High End Hat Stands....Godsend or Gimmick?

I was just looking at new HH stands this week. I bought a Shell pack and need hardware. Since I bought a Ludwig kit I first looked at Ludwig HH stand about $89. Then The sales person showed me a Pearl with a double chain drive and cams I think. It may have been the 1000 series HK. It was sooo smooth, much quicker action than the Ludwig. It's marked down price was $179.00. I don't have that kind of money right now, but if money was not an object I'd be buying that one just one the feel. Then there were several in between from $129 on up. Besides smoother lighter action on the more expensive Stands you could see a heavier duty more thought out clutch. Instead of just rubber feet, there was the option of spikes. So there is a difference IMHO. I'm in the market right now so I'm struggling with how much to invest. Before this week I knew no better and pretty much thought all HH stands except for the ultra cheapies were basically equal. One final thought, there was a thread about remote HH setups. I don't see that as a gimmick. I think being able to put the HH where it is most convenient for you, and does not interfere with cross sticking makes a lot of sense. I've never tried one, but from what I read in the thread it could be an AHA moment. Spiney
 
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I haven't yet bought a "professional" hihat stand, I'm still using the Premier one that came with my Cabrias. I've done a bit of research on which model would be best suited to me and, I have to say, I didn't get very far.

Honestly, the feature that I caught myself looking for first was the option of 3 legs, 2 legs, no legs or remote, regardless of whether I actually needed any of these more exotic options. Turns out I don't, a fact which was hammered into me through buyer's remorse after picking up a Pearl remote hihat stand (oh, I guess I do own a professional one; still only use the Premier though).

I'm also amazed at just how much it matters to me that my hihat and kick pedal match. I don't play a double pedal, so It wouldn't make any difference playing wise; but somehow having those two footboards the same when I upgrade is, shamefully, one of my top priorities.

As for all of the adjustments that actually have the potential to make a difference to your playing (cam options, tension, whathaveyou); they've barely been given a second look. My Premier has 0 options for adjustment; and it works just fine for now.
 
If you have the money for it then get one. I really like my Axis stand, to me, its the best hi-hat stand ever. It has very quick response, super light yet durable, heel splashes take no effort on the longboard, the legs are removable, & it just feels right.

On the other end of the spectrum you have stuff like the Iron Cobra stand. which is pretty heavy, but the strap driven ones are awesome. DW's good too although most are very heavy. There are a lot of very nice HH stands out there. I guess its not for everyone but if you can afford nice gear, why not?

You don't have to have a great hi-hat stand to play music, a cheap one will make it happen. However, as much time as we all spend playing being able to set things to personal preference if nice. I am gonna have to lean towards godsend....maybe that a little strong but I high end gear that is customizable.
 
If you view the left foot as being as important as the right foot, all the options and variations start to make a little more sense.

People seem to fuss most over their left foot when it's on a bass drum pedal; double pedals are the single most-discussed topic in gear, technique and in general here. When it comes to the left foot in any other capacity, however, it doesn't seem to exist.

I have my left foot working four pedals, none of them attached to a bass drum beater.
 
When I use my Axis longboard HH stand with my e-kit I think..."wow, this thing is so nice to play on... and the footplate matches the KD pedal perfectly - can even play HH and KD2 at the same time because the footplate shapes fit together so well"

When I use my Gibraltar 5000 series on my a-kit I think "wow, this thing feels good and it is so much cheaper than the Axis"

The high end is my preferred choice, but it's not a big margin.
 
I went from a crappy no-name to my Iron Cobra hat stand. Day and night, so far as I'm concerned.

The DW9500 is great too. I haven't messed with the settings much though.

If I had to buy something new, I sure wouldn't go cheap. It's easy to say "I don't need that feature" then come back later and realize "Man, I wish I could adjust that there dohickey."

To me, functionality is worth the extra dough.
 
Ok all......I'm gonna bump this once, and once only...then I'll let it die a slow and withering death.

..... Harry? .....your thoughts.

Geez, I'm honored someone wants to hear from me. thanx.
I currently own 4 hi-hat stand/unit/things. Yeah, down to 4.​
If I want a traditional 3 legged stand, I have a Yamaha (Steve Gadd era) single braced stand. What would be the 700 series, now. Works flawlessly. No bells, no whistles. Simple.​
Though I never use it anymore, I have a Tama legless (80's vintage). Back it the day of the twin-kicks, this hi-hat stand ruled supreme. I probably should sell it.​
My main hi-hat (stand?) now is my Yamaha remote cable. This one, another keeper, for sure. It gets into places that normal stands can't. Like behind my snare (12 'o clock).​
Lastly, I have an Aux. hi-hat thingy. From back in the day when I ran two sets of hats. No open/close. It simply is. I probably should sell it too.​
And yes, to some degree, the manufactures market features I think are unnessary. Just like cars, and motorcycles, stereo's, etc. But they need to sell gear, and to stay in competition with everyone else, they need to play the game. And if the game means "infinite adjustability", so be it.​
For me, it's all about "how does it feel". If it feels good......then I take it home.​
 
Geez, I'm honored someone wants to hear from me. thanx.
I]My main hi-hat (stand?) now is my Yamaha remote cable. This one, another keeper, for sure. It gets into places that normal stands can't. Like behind my snare (12 'o clock).​

I've been playing off and on for 40 years, but very new to setting up my drums other than the "Normal" way. The idea of a HH stand behind the snare intrigues me. Since I don't have a remote to play with can you tell me the plus's and any drawbacks of having your HH there?
Does it take getting used to? As I read these boards and look at videos I'm all about efficiency. Having had 4 back surgeries the more efficient I can be in my movements around the kit the better for pain and stamina. I just recently went from 5 piece to 4 and found freedom in losing a rack tom. So now I got some space to play with. Thanks, Spiney

BTW for me the most efficient kit I ever played was a Drumkat. A whole kit in about 2 sq Feet.
 
Honestly i'm not that picky when it comes to hat stands. I'm currently useing a PDP stand and it does the job just fine without all the different cams, etc.... As long as the top hat moves when i raise my foot off the pedal that's all i'm concerned with.

My vote goes for...Gimmick.
 
FWIW, the Axis hihat stands feel almost identical to their pedals. If you are one to enjoy the feel of an Axis pedal, you will find some really great feel with the hihat stands too.

They do have a pronounced disadvantage though. The legs are light and springy, which means they don't feel as stable as a heavier built stand like an IC or DW.

Its been a trade off for me, as it plays so smooth and quickly and foot splashes on the hats are super easy and the transition from BD pedal to hihat pedal is effortless and comfortable. I just wish the thing was more solidly built so it feels more stable to play.

If it was built a bit more heavily in the legs, it would be the perfect hat stand...but I am not willing to trade it out because it feels so perfect to play.
 
Geez, I'm honored someone wants to hear from me. thanx.

And if the game means "infinite adjustability", so be it. For me, it's all about "how does it feel". If it feels good......then I take it home.

You are so often, a fountain of useful information, H. I always sit up and pay attention when the likes of your-good-self are posting on gear.

The name of the game indeed does seem to be "infinite adjustability". My thoughts echo your own on "feel".....I was just quite intrigued as to how much feel one actually requires out of a hat stand. I was under the impression that if you put your foot down, the hats went "chink" and that was all that is required. I certainly get the merits of remote stands....their purpose is evident. It's the other "extras" that have sparked my interest. The last time I was in the market for one, rolling glides, cams and adjustable footboards didn't appear to be options. It's all new to me, mate.


It's easy to say "I don't need that feature" then come back later and realize "Man, I wish I could adjust that there dohickey."

To me, functionality is worth the extra dough.

Thanks Ekim, I was hoping to hear from a few posters who own the higher end stuff. Now if I may ask, just what are the type of adjustable features that you find handy and what adjustments have you made to your stand that tailors it to your personal style and sets it apart from the run of the mill variety?
 
Honestly i'm not that picky when it comes to hat stands. I'm currently useing a PDP stand and it does the job just fine without all the different cams, etc.... As long as the top hat moves when i raise my foot off the pedal that's all i'm concerned with.

My vote goes for...Gimmick.

Nor have I been Biscuit, in fact I'm still playing an old Export series stand from circa 1990....it's now time for a change though and when I went to check them out I was totally amazed at the engineering that goes into some of the current high end models.......hence this thread.

and the transition from BD pedal to hihat pedal is effortless and comfortable

This is one point that has seemed to come up on a few occasions. I think it pretty much helps explain the need for footboard angle adjustment. I'm still yet to see anyone explain why the red cam is better on a hat stand than the blue...or why a rolling glide or pulley system should render the old style direct pull obsolete.

Interesting stuff.

Thanks for chiming in men.
 
Nor have I been Biscuit, in fact I'm still playing an old Export series stand from circa 1990....it's now time for a change though and when I went to check them out I was totally amazed at the engineering that goes into some of the current high end models.......hence this thread.

I totally agree. It is amazeing what they are comeing out with now a days. When my current stand eventually dies i'll upgrade to a better Pearl stand or something. There is no telling what they will have come out with by then. With all the options they have now what else could they possibly do to make them better! haha Happy hunting PFOG, hope you score something you like!
 
The idea of a HH stand behind the snare intrigues me. Since I don't have a remote to play with can you tell me the plus's and any drawbacks of having your HH there?
Check out Bill Brufords later drum kits here. http://www.billbruford.com/equipment/index.html He was the master drummer that planted the seed of drum set symmetry. With the hat behind the snare, you're always playing open handed. My ride cymbal, just to the right of the hats. Same thing. I'm running a 5 piece 26, 13, 16, 18, snare. No rack tom. My 13 is just right of my right leg, the 16 floor, right next door. No more 3 foot gap between the 13 and the 16. More like 1 inch. My 18" floor tom just left of my left leg.
Does it take getting used to?
I've had quite a few cats sit behind my kit and basically take to it like a fish takes to water.
As I read these boards and look at videos I'm all about efficiency. Having had 4 back surgeries the more efficient I can be in my movements around the kit the better for pain and stamina.
I have a bad hip, two bad knees, and a bad ankle. On good days, I walk with a cane. On bad days, I don't walk. (no, not so much). I just stay home and play the drums. I can sympathize.
BTW for me the most efficient kit I ever played was a Drumkat. A whole kit in about 2 sq Feet.
I've played those before, yes, indeed. Personally, I own a Roland SPD-S. 13.5x11.5 inches.
 

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Hello! New guy here.

I vote for "gimmick", and unfortunately I fell for it!

Just purchased a new DW 9000 bass drum pedal along with the DW9500 three-legged hi-hat stand, and what did I get? An added 30 lbs to my trap case.

To add insult to injury, I knew this going in, thinking I'll eventually fall in love with my $600 investment. My thinking has always been that my stuff won't get broken while playing, it's when it gets moved around by others or set-up by others, so it needs to stand up on its own - and over the years this has been true for me. My stuff did move around alot and was set-up by alot of different people over the years.

But nowadays, not-so-much.

And to think the lesson that taught me that, yes, this was all a gimmick was when I got to see Steve Gadd do a clinic in Hollywood years ago. He played an old Gretsch Floating Action pedal that was modified with a gear and chain, and what looked like an early Yamaha 7-series hat, that he literally was stomping on!

Note to self....
 
This is one point that has seemed to come up on a few occasions. I think it pretty much helps explain the need for footboard angle adjustment. I'm still yet to see anyone explain why the red cam is better on a hat stand than the blue...or why a rolling glide or pulley system should render the old style direct pull obsolete.
.

The cam system allows you to have a different distance that your foot moves relative to the distance the top cymbal moves. For example, you could move your pedal 2 inches down with your foot and have the cymbal only move 1". That would be useful in replicating the bass drum feel with your foot, but maintaining a smaller gap in the cymbals up top.
 
If you view the left foot as being as important as the right foot, all the options and variations start to make a little more sense.

Agree with you on this one completely :)

In jazz is the single piece of equipment on a kit not the hats?? :)
So would it not make sense to have the one that you are most comfortable with?

This may mean having the ultimate configuration. In which the low end gear might not have the customization options and so you may need high end gear :)

George.
 
The cam system allows you to have a different distance that your foot moves relative to the distance the top cymbal moves. For example, you could move your pedal 2 inches down with your foot and have the cymbal only move 1". That would be useful in replicating the bass drum feel with your foot, but maintaining a smaller gap in the cymbals up top.

Now we're getting somewhere. Never thought of that and I'm still not convinced it's an absolute neccessity, but it's the best explaination I've seen yet for the need for cams etc.

Worth the money? The jury is still well and truely out, but this is exactly the type of answer I've been searching for. Thx Crazy.
 
The idea of a HH stand behind the snare intrigues me. Since I don't have a remote to play with can you tell me the plus's and any drawbacks of having your HH there?
Does it take getting used to?




You can give it a shot, put your closed legged stand in front of your snare, you won't be able to foot it, but you'll get the feeling of the hands/arms.

I played the hats at 12 O:Clock for about 6 months, then gave it up.

Its a boxing motion, whereas the 9-10:00 position is a left to right swing, much easier to flow with. Boxing throws force you to move your upper arms, while side to side motions can be pulled-off just by twisting your wrists, or by moving your forearms without extending your (heavy) upper arms. Most of your playing time is between the HH and the snare usually.

I realized 99% of the time its a shorter distance my arms had to travel with the hat at the 9-10:00 position as your hands can stay pretty much on the same horizontal plane, crossing sticks is not a problem for me.

Another drag is the 12:00 HH position cuts your kit in half If you set up like Bruford. You need to get over the HH to get to either side, you have to shift your horizontal plane, descending tom rolls are next to impossible.
 
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