The Drum Modification Thread

The Renown line's shells are finished with silver sealer ( a Gretsch thing that improves the sound through resonance and sealing the pores of the wood). Other than that, the Catalina series lacks - A. Finished interiors on the shells and B. good heads. Heres what I did. I dis- assembled all the drums and sanded the interiors with 300 grit paper so that they were baby skin smooth. Then I sealed the interiors with Teak oil, applying several coats until the interiors were sealed and had a nice low sheen. The sealer, although not the silver paint ,that Gretsch uses on the Renown line, accomplished the same thing. That being, smooth sealed resonant interiors, that improve the sound. I then added Evans G2 over G1'heads and tuned them up.

I like the idea of sealing the interior with sealer or Teak Oil, what difference did you find in the sound, lower? warmer ?
 
I've been involved for the last couple of months in piecing together my dream kit with used Yamaha Recording Custom drums. Reasons are 1) cost of new vs used and 2) I prefer the older drums of the RC line. I decided I would buy the exact sizes I wanted, regardless of color, and refinish as needed. I'd be going for a black look, thinking that I could re-lacquer odd colors to black. I did research before I started buying drums, and I thought I could pull it off.

It worked. I lucked in to finding most of the drums in black, and had to refinish 3 drums out of 9 that I bought: 8, 10 and 12" toms. The 12 was gray, the 10 red and the 8 white. I won't elaborate on the process, unless someone is really interested. If so, just post a reply and I'll give more details. For now, I'll just say that I carefully used a hi-gloss black lacquer paint in spray cans. Don't try this unless you have a very well ventilated area, like a garage, etc. The fumes of this paint are potent. And the air temperature needs to be reasonably warm for the paint to set-up properly.

You can see the results. Not bad for a first timer. I don't have a photo of the 12" tom before I started, so you see just the 10" and 8" before and after, and the 12" after in both shots.
 

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refinishing high-end drums (not a wrap)

I play a fairly high-end set of Yamaha Birch Custom Absoutes and just added a Maple Custom Absolute bass drum. The set is vintage natural matte-finish, but the BD is gloss - so it doesn't match. I'm thinking about stripping off the gloss and adding a light stain. What else do I need to do?

My worry is about the stripping agent leaking into the shell and compromising the sound. I also know zero about sealing the shells, if that's necessary, or how to protect the bearing edges.

Does anyone have experience refinishing higher quality drums?

Many thanks!
Psycho
 
Use painters tape and seal the edges and holes. This is the 8" tom in my pictures below, after taping and applying primer.

Its always a great idea to try a test case before tackling the real drum you want to work on. If you can find a beat-up lacquered drum to test out your ideas, you'll have some experience before you start in on the kick drum.
 

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Did you put tape over the badge? And, did the finish end up rough around the badge?

My set has the matte finish; can you point me in the right direction for a matte lacquer?

Thanks,
Mike
 
Did you put tape over the badge? And, did the finish end up rough around the badge?

My set has the matte finish; can you point me in the right direction for a matte lacquer?

Thanks,
Mike

I could write a book on this topic, so its a bit tough to give you all of the details, here. You have 2 major issues: 1) How to remove the current finish 2) How to apply the new finish.

Removal: Even if you attempt to use paint stripper, you're going to need to sand the shell after, to make sure you have it down to bare wood and any residue from the stipper is gone. Wipe the whole thing down with a wet rag after you sand. Use finer grades of sandpaper as you go. The other option is to sand from the beginning and not use stripper. You would need to use a heavier sand paper to start with to get the lacquer off. However, you need to be real careful with sanding to keep everything nice and smooth. Stay away from the bearing edges.

Yes, I put tape over the badge and carefully removed it once the lacquer was fully dried. I took a sharp pocket knife and carefully scored (ran it around) the edges of the badge, to make sure the tape would pull off from the new lacquer. If you do this too soon, you can pull the paint off with it.

However, in your case, it sounds like your kit is stained, not a lacquer like the kick drum. Lacquer is a high gloss paint, not a satin stain. The new kick could also have clear lacquer over stain. Why don't you post some photos? So, once you have it down to the bare shell, you're going to be staining, not re-lacquering as I did. Correct? Staining should be easier than painting. The trick will be to try and match the color and hue of the stain.

I'm sure you can find tips on the web about staining drums or wood in general. If the drums match, except the new new kick is glossy and the other drums are satin, the other option is to just leave it the way it is and avoid all of this. Posting some photos would help.
 
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Virgin Bass Drum Conversion?

Hey!
I'm thinking about painting my shells on a project (yes, its cheap...and currently has a wrap) kit. Buddy owns a paint shop so I just have to buy the paint and have the tools ;)

My big question is, while I'm doing this I'm thinking about making my bass's (is that right?) virgins, but does anyone know what's best to fill in the holes, or something of the sort?

Also, any confirmed finishes to make the paint glossy? Just an auto paint gloss?

Thanks!
 
Re: Virgin Bass Drum Conversion?

Hey!
I'm thinking about painting my shells on a project (yes, its cheap...and currently has a wrap) kit. Buddy owns a paint shop so I just have to buy the paint and have the tools ;)
+
My big question is, while I'm doing this I'm thinking about making my bass's (is that right?) virgins, but does anyone know what's best to fill in the holes, or something of the sort?

Also, any confirmed finishes to make the paint glossy? Just an auto paint gloss?

Thanks!

If your buddy owns a paint shop, he can probably adivse you. The challenges I see:

I assume you are removing the wrap. You don't know what kind of can of worms that will open up. If the wrap is fully glued, that will be a job. If its only spot glued, you're in better shape. Remove the wrap carefully. You want to avoid chippng the shells. I would fill in small holes with wood filler. You most likely will need to sand the shells prior to painting, after you've filled in imperfections. Use gradually finer grades of sandpaper.

Your buddy will probably recommend using a couple of coates of primer as a base. I believe you could use any automotive lacquer paint to get a glossy finish. He probably has some metallic paints that would look very nice on a kit. You can also have a coat of clear applied as a final coat, for higher gloss.

As far as making your bass drum a virgin, the holes that would be created by removing a tom mount could be pretty large. You'd probably not want to fill that in with wood filler. If you could have someone fabricate a plate for you to mount in place of the tom mount, that might be the thing to do. Here's a thread on the topic of plates for Yamaha kick drums:

http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45718&highlight=like+a+virgin

Finally, if you go forward with this, post some before and after pics.

Good luck!
 
Chrome Blemmishes.

I have 3 mis-matched pieces that I'm going to wrap. But 2 of the pieces have chrome that has not been well cared for. Other than paying the small fortune chrome shops want, is there an effective technique to use on the pits and blemishes?

Many thanks!

Mike (Psycho)
 
I did know a little about the painting, I've worked with him in the past. My main deal was dealing with the giant tom arm holes. I saw that thread for the plates, which kicked some major arse, but the guy went belly up... Hence me being here.

Chrome Blemmishes.

I have 3 mis-matched pieces that I'm going to wrap. But 2 of the pieces have chrome that has not been well cared for. Other than paying the small fortune chrome shops want, is there an effective technique to use on the pits and blemishes?

Many thanks!

Mike (Psycho)

What chrome pieces? Hoops, bolts, etc can all be replaced for pretty darn cheap if that's the case.
 
What chrome pieces? Hoops, bolts, etc can all be replaced for pretty darn cheap if that's the case.[/QUOTE]

Hoops and llugs. Can you point me to a good source for replacing them? Thanks!
 
I did know a little about the painting, I've worked with him in the past. My main deal was dealing with the giant tom arm holes. I saw that thread for the plates, which kicked some major arse, but the guy went belly up... Hence me being here.

I get the feeling he can still make the plates. It sounds like he just can't get anything printed on them, like he was with the Yamaha logos. Why don't you contact him? Filling in large holes is going to be a headache. I believe his user ID is SoCalMike. I've purchased a couple of things from him.
 
What chrome pieces? Hoops, bolts, etc can all be replaced for pretty darn cheap if that's the case.

Hoops and llugs. Can you point me to a good source for replacing them? Thanks![/quote]

A start would be Ebay? I've seen a ton of parts go for cheap there. If that's inconvenient there is www.drummaker.com. They have a HUGE selection of pretty much everything.

And I'll send SoCalMike a message, solid plates would be fine.
 
I built a piccolo snare using parts from www.amdrumparts.com. It is on the right.
The drum on the left was a light stained maple snare that I am making part of a Bumble Bee Bop kit. I sanded enough to get the clear down to a dull finish and then used spray paint. I used fine line painters tape to put on the black and then the yellow stripes. I may still clear it. Not sure yet.
 

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That bumble-bee finish looks great, GD. Post pics when you finish the kit. Just love yellow drums, so this finish is very cool.

I built a piccolo snare using parts from www.amdrumparts.com. It is on the right.
The drum on the left was a light stained maple snare that I am making part of a Bumble Bee Bop kit. I sanded enough to get the clear down to a dull finish and then used spray paint. I used fine line painters tape to put on the black and then the yellow stripes. I may still clear it. Not sure yet.
 
I built a piccolo snare using parts from www.amdrumparts.com. It is on the right.
The drum on the left was a light stained maple snare that I am making part of a Bumble Bee Bop kit. I sanded enough to get the clear down to a dull finish and then used spray paint. I used fine line painters tape to put on the black and then the yellow stripes. I may still clear it. Not sure yet.

Nice job. Doing it yourself and having it work out, is the best feeling. Great name too: Bumble Bee Bop!
 
This wasn't so much a modification as a refinishing project. I started buying individual Sonor Force 2001 pieces over a period of a year to make a "throw in the car" practice kit. Ended up with four pieces: two in cherry, one in natural, and one in black finish. Stripped them down and repainted them to match. Did a blue "flick" job over white and then shot it with about five coats of clear coat. Has a look between glass and satin. I ended up playing this kit more than I thought and after three years the paint job has endured pretty well. Only one chip and that was from a pretty good hit from slapping the bass drum with my bass pedal while breaking it down.
 

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This is my refinish project. I have a 7 piece Ludwig Accent CS (entry level) but I like them and decided to refinish them in mahogany tones. I used Cabot Brown Mahogany followed by a 2nd lighter coat of Minwax Bombay Mahogany. 2 coats of polyeurothane and I think that should suffice. I wanted a rough natural look, but not so rough that it looked sloppy.
My goal was to make the kit look as though somebody had made it out of wall paneling.

I removed the piano black wrap which thankfully was only glued at the seams. I then used "goof Off" to remove the glue, and sanded the shells with 220 grit sandpaper.

I was able to create a "virgin" bass drum by adding mesh tape to the inside of the bass drum where the tom mount holes were drilled. I then filled it all in with wood putty and sanded that down.

After that, I applied the 1st coat of the cabot stain, let it dry, and lightly spot sanded it to reduce the depth of color in some areas while leaving the stain alone in other areas.
I then applied the 2nd coat of minwax bombay mahogany and then 2 coats of poly. I also added new grommets to all the toms and the snare. The bass head grommet actually stayed intact enough to reuse. The pics below show the process as well as the before and after pics.
 

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I've been involved for the last couple of months in piecing together my dream kit with used Yamaha Recording Custom drums. Reasons are 1) cost of new vs used and 2) I prefer the older drums of the RC line. I decided I would buy the exact sizes I wanted, regardless of color, and refinish as needed. I'd be going for a black look, thinking that I could re-lacquer odd colors to black. I did research before I started buying drums, and I thought I could pull it off.

It worked. I lucked in to finding most of the drums in black, and had to refinish 3 drums out of 9 that I bought: 8, 10 and 12" toms. The 12 was gray, the 10 red and the 8 white. I won't elaborate on the process, unless someone is really interested. If so, just post a reply and I'll give more details. For now, I'll just say that I carefully used a hi-gloss black lacquer paint in spray cans. Don't try this unless you have a very well ventilated area, like a garage, etc. The fumes of this paint are potent. And the air temperature needs to be reasonably warm for the paint to set-up properly.

You can see the results. Not bad for a first timer. I don't have a photo of the 12" tom before I started, so you see just the 10" and 8" before and after, and the 12" after in both shots.

first off, very nice kit dude, and i have a question. is the shell of your snare copper???
 
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