're much, much cheaper and you can make them to your own specifications.
Don't they make small cutting blades (circular) that you can attach to a power drill? Also doesn't a dremel bit come in handy for smoothing out metal?
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Old 02-15-2007, 07:46 PM
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Don't they make small cutting blades (circular) that you can attach to a power drill? Also doesn't a dremel bit come in handy for smoothing out metal?
I've never heard of metal cutting blades that attached to a power drill. How could it work? Power drills are low speed/high torque and a round blade would make it difficult to control, maybe even a bit dangerous. As I recall, pull rods are 3/16 or 1/4 inch. A hacksaw would go through that in 10 seconds, assuming the rod is in a vise. While a hacksaw is low speed, the blade is straight so you can control it.

There are small grinding stones that attach to hand drills and those are useful. I didn't know you had a hand drill. What all sorts of tools do you have?
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Old 02-15-2007, 11:03 PM
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I've never heard of metal cutting blades that attached to a power drill. How could it work? Power drills are low speed/high torque and a round blade would make it difficult to control, maybe even a bit dangerous. As I recall, pull rods are 3/16 or 1/4 inch. A hacksaw would go through that in 10 seconds, assuming the rod is in a vise. While a hacksaw is low speed, the blade is straight so you can control it.

There are small grinding stones that attach to hand drills and those are useful. I didn't know you had a hand drill. What all sorts of tools do you have?
I don't have many tools. I have the power drill, and then I do have a hack saw, but the blade is shot, so I'd have to get another one. I don't have a vice. I'm not the handiest guy with tools, hence the lack of them :)
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Old 02-16-2007, 12:18 AM
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BASS DRUM INTERAL MIC MOUNT

I don't like a big hole in the bass drum head - it looks screwy being able to see inside the drum. Yet drums do sound better with internal miking and it's more convenient. I set out to mount my Audo Technica PRO-25 bass drum mic inside my 18 by 18 inch Spirit Dums solid ironwood shell. I showed an earlier version of this at http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10 but this is the finished concept. No drilling into the shell was done.

These are the basic mount materials. I got an extra-deep nut to secure the lug and support the mic mount. The mount is 3/8 inch rod with a bolt welded to one end (goes in the lug nut) and bent to 90 degrees and threaded on the other end to accept the brass mic mount adaptor. I painted it black - just felt like it.


This is how the mic is mounted, looking toward the resonant head. After much trial and error and a couple of different sized mounts, I discovered that pointing the mic away from the batter head, toward and just a few inches from the resonant head, produced the fattest sound. I cut four 3/4 inch venting holes in the resonant head and glued black foam behind them, making them practically invisible from the outside. Venting was necessary as the airtight drum overpressured and produced a "piiiiing" sound, similar to slapping an inner tube.


View looking toward batter head, showing wiring through vent hole. I cut the XLR cable and soldered it to a Tip-Ring-Sleeve female socket, sometimes called a stereo-quarter inch. It fits a quarter-inch, but it's really wired like XLR. At the othe end of the cable I soldered a TRS male plug.


Outside view showing TRS plug going into shell. Now, miking the bass drum is as simple as slipping the plug into the socket.


Drumhead showing venting holes. If you look carefully, you may be able to see the four venting holes, located in an arc in the black dragon scales near the bottom of the head. They are invisible under stage lighting.

Thats reall cool how the mic is wired and the venting holes are invisible. Thats really neat, if you ever sold any of that I would defintley look into it. Really, I would pay some good money for those. Or at least try and make them myself! : D

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Old 02-16-2007, 02:23 AM
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Ok I shortened my hi-hat rod.

The hardware store didn't have any vice clamps left, so I used just a spring loaded clamp to hold the rod to the table.. Only $3. I then cut 8" off the rod. That of course took forever, and the blade kept hanging up so it made it take even longer, but it did it :)

I then used a power drill mounted grinder point to smooth the end, and round it off on the top slightly. That was only about $3 too.



As you can see from the side, it looks like a straight cut and not rounded at all, but from the top you can see the rounding a bit.





It looks pretty good actually, I really surprised myself. The top isn't flawless finish wise, a few scratches, but who cares :) I did make sure to set my hi-hat at the highest height, with the cymbals open the widest I would ever possibly use, just in case. I wound up having more left over than I originally measured, but it's enough to get out of the way of other cymbals and looks clean.

The final result:



I wound up spending $30 at the hardware store though because I had to get a new hacksaw blade and they only sell them in packs ($11) and then I had to buy a heavy dutry ice scraper $10, but that's unrelated to this :)

Thanks for all the help guys!
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Old 02-16-2007, 07:27 PM
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Ok I shortened my hi-hat rod.

The hardware store didn't have any vice clamps left, so I used just a spring loaded clamp to hold the rod to the table.. Only $3. I then cut 8" off the rod. That of course took forever, and the blade kept hanging up so it made it take even longer, but it did it :)

I then used a power drill mounted grinder point to smooth the end, and round it off on the top slightly. That was only about $3 too.

As you can see from the side, it looks like a straight cut and not rounded at all, but from the top you can see the rounding a bit.

It looks pretty good actually, I really surprised myself. The top isn't flawless finish wise, a few scratches, but who cares :) I did make sure to set my hi-hat at the highest height, with the cymbals open the widest I would ever possibly use, just in case. I wound up having more left over than I originally measured, but it's enough to get out of the way of other cymbals and looks clean.

The final result:

I wound up spending $30 at the hardware store though because I had to get a new hacksaw blade and they only sell them in packs ($11) and then I had to buy a heavy dutry ice scraper $10, but that's unrelated to this :)

Thanks for all the help guys!
Good job! Sounds like you thought it through in advance. I encourage you to try other mods and feel free to ask us all if you need advice.

Also, stop showing photos of your Bosphorus. I start drooling all over the keyboard and it gets messy!
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Old 02-16-2007, 07:43 PM
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Good job! Sounds like you thought it through in advance. I encourage you to try other mods and feel free to ask us all if you need advice.

Also, stop showing photos of your Bosphorus. I start drooling all over the keyboard and it gets messy!
Probably the only other mod I may try is shortening a cymbal arm so it can be mounted off a bass drum tom holder.

Well once my Gretschs come in (IF they ever come in..they're supposed to be here today but DHL's tracking isn't updated and due to the "winter storms" we had on WEDNESDAY I may not have it until Monday, if it shows up at all, I'll post some pictures of the completed kit. So you'll have to see them again :)
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Old 02-17-2007, 08:30 AM
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Probably the only other mod I may try is shortening a cymbal arm so it can be mounted off a bass drum tom holder.

Well once my Gretschs come in (IF they ever come in..they're supposed to be here today but DHL's tracking isn't updated and due to the "winter storms" we had on WEDNESDAY I may not have it until Monday, if it shows up at all, I'll post some pictures of the completed kit. So you'll have to see them again :)
Tinkering with hardware is addictive. If you have the skill and inclination and a few more tools, I assure you, you'll be doing much more than just shortening cymbal arms. You already show good aptitude and resourcefulness in the improvised hihat holder.

Please do show us your new Gretsches when they come in. I get like a Pavlovian dog when I see a UPS truck, even if it's just next to me in traffic. I imagine it must have some cool drum stuff in there!

I checked out handidrummed.com and it's an inspiration. I was moved with the stories of people who drum despite missing limbs, nervous problems and joint conditions. It made me reflect on my own desire and commitment - if an accident or illness like that happened to me tomorrow (and it very well could), would I have the determination to find a way to keep playing drums somehow, some way? Your site should be required reading for all drummers, regardless of ability.

www.terrasonus.com
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Old 02-17-2007, 05:11 PM
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Tinkering with hardware is addictive. If you have the skill and inclination and a few more tools, I assure you, you'll be doing much more than just shortening cymbal arms. You already show good aptitude and resourcefulness in the improvised hihat holder.

Please do show us your new Gretsches when they come in. I get like a Pavlovian dog when I see a UPS truck, even if it's just next to me in traffic. I imagine it must have some cool drum stuff in there!

I checked out handidrummed.com and it's an inspiration. I was moved with the stories of people who drum despite missing limbs, nervous problems and joint conditions. It made me reflect on my own desire and commitment - if an accident or illness like that happened to me tomorrow (and it very well could), would I have the determination to find a way to keep playing drums somehow, some way? Your site should be required reading for all drummers, regardless of ability.

www.terrasonus.com
Thank you very much, I appreciate it. I'm glad the site can help all drummers.

The Gretsch's didn't come. The seller used DHL and they quite frankly, suck. They lost a Pacific CX kit I ordered a few years ago. It was supposed to be delivered yesterday but it just arrived in the local facility this morning, so I'll have it monday hopefully. What I hate though is their tracking system is terrible. There are two tracking numbers, one of them still says it's in a transit facility in the next state, and the other tracking number which hasn't updated at all since he shipped it, now says it's in the local facility.

As long as they don't lose this one it'll be ok.

Last edited by fourstringdrums; 02-17-2007 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:17 PM
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CYMBAL/PERCUSSION HOLDER

I hate putting just one thing on a stand. I saw I could use the built-in clamp on my tom stand to hold something, so this is what I came up with.

I started with 3/8 rod, then welded an 8mm (standard cymbal size) bolt to one end and threaded the other end for an extra-long nut. I cut plastic tubing to cover the bolt and prevent keyholing. I use Slicknuts and glue the felt to the washers, minimizing parts and fumbling during set-up and take-down.


This shows the LP Ice Bell and Pete Englehart agogo bells attached. After careful measurement, I put a bend in the rod.


The extra-long nut fits inside the tom stand clamp and holds the instruments securely. Because this is 3/8 inch rod, I can mount any standard percussion item to it - cowbells, blocks, tambourines, etc.


How it appears from above.
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Old 02-21-2007, 08:08 PM
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Once again, sweet man :) That's great. I love the kit too. Those Fiberskyn(?) tom heads are very slick.

The only other thing I did lately was cut down and smooth/round down a bit the rod on my bass drum cowbell holder. It was getting in my way.
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Old 02-22-2007, 09:14 PM
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The only other thing I did lately was cut down and smooth/round down a bit the rod on my bass drum cowbell holder. It was getting in my way.
That's something a lot more drummers should consider doing. There are all sorts of rods and tubes that stick out way more than they should, adding weight and inconvenience to the set.

Also, thanks for the nice comments on the set. Imagine when those Zildjians are all swapped out for Bosphoruses!
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Old 02-26-2007, 07:43 PM
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Default Re: HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

LEGLESS HIHAT STAND

I like to cram a lot in a little space. When I got my new drum set in August, I started reconfiguring things and I discovered I could conserve space by removing the legs from my hihat stand and securing it to a cymbal stand. This is a fairly easy modification that saves space and weight.

Side view. The stand is an old Tama double-braced stand from 1985, the oldest item on the drum set. This stand has been with me for a long time and I wanted to use it, so I got a Dremel and carefully ground off the rivets holding the legs to the collars. I could re-assemble the legs if I ever needed to.


Close-up of the clamping system. It's an old CB700 cast aluminum clamp, mid-1980s vintage. They sure made some tough gear back then. I put Vecro inside the clamp jaws and on the cymbal and hihat stands. This marks the correct position for fast setup, protects the chrome and keeps the grip rock-solid.


Front view.


As used in the set. The control pedal for a foot-operated talking drum is on the left, while a DW5000 percussion foot pedal is on the right. I wouldn't have the room for all these pedals with a conventional tripod stand, or even a two-leg stand, owing to the proximity of the very large ride cymbal stand.
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