The Drum Modification Thread

Oh, and what works best for cleaning up old, rust-spotted hoops, lugs, etc? Anyone have any suggestions?


It depends. How old and how badly rusted? If the rust is extensive, just look into buying new hardware. The online dealers like Precision, Drum Foundry, DrumMaker, All Star, American Music Drumparts, etc have TONS of options available online and almost certainly make lugs, brackets and hoops which would be ideal for your project.

However, if the rust is mild and the chrome is not too severely pitted, you can always try to remove it and restore the shine. For rust removal, start with fine steel wool and/or aluminum foil. If that isn't effective, you could combine steel wool with a rust removal product. Lots of people find that Brasso polish works well in that regard. Others have recommended Metal Rescue, which is a soaking bath - you leave the chrome in it overnight. If that gets the rust off, then your can wash it and then soak it overnight in denatured alcohol to restore some of the shine.

Either way, you gotta post pictures when you're done. :)
 
Never....repeat never use steel wool to remove rust.Aluminum foil and coke work so much better and won't scratch like steel wool does.Commercial rust remover work well also.

Work slowly and you'll be rewarded with nice shiny chrome,and not dull scratched pieces of junk.

Steve B
 
Never....repeat never use steel wool to remove rust.Aluminum foil and coke work so much better and won't scratch like steel wool does.Commercial rust remover work well also.

Work slowly and you'll be rewarded with nice shiny chrome,and not dull scratched pieces of junk.

Steve B

Never knew that Steve..............I've always used real fine steel wool and never scratched chrome, but was always careful. I'm going to have to try the aluminum foil and coke.

Here's a couple of my acros.............one modified with Trick hardware, had to drill for the throw. The other is my "Camolite" that was duracoated in a camo pattern.......just sold it two weeks ago. I love acros


ry%3D400


ry%3D400
 
Never....repeat never use steel wool to remove rust.


Sorry Steve, but you are wrong.

http://tinyurl.com/lt5y3g5

Please pay special attention around 2:00 where he says "the chrome is actually stronger than the steel wool so it's not gonna scratch". And this guy used SOS pads, which I would not do personally. Note that I said FINE steel wool. Nothing too heavy or abrasive. That plus a bath in Metal Rescue should do the trick. If the rust is any heavier than that, then he needs to simply replace the hardware.

I also wanted to emphasize what the guy in the vid said...where pitting of the metal has taken place the rust will return, However, the same folks who make Metal Rescue also make a product called Dry Coat which applies a clear coat to the metal and inhibits the return of rust. With reasonable care, it is possible to keep rust away for years.

Of course, my first preference would be to simply replace the hardware. But he may not want to spend that much money and depending on the degree of rust he may not have to.
 
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Here's a couple of my acros...one modified with Trick hardware, had to drill for the throw...I love acros.


Very nice job on the modded Acro. Are the lugs Trick? Looks really good.

I love Acros too. Have you heard either the DDrum Vintone or the Pearl Sensitone? Both are attempts to replicate the Acrosonic sound. I've heard (and played) the Vintone. VERY nice sounding - if a bit overpriced. If I can find one used, I'm gonna snap it up.
 
Last year I was going through my dad's shed and grabbed his old Luddy that he hasn't used in about a decade. This is a late 1970's Ludwig octa-plus he purchased new about 30+ years ago...snip.


Very nice job! I did a similar restoration on an old set of Super Classics. Actually, it's still a WIP. :) But it's looking pretty good. And the great thing is, if you ever need to replace any of that hardware, Ludwig still makes direct replacements for most of it right here in good ole North Cacalacky.

Have you considered covering up that hole where the tom mount was? I used the hole and bought a Rocker style tom mount. But I've seen people do different things, One guys used a small piece of drum covering which was either a wood grain look or he painted it, I can't recall which. Looked better than a hole.
 
yeah i personally would never use steel wool on chrome.

while its true that chrome is stronger than steel wool, its not the proper tool for the job. a little elbow grease will do the trick so much better with zero chance of scratches.

i use a product called blitz, metal care polish. use with a cloth or rag with some elbow grease. maybe after a soak in a 50/50 mix of water and white vinegar.

the finished product with the right tools, going slow, and putting a lot of effort and time into it will lead to a better finished product
 
Very nice job on the modded Acro. Are the lugs Trick? Looks really good.

I love Acros too. Have you heard either the DDrum Vintone or the Pearl Sensitone? Both are attempts to replicate the Acrosonic sound. I've heard (and played) the Vintone. VERY nice sounding - if a bit overpriced. If I can find one used, I'm gonna snap it up.

Thanks, yes, all trick hardware that I picked up extremely cheap......................I almost bought an adapter for the throw, but to save some money, just decided to drill new holes. The adapter would have cost nearly as much as I had in the snare.

I haven't heard the ddrum, but have played several sensitone snares.....................they are also great sounding, reasonably priced snares, but I've always had a "thing" for Ludwig metal snares
 
I posted this on another thread. I think it may be worth posting here


After much thought and reading up here on the forum, I drilled my 16 Yamaha Oak Custom floor tom. Thought I would share some photos with you all.

Before Drilling
fqxt.jpg


YESS mount removed. Notice cracks.
71f4.jpg

rquf.jpg


New Hardware
y0jq.jpg


Installed
gwd5.jpg

tvag.jpg

wlv5.jpg


All done!
2v2j.jpg
 
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I posted this on another thread. I think it may be worth posting here

Good job. That round cushion which was under the YESS mount will peel right off if you want to remove it. Its just an adhesive backed pad.
 
I'm gonna be refinishing my drum kit and had a quick couple questions.
After some unfortunate problems my kit lost what little value it had. I brought the wrong snare to a grindcore session, and busted a lug on the snare it came with, cause I was an idiot and cranked it to high, plus the wrap is bubbling on the kick.
When I took the kicks front head off to change the muffling to a felt strip, it was also peeling.
Its just a well loved ocdp venice that was a display kit at guitar center. But I love the tone and want to save it.

If the basswood looks good underneath the wrap I want to lacquer it, if not paint.

I have heard good and bad for staining basswood, I know it needs a sealer first, but I would like to know peoples opinions and experience first.

Also, a dark bronze or black krylon hammered paint looks like it would be cool, anyone have experience with that?

This thread looked like a good place to start. Thanks in advance!
 
That is a great job to say the least. wow , what a difference. Props.
 
Thanks! I am waiting on some heads (not sure what to use for the 18" bass drum) then I will post pics of it ready to go. For the Sonor faithful maybe they are rolling in their graves. I wanted a complete retro look. In their past Sonor has used Zephyr style lugs in the past and the Pearl ish bass drum legs. Anyway it is supposed to make me happy!
 
I did a chop job on a 12x14" PDP tom, turning it into a 10x14" rack tom.

picture.php

picture.php


When do the first phase of my PDP re-shells, I will be adding this size to the rack toms. I think a 14/16/18/24 Bonzo kit will be nice to pound on. They stand to be a vision of PDP drums that DW never got around to. As a hint of what's to come, any PDP specific parts that can be replaced by DW parts will be changed out, such as tom brackets.
 
Sorry Steve, but you are wrong.

http://tinyurl.com/lt5y3g5

Please pay special attention around 2:00 where he says "the chrome is actually stronger than the steel wool so it's not gonna scratch". And this guy used SOS pads, which I would not do personally. Note that I said FINE steel wool. Nothing too heavy or abrasive. That plus a bath in Metal Rescue should do the trick. If the rust is any heavier than that, then he needs to simply replace the hardware.

I also wanted to emphasize what the guy in the vid said...where pitting of the metal has taken place the rust will return, However, the same folks who make Metal Rescue also make a product called Dry Coat which applies a clear coat to the metal and inhibits the return of rust. With reasonable care, it is possible to keep rust away for years.

Of course, my first preference would be to simply replace the hardware. But he may not want to spend that much money and depending on the degree of rust he may not have to.

Well what this "expert" says,goes contrary to what EVERY other expert on the subject says.Recognized experts and published authors like John Aldridge,Rob Cook,Chet Fazzerano,Mike Curotto,Rick Van Horn,Ron Spagnardi,Harry Cangany and many others who are recognized in their field,say something completey different than Marty.

I used to use OOOO steel wool(which is the finest you can but) many years ago,and I now find lots of fine scratches in my vintage chrome hardware.

So no,I'm NOT wrong.So if you want to follow this guys advice,you go right ahead,but don't tell others to do the same as you and he say,and stick with conventional....PROVEN expert wisdom on the subject.But if you want to follow "Marty of shamrock scooters advice,knock yourself out.

SOS pads???? BTW..I don't see a whole lot of drums being restored ,by some guy working in his garage.Next time...do some research first on the subject of "DRUM RESTORATION AND MAINTENENCE", not how to clean your scooter

STAY AWAY FROM STEEL WOOL....PERIOD..

Steve B
 
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Very nice job! I did a similar restoration on an old set of Super Classics. Actually, it's still a WIP. :) But it's looking pretty good. And the great thing is, if you ever need to replace any of that hardware, Ludwig still makes direct replacements for most of it right here in good ole North Cacalacky.

Have you considered covering up that hole where the tom mount was? I used the hole and bought a Rocker style tom mount. But I've seen people do different things, One guys used a small piece of drum covering which was either a wood grain look or he painted it, I can't recall which. Looked better than a hole.

All of Ludwigs hardware,as well as DW Gretsch and everybody else is imported,and no longer US made.

Steve B.
 
Hey,
I will also post this on a post of its own incase it gets buried.
but to make a long story short. im redoin my kit. The whole thing. I will update my progress as it goes but This is my first time actually doing anything like this.
Heres what I have planned.
  • Complete respray of the drums (mabye the hoops havent decided) plain white with green splatters on it.
  • Reskin all drums with some new heads I plan on purchasing for my birthday
  • New crash cymbal (my current meinl hcs is at a laughable state of destroyed beyond repair)
  • To mount a single tom by the cymbal stand
and since I am a newbie at this and a teen at that I have a budget of roughly 200 to get all the paint mounts and everything. mabye 250 if I push it.
So I have a few questions.
1)How the hell do I do this?
2)How will i mount a tom if my mount has no passthrough for the tom mount (pics below)
3)What paint do I need to use?Will spray paint do? And what should I do if i accidentaly rip some of the wood off while taking of the wrap on the shells? will wood filler do?

I know im asking alot but If anyone can help me it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
-lee
(any suggestions also for equipment I should buy. I play punk rock if that matters I dont think it does that much though)
 

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Unless your hardware is really, really ugly i would advise against painting it.The drums too. What finish is on the set currently? A new wrap will give you the best results and the most choices. Removing an old wrap is pretty easy or if your set has a lacquer finish a new wrap can be applied directly to it. Paint (unless you're a pro with equipment and a shop) is going to make the drums into a Frankenstein of sorts. Or is that what your going for?
 
Unless your hardware is really, really ugly i would advise against painting it.The drums too. What finish is on the set currently? A new wrap will give you the best results and the most choices. Removing an old wrap is pretty easy or if your set has a lacquer finish a new wrap can be applied directly to it. Paint (unless you're a pro with equipment and a shop) is going to make the drums into a Frankenstein of sorts. Or is that what your going for?
Agreed Definitely don't even consider painting your hardware!
 
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