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  #161  
Old 03-14-2012, 10:41 PM
throughthecities throughthecities is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

So I'm repainting and finishing an old cheap kit for my brother's birthday. I have painted the shells with regular latex based interior wall paint (lime green leftover from painting my kitchen)
I want that standard high gloss lacquer finish that's on most finished sets, but I am becoming very indecisive about what to choose for the coating.

The lady at home depot said I should only use high gloss polycrylic (only comes in a can- not spray form)

Then as I'm reading various forums/blogs, they say urethane, and stay away from lacquer. But other places say lacquer works just fine.

Needless to say, I'm pretty befuddled with what to choose and what will work best with my interior latex paint job.

Oh, and what works best for cleaning up old, rust-spotted hoops, lugs, etc?

Anyone have any suggestions?
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  #162  
Old 03-21-2012, 01:45 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

I see alot of modifications in the visual realm, Anyone ever cut down toms?

I have so far, built my own keller shell 5.5x14 snare, refinished that awhile back, and taken a wrap off an old 8" Rogers tom and refinished it in black satin stain to match my raven black yamaha stage custom.

I would like to cut down the toms, thinking at least an inch and a half off each with the exception of the 8".

I have access to a 15" lathe, so I can accurately cut down the shells, then Probably build a table router setup to recut bearing edges.

Then now this thread is inspiring me to repaint my whole kit... GM Sunburst Orange and black hardware anyone?
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  #163  
Old 04-17-2012, 05:34 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Double Post...

MY modification to an old rogers 8" tom to retrofit a yamaha YESS mount...

MAde brackets...


Machined standoffs...




Made a retainer plate


Holes Drilled


Mount assembled with ruber washers for insulation


Mounted up
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  #164  
Old 04-17-2012, 11:31 PM
drummerboyfitz drummerboyfitz is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Quote:
Originally Posted by throughthecities View Post
So I'm repainting and finishing an old cheap kit for my brother's birthday. I have painted the shells with regular latex based interior wall paint (lime green leftover from painting my kitchen)
I want that standard high gloss lacquer finish that's on most finished sets, but I am becoming very indecisive about what to choose for the coating.

The lady at home depot said I should only use high gloss polycrylic (only comes in a can- not spray form)

Then as I'm reading various forums/blogs, they say urethane, and stay away from lacquer. But other places say lacquer works just fine.

Needless to say, I'm pretty befuddled with what to choose and what will work best with my interior latex paint job.

Oh, and what works best for cleaning up old, rust-spotted hoops, lugs, etc?

Anyone have any suggestions?
I have refinished quite a few drums and my favorite finish (so far, I've tried a lot of different ones) is a floor finish made by Varathane. I use their water based polyurethane for gloss coats. It dries fast, looks brilliant, and the more (very thin) coats you use, the more glossy the finish. As far as rusted hardware goes, I've found that super fine steel wool works well. Use the finest grade you can find, and work each spot slowly and carefully so as not to scratch the chrome.
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  #165  
Old 04-17-2012, 11:36 PM
drummerboyfitz drummerboyfitz is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PenguinAudio View Post
Why don't you seen drums that are varnished/stained on the inside as well as the outside?

I'm about to begin de-wrapping my maple kit and do a Tobacco Satin Oil finish, and I think it would look awesome with the inside done and clear heads.

Has anyone here done that, or seen it done?
I really like running over the interior of a shell I'm finishing with a 400 grit sandpaper (once!), cleaning it, then rubbing it down with teak oil. Teak oil is an oil based finish used to waterproof, rehydrate, and stain boat decks. I've found it's perfect for the interior of a drum - especially with older shells, which tend to be very dry. The oil leaves a beautiful color on the wood, allowing the natural grain to show through.
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  #166  
Old 05-12-2012, 11:43 PM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

So I want a 16" floor tom for my Prolite kit:

A. $900 USD to order from a dealer stateside

B. 578 Euros to order here in Germany (about $751)

C. I found a used 16x16 S Class Pro Maple floor tom.

So a 5mm all around shell vs 4mm + 2mm at the reinforcing rings for the Prolites. I don't think there will be much of a sound difference.

Now if I choose to be perfectionist I will buy me a set of the updated lugs, drill another set of holes and call it a day. The plan is to take high quality pictures of my kit (or use ones from Sonor's brochures) and have a high quality graphic vinyl printed. Will either do self adhesive or use a spray on type.
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  #167  
Old 09-20-2012, 03:14 PM
bearblastbeats bearblastbeats is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Last year I was going through my dad's shed and grabbed his old Luddy that he hasn't used in about a decade. This is a late 1970's Ludwig octa-plus he purchased new about 30+ years ago.

My dad never took take of it so for a fathers day present I took it upon my self to breathe new life back into this kit.

I stripped the Marine Pearl wrap from it since it was pealing away from the toms. Each tom had a line of rivets pressed into the shell to hold the seams of the wrap together. After removing all of the adhesive I then filled all the holes and cracks with "plastic wood". I then sanded the kit for about 50 hours with a hand sander, not an electric palm sander (didn't want it to come out of round) and re cut the bearing edges.

After sanding, I then put three coats of lacquer on it. I decided against a stain because the wood had so much character to it all ready. I soaked all of the hardware in a 5 gallon bucket filled with denatured alcohol for a day or two then scrubbed the grime off it with a tooth brush.

When I re-assembled it, I decided against putting some of the unnecessary hardware on the toms to keep the weight down.


The next thing I plan to do with this kit is to convert the 18" floor to a bass drum. The 24 BD is just too much. I will then do the same steps I did originally with the two left over smaller toms and use the smallest as a rack (I think its an 8, maybe a 10) and use the 14 as the floor tom. Pics will follow
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  #168  
Old 10-12-2012, 10:30 AM
sptimmeh sptimmeh is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Man bearblastbeats or whatever your name is how much do you charge? :P That is some nice work...
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  #169  
Old 10-20-2012, 03:46 PM
ZTruax24 ZTruax24 is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Why exactly do drummers change all the stock heads and cymbals?.......im a drummer, i was trying to explain it to my parents with getting a new set and they dont understand.
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  #170  
Old 10-20-2012, 09:39 PM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZTruax24 View Post
Why exactly do drummers change all the stock heads and cymbals?.......im a drummer, i was trying to explain it to my parents with getting a new set and they dont understand.
I don't change the heads, I use them till I need to change them (as I don't have the cash) and while I get used to the new drums. If I change kits and have decent heads on the older one, I might swap them over.

The cymbals however are more "I like these ones, because I like them. They are MY sound." If I were to get a new kit and it came with a set, I'd try them out, see if there's a couple I like and sell the rest (or if they aren't too bad keep them for "just in case").

I had the stock heads (Remo UX) on My kit for ages... they weren't too bad. And I would still have the "stock" cymbals (Paiste PST3) now had they not been stolen.
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  #171  
Old 12-11-2012, 05:12 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

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Originally Posted by ZTruax24 View Post
Why exactly do drummers change all the stock heads and cymbals?.......im a drummer, i was trying to explain it to my parents with getting a new set and they dont understand.
Sound quality, a good set of heads tuned properly is the determining factor on whether or not your drums produce eargasms, or if they make people leave the building. After a while, the heads will lose their bounce and their ability to sustain a good tone, old heads will also un-tune fairly easily, so you will find yourself with a different sounding drumset by the end of your show. I can always tell, especially on my snare, when I need a new head because the tension rods with come loose and wobbly after intense rimshots. Tom wise, I just look at how they look and feel coming off the stick. If stick marks have turned your clear head completely opaque, thats usually my cue to pick up a set of new heads.
Resonant heads (the bottom ones) pretty much never need replaced after you put a good set on, stock reso's are fine, but spending $30 to pick up some good reso's makes a huge difference in sound if you can tune it right to the pitch of your shells.
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  #172  
Old 12-12-2012, 05:09 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

PDP ace mod 6.5 x 14
I got one of these cheap off E-bay and decided the hoops and throw are not to my liking. So I got some Gibraltar 2.3mm hoops and a DW mag throw, I also added some nylon washers to the tension rods and greased them. The mag throw fits in the same holes as the stock throw but you do need to drill them out a little to accommodate the larger bolts. I put grosgrain ribbon and some Puresound blasters, An Aquarian clear reso and Hi-energy and now it is an awesome snare.

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  #173  
Old 01-23-2013, 06:13 PM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Any of y'all dealt a PDP X7 (8,10,12,14,16,22,14x5)? Any tips on what I can do to really make those guys sing? I still have the original kit snare as well... It sucks, but I don't have the dough for a completely new snare! I play a lot of modern jazz, funk, folk, alt rock. And some Latin and hip hop and even the occasional metal groove? When I do play live it's really small venues. Like bars and clubs.
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  #174  
Old 02-18-2013, 02:12 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Interior drum mic's for my "new to me" PDP CX maple kit.

Just bent a piece of 1" flat bar (steel) and drilled the holes to match the pattern of my PDP drums. Mounted my CAD mic. Next step, mount the XLR M connector to the shell



Also taking the silver sparkle wrap of, and going to order something from Bum Wrap Drum Co... Details to follow.
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  #175  
Old 03-24-2013, 05:39 PM
T.Blazer T.Blazer is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

I need some advise, I have stripped the black wrap off the cheap old floor tom that I have been using with my PDP kit, which is red stained birch with a matte Finnish. I had the local Colombia paint store match up some stain, but now I need to protect it. Is poly ok or should I go with lacquer ? and reasoning behind either.
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  #176  
Old 04-28-2013, 12:21 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Does anyone know if you can strip powder coated hardware? Or is it possible to re-paint powder coated hardware a different color? I want to switch my lugs and tension rods from powder coated silver to brass or even gold powder coated if possible.

A guy at my local shop said there is pretty much nothing you can do to powder coated hardware, but I'm not 100% sure he wasn't just trying to sell hardware parts to me.
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  #177  
Old 06-16-2013, 02:37 PM
BRdrummer BRdrummer is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

I have a Hayman kit for something like 6 years and its pretty cheap. It had a black finish and I wanted something new but i had not enough money for a better kit, so i painted it and I like the result! http://s1280.photobucket.com/user/To...22a4e.jpg.html
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  #178  
Old 07-02-2013, 03:42 AM
bstan bstan is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

I found this 1970's Supraphonic at a local 2nd hand music store, Music Go Round, for a low price and buffed it up, replaced the heads and snare wires, and restored it to near mint condition.
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  #179  
Old 07-02-2013, 03:45 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

and here is the result of a staining project. A 13x7" OCDP I purchased from that same 2nd hand store Music Go Round
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  #180  
Old 07-02-2013, 05:14 PM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Here's a little mod I made to my RIMS mounts. I always liked the mounts, but hated the big square plates. After using the hardware off a DW piccolo tom, to build my Blaemire timbale, I discovered the little "fish" plate DW uses for mounting them. I contacted DW and bought some of the fish plates. I then drilled some new holes on the RIMS mounts, and mounted them, using DW mounts with them. I love how they have a slimmer look to them.
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  #181  
Old 07-10-2013, 05:43 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BRdrummer View Post
I have a Hayman kit for something like 6 years and its pretty cheap. It had a black finish and I wanted something new but i had not enough money for a better kit, so i painted it and I like the result!

Cheap or not - she's looking good! Now, get those bearing edges redone and hear that kit sing!
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  #182  
Old 07-10-2013, 06:15 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

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Originally Posted by throughthecities View Post
Oh, and what works best for cleaning up old, rust-spotted hoops, lugs, etc? Anyone have any suggestions?

It depends. How old and how badly rusted? If the rust is extensive, just look into buying new hardware. The online dealers like Precision, Drum Foundry, DrumMaker, All Star, American Music Drumparts, etc have TONS of options available online and almost certainly make lugs, brackets and hoops which would be ideal for your project.

However, if the rust is mild and the chrome is not too severely pitted, you can always try to remove it and restore the shine. For rust removal, start with fine steel wool and/or aluminum foil. If that isn't effective, you could combine steel wool with a rust removal product. Lots of people find that Brasso polish works well in that regard. Others have recommended Metal Rescue, which is a soaking bath - you leave the chrome in it overnight. If that gets the rust off, then your can wash it and then soak it overnight in denatured alcohol to restore some of the shine.

Either way, you gotta post pictures when you're done. :)
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  #183  
Old 07-10-2013, 03:22 PM
tamadrm tamadrm is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Never....repeat never use steel wool to remove rust.Aluminum foil and coke work so much better and won't scratch like steel wool does.Commercial rust remover work well also.

Work slowly and you'll be rewarded with nice shiny chrome,and not dull scratched pieces of junk.

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  #184  
Old 07-10-2013, 04:58 PM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

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Originally Posted by tamadrm View Post
Never....repeat never use steel wool to remove rust.Aluminum foil and coke work so much better and won't scratch like steel wool does.Commercial rust remover work well also.

Work slowly and you'll be rewarded with nice shiny chrome,and not dull scratched pieces of junk.

Steve B
Never knew that Steve..............I've always used real fine steel wool and never scratched chrome, but was always careful. I'm going to have to try the aluminum foil and coke.

Here's a couple of my acros.............one modified with Trick hardware, had to drill for the throw. The other is my "Camolite" that was duracoated in a camo pattern.......just sold it two weeks ago. I love acros




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  #185  
Old 07-12-2013, 06:50 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

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Originally Posted by tamadrm View Post
Never....repeat never use steel wool to remove rust.

Sorry Steve, but you are wrong.

http://tinyurl.com/lt5y3g5

Please pay special attention around 2:00 where he says "the chrome is actually stronger than the steel wool so it's not gonna scratch". And this guy used SOS pads, which I would not do personally. Note that I said FINE steel wool. Nothing too heavy or abrasive. That plus a bath in Metal Rescue should do the trick. If the rust is any heavier than that, then he needs to simply replace the hardware.

I also wanted to emphasize what the guy in the vid said...where pitting of the metal has taken place the rust will return, However, the same folks who make Metal Rescue also make a product called Dry Coat which applies a clear coat to the metal and inhibits the return of rust. With reasonable care, it is possible to keep rust away for years.

Of course, my first preference would be to simply replace the hardware. But he may not want to spend that much money and depending on the degree of rust he may not have to.

Last edited by Drumz; 07-12-2013 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:07 AM
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  #186  
Old 07-12-2013, 07:09 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

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Here's a couple of my acros...one modified with Trick hardware, had to drill for the throw...I love acros.

Very nice job on the modded Acro. Are the lugs Trick? Looks really good.

I love Acros too. Have you heard either the DDrum Vintone or the Pearl Sensitone? Both are attempts to replicate the Acrosonic sound. I've heard (and played) the Vintone. VERY nice sounding - if a bit overpriced. If I can find one used, I'm gonna snap it up.
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  #187  
Old 07-12-2013, 01:50 PM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

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Originally Posted by bearblastbeats View Post
Last year I was going through my dad's shed and grabbed his old Luddy that he hasn't used in about a decade. This is a late 1970's Ludwig octa-plus he purchased new about 30+ years ago...snip.

Very nice job! I did a similar restoration on an old set of Super Classics. Actually, it's still a WIP. :-) But it's looking pretty good. And the great thing is, if you ever need to replace any of that hardware, Ludwig still makes direct replacements for most of it right here in good ole North Cacalacky.

Have you considered covering up that hole where the tom mount was? I used the hole and bought a Rocker style tom mount. But I've seen people do different things, One guys used a small piece of drum covering which was either a wood grain look or he painted it, I can't recall which. Looked better than a hole.
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  #188  
Old 07-14-2013, 04:00 AM
bstan bstan is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

yeah i personally would never use steel wool on chrome.

while its true that chrome is stronger than steel wool, its not the proper tool for the job. a little elbow grease will do the trick so much better with zero chance of scratches.

i use a product called blitz, metal care polish. use with a cloth or rag with some elbow grease. maybe after a soak in a 50/50 mix of water and white vinegar.

the finished product with the right tools, going slow, and putting a lot of effort and time into it will lead to a better finished product
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  #189  
Old 07-15-2013, 08:28 PM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

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Originally Posted by Drumz View Post
Very nice job on the modded Acro. Are the lugs Trick? Looks really good.

I love Acros too. Have you heard either the DDrum Vintone or the Pearl Sensitone? Both are attempts to replicate the Acrosonic sound. I've heard (and played) the Vintone. VERY nice sounding - if a bit overpriced. If I can find one used, I'm gonna snap it up.
Thanks, yes, all trick hardware that I picked up extremely cheap......................I almost bought an adapter for the throw, but to save some money, just decided to drill new holes. The adapter would have cost nearly as much as I had in the snare.

I haven't heard the ddrum, but have played several sensitone snares.....................they are also great sounding, reasonably priced snares, but I've always had a "thing" for Ludwig metal snares
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  #190  
Old 08-02-2013, 01:38 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

I posted this on another thread. I think it may be worth posting here


Quote:
Originally Posted by bosman View Post
After much thought and reading up here on the forum, I drilled my 16 Yamaha Oak Custom floor tom. Thought I would share some photos with you all.

Before Drilling


YESS mount removed. Notice cracks.



New Hardware


Installed




All done!

Last edited by bosman; 08-10-2013 at 08:13 PM. Reason: image enlarged suddenly
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  #191  
Old 08-05-2013, 07:50 PM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

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I posted this on another thread. I think it may be worth posting here
Good job. That round cushion which was under the YESS mount will peel right off if you want to remove it. Its just an adhesive backed pad.
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  #192  
Old 08-17-2013, 11:12 PM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

I'm gonna be refinishing my drum kit and had a quick couple questions.
After some unfortunate problems my kit lost what little value it had. I brought the wrong snare to a grindcore session, and busted a lug on the snare it came with, cause I was an idiot and cranked it to high, plus the wrap is bubbling on the kick.
When I took the kicks front head off to change the muffling to a felt strip, it was also peeling.
Its just a well loved ocdp venice that was a display kit at guitar center. But I love the tone and want to save it.

If the basswood looks good underneath the wrap I want to lacquer it, if not paint.

I have heard good and bad for staining basswood, I know it needs a sealer first, but I would like to know peoples opinions and experience first.

Also, a dark bronze or black krylon hammered paint looks like it would be cool, anyone have experience with that?

This thread looked like a good place to start. Thanks in advance!
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  #193  
Old 09-06-2013, 03:36 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Bought some old Sonor Sonic and Phonic shells off of Ebay:





Had them cut down, re-edged, wrapped and new vintage lugs put on:

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  #194  
Old 09-06-2013, 03:39 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

That is a great job to say the least. wow , what a difference. Props.
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  #195  
Old 09-06-2013, 06:49 AM
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Thanks! I am waiting on some heads (not sure what to use for the 18" bass drum) then I will post pics of it ready to go. For the Sonor faithful maybe they are rolling in their graves. I wanted a complete retro look. In their past Sonor has used Zephyr style lugs in the past and the Pearl ish bass drum legs. Anyway it is supposed to make me happy!
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  #196  
Old 10-12-2013, 11:37 PM
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Mikecore Mikecore is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

I did a chop job on a 12x14" PDP tom, turning it into a 10x14" rack tom.




When do the first phase of my PDP re-shells, I will be adding this size to the rack toms. I think a 14/16/18/24 Bonzo kit will be nice to pound on. They stand to be a vision of PDP drums that DW never got around to. As a hint of what's to come, any PDP specific parts that can be replaced by DW parts will be changed out, such as tom brackets.
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  #197  
Old 11-10-2013, 01:53 PM
tamadrm tamadrm is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drumz View Post
Sorry Steve, but you are wrong.

http://tinyurl.com/lt5y3g5

Please pay special attention around 2:00 where he says "the chrome is actually stronger than the steel wool so it's not gonna scratch". And this guy used SOS pads, which I would not do personally. Note that I said FINE steel wool. Nothing too heavy or abrasive. That plus a bath in Metal Rescue should do the trick. If the rust is any heavier than that, then he needs to simply replace the hardware.

I also wanted to emphasize what the guy in the vid said...where pitting of the metal has taken place the rust will return, However, the same folks who make Metal Rescue also make a product called Dry Coat which applies a clear coat to the metal and inhibits the return of rust. With reasonable care, it is possible to keep rust away for years.

Of course, my first preference would be to simply replace the hardware. But he may not want to spend that much money and depending on the degree of rust he may not have to.
Well what this "expert" says,goes contrary to what EVERY other expert on the subject says.Recognized experts and published authors like John Aldridge,Rob Cook,Chet Fazzerano,Mike Curotto,Rick Van Horn,Ron Spagnardi,Harry Cangany and many others who are recognized in their field,say something completey different than Marty.

I used to use OOOO steel wool(which is the finest you can but) many years ago,and I now find lots of fine scratches in my vintage chrome hardware.

So no,I'm NOT wrong.So if you want to follow this guys advice,you go right ahead,but don't tell others to do the same as you and he say,and stick with conventional....PROVEN expert wisdom on the subject.But if you want to follow "Marty of shamrock scooters advice,knock yourself out.

SOS pads???? BTW..I don't see a whole lot of drums being restored ,by some guy working in his garage.Next time...do some research first on the subject of "DRUM RESTORATION AND MAINTENENCE", not how to clean your scooter

STAY AWAY FROM STEEL WOOL....PERIOD..

Steve B

Last edited by tamadrm; 11-11-2013 at 04:11 PM.
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  #198  
Old 11-11-2013, 03:56 PM
tamadrm tamadrm is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drumz View Post
Very nice job! I did a similar restoration on an old set of Super Classics. Actually, it's still a WIP. :-) But it's looking pretty good. And the great thing is, if you ever need to replace any of that hardware, Ludwig still makes direct replacements for most of it right here in good ole North Cacalacky.

Have you considered covering up that hole where the tom mount was? I used the hole and bought a Rocker style tom mount. But I've seen people do different things, One guys used a small piece of drum covering which was either a wood grain look or he painted it, I can't recall which. Looked better than a hole.
All of Ludwigs hardware,as well as DW Gretsch and everybody else is imported,and no longer US made.

Steve B.
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  #199  
Old 01-10-2014, 07:53 PM
leer1649 leer1649 is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Hey,
I will also post this on a post of its own incase it gets buried.
but to make a long story short. im redoin my kit. The whole thing. I will update my progress as it goes but This is my first time actually doing anything like this.
Heres what I have planned.
  • Complete respray of the drums (mabye the hoops havent decided) plain white with green splatters on it.
  • Reskin all drums with some new heads I plan on purchasing for my birthday
  • New crash cymbal (my current meinl hcs is at a laughable state of destroyed beyond repair)
  • To mount a single tom by the cymbal stand
and since I am a newbie at this and a teen at that I have a budget of roughly 200 to get all the paint mounts and everything. mabye 250 if I push it.
So I have a few questions.
1)How the hell do I do this?
2)How will i mount a tom if my mount has no passthrough for the tom mount (pics below)
3)What paint do I need to use?Will spray paint do? And what should I do if i accidentaly rip some of the wood off while taking of the wrap on the shells? will wood filler do?

I know im asking alot but If anyone can help me it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
-lee
(any suggestions also for equipment I should buy. I play punk rock if that matters I dont think it does that much though)
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  #200  
Old 02-22-2014, 07:06 PM
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The SunDog The SunDog is offline
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Default Re: THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Unless your hardware is really, really ugly i would advise against painting it.The drums too. What finish is on the set currently? A new wrap will give you the best results and the most choices. Removing an old wrap is pretty easy or if your set has a lacquer finish a new wrap can be applied directly to it. Paint (unless you're a pro with equipment and a shop) is going to make the drums into a Frankenstein of sorts. Or is that what your going for?
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